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  #1  
Old 01-31-2016, 05:12 PM
ncologerojr ncologerojr is offline
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Default Shaping Without a Buck?

Does anyone here make one-off parts without a buck? I build custom motorcycles and making a solid foam buck and fsp's for tanks and body/tail sections gets very time consuming. I see some bike builders making very nice parts (tanks, tails, fenders etc.) with a lot of shape just using paper patterns and no buck. I was wondering how you make your panels symmectral? Also what is your pattern making process to help ensure that panels will fit together for welding? Is it all just practice and experience?
Edit: I would guess that you could shape one side and then make contour gauges to use on the opposite side...

Last week I began making this tank without a buck. I made the patterns from poster board and shaped them as I saw in my head. This has saved me about a day of work, but I did struggle with symmetry and panel fitment.





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Last edited by ncologerojr; 01-31-2016 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 01-31-2016, 07:18 PM
SoCalShaper SoCalShaper is offline
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You'll never get perfectly symmetrical parts, but with a gas tank get one side how you want it and then as you shape the other side just eyeball the 2 sides. That's what I used to do, and it's kinda hard to tell if the 2 sides are different unless they are way off.

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Old 01-31-2016, 07:40 PM
AllyBill AllyBill is offline
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I hate making bucks so I've made many panels using the standard eyeball. A wise old boat builder said to me once that if you can't see both sides at once you can work to the nearest half-inch. I usually compromise and make one or two MDF formers for each side so that the panels are symmetrical at those points then if you make both sides using the same patterns and methods you're usually close enough that no one will spot the difference.

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Old 01-31-2016, 09:35 PM
Kidpaint Kidpaint is offline
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Ron covell has a video for making motorcycle tanks. He shows ways to make them both with a buck and without. It's a good video might be worth checking out.
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Old 01-31-2016, 09:56 PM
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Jere Jere is offline
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Here's one way.

Image067.jpg


Image071.jpg

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Old 02-01-2016, 01:08 AM
Resto Rod Race Resto Rod Race is offline
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I would agree with all of the above statements. I rarely make bucks, but always make contour and shape templates. Also use SATAUS 's CAD system (cardboard aid design). And yes it has to look right, always stand back and have a good look from several angles.
First rule of vehicle restoration- NEVER assume the left side is the same as the right!
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Old 02-01-2016, 05:10 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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I'm the same, I have never used a buck, but make paper patterns and profiles from 3mm MDF.
If you are making a template for both sides from the one pattern and everything is marked the same, then you should be able to replicate the Right and Left sides pretty accurately.

And to add to Adam's rule. I have never come across any early vehicles, where both sides are symmetrical.
A few I've been doing lately have been out by more than 10 to 13mm.
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Old 02-01-2016, 08:55 AM
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Default getting them the same

Sorry, I don't use a buck either. Usually the two sides aren't the same anyway. I'm not very good at shaping yet but tend to just eyeball things. My latest project has an in-tank air intake and air filter, so getting both sides the same won't matter at all. I tend to think many bikes have two differently shaped sides, with creative paint and name tags, it just doesn't get noticed.
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Old 02-01-2016, 12:06 PM
ncologerojr ncologerojr is offline
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Thanks for all the responses. They are all helpful and actually make me feel better about the approach that I took this far.

These are the templates that I made. I made markings ahead of time to help shape each side the same and I also added markings wherever I deviated as I was making the first side panel.


Some progress pics of the first panel, but then I forgot to take pics as I went along.





Now that I know I'm on the right track I'm pleased with the results.
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:28 AM
Marc Bourget Marc Bourget is offline
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Hint for larger projects.

Took some one-on-one training with Orlando Cairo and was silently impressed by the long rows of parallel light fixtures running the length of his shop.

Didn't understand the focus on accurate, parallel rows of lights until we started adding reverse-curved portions below the rear quarter windows on a '53 Ferrari that was being converted from a convertible to a Coupe.

Stepping back to see how the light reflected off the length of the body was very helpful in avoiding the approx 1" (25 cm) asymmetry revealed in the photos of the car used as a model.

I guess a portable flourescent fixture could be used on smaller projects like a motorcycle tank.

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