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  #441  
Old 10-31-2016, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
Bob, the laser I use is just a craftsman Model 320.48251. You can get them online for about $40. You can shop any brand but do yourself a favor and get one with a leveling base. It makes it much easier to align the beam.

Attachment 39344

I also use a photography tripod that I have sometimes but it's not a necessity. You can stack up anything that's around to get the height you need then just level the laser and you're all set up. If you look at this picture, you'll see the aluminum ladder against the wall. I set the laser on the step to get a bead on the rear vertical body line because I didn't have enough room to get the tripod back there.

Attachment 39345
Jack, you are a scholar and a gentleman and I won't tell anyone, thanks, off to the computer now to spend some money.
Bob
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  #442  
Old 11-05-2016, 10:45 PM
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I went around the edges of the buck frame with a 45 degree beveled router bit. I cut 1/4" deep on each side leaving 1/4" of contact area in the center. I despise grinding, sanding, and fairing wood. With a 1/4" contact on the edge and both sides beveled it will work fine for right and left sides. It's just a matter of time management.

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One of many subtle changes I'm making on this fender is that I'm softening the dip downward on the top edge. I made this change when I was plotting out the buck frame. I did it in a single cut so now I'm going to take the contoured edge from the original MDF sheet and use it as a guide for making the templates. So the lower edge of this piece represents the upper shape of the fender. I set it up on top of the fender and just taped it down. It won't be needed after this stage of construction.
The dimension I'm showing with the laser should be 2 1/2" to bring the outer surface to vertical. It's now at about 4 3/8". I had to notch the stand at the lower edge in order to get what I needed. Now that that is done it's go time. Next I cut six blanks for the station templates. I am working off of a baseline established by using the only straight line in the horizontal plane; the bolt holes for the body side moldings. About an inch below that will be a parting line. Everything above that line will be welded to the body. Below that line will be a removable skirt. So the templates all will be marked with this line as a starting point.
I used a divider to approximate the rough shape, cut there, then trim and sand to get the final shape. It takes time and this fender has some dents and creases that have to be ignored in the process. There are also parts of this that I'm not going to elaborate on just to avoid confusion. This panel will cross over the buck in front and there's a lot of calculating involved. My intent here is to offer some guidance for the new guys and I don't want this to appear to be an overly complicated task. Between this thread and the Covell fender buck video, anyone at any skill level should be able to built a serviceable buck.

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  #443  
Old 11-05-2016, 11:15 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I have all six templates roughed in. I did some finish sanding and then used the laser to trim the ends. This is how to get the width correct.
Next just lay them out on some MDF and cut the stations out. A note here; if you are going to use any part of the buck to do hammer forming or flow forming, do not use MDF in that area. It doesn't take shock well at all. It will fracture and disintegrate.You even have to be careful threading deck screws into it, they will pull the threads right out. I'll cover how to avoid the thread stripping problem when I get to that point.

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Some more finish work. Sanding routing , and checking fit. This station will sit on a riser that will represent the amount of gap produced by the cross over.

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  #444  
Old 11-06-2016, 04:20 AM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Proving very interesting how you are going about building this buck and the comments on the MDF in this situation.
Thanks for passing this on.
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  #445  
Old 11-06-2016, 06:54 AM
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Nice Buck Jack,

I am a Cabinet Maker, Shop Fitter and work with MDF a lot and I can't wait to see you how you go about smacking it with a Hammer.
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  #446  
Old 11-06-2016, 11:27 AM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I won't be "smacking with a hammer" .. I'm not doing any hammer forming on this panel.
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  #447  
Old 11-12-2016, 02:21 PM
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I have all six stations roughed in. Some are very narrow at the top. I wanted to put holes near the top and bottom for clamps but I'm not sure I'll be able to. I still need to smooth out the shapes on the sander and check the flow but I ran out of time for now. I might be able to get some more done later tonight.

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  #448  
Old 11-12-2016, 09:41 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I got all six stations fair and and beveled the edges and they look good. It was a more difficult task to make them for a modified panel than it would have been to make an exact duplicate of the original. Some areas on the rear stations beginning with #4 are "created". Drawn out freehand and cut to shape. As I progressed with #5 and #6 I found that flow wasn't what I wanted. I had to scrap #5 and start over. I missed on #6 also but I was high so I could save it by sanding off the extra material.

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I check the shape with a piece of plastic 1/4 round base molding used for home trim work. I prefer it to the wood lattice strips because it's a little heavier and will sag across the stations under its own weight. Another plus is that since it's plastic, its rigidity , or lack of it, is consistent through its length. With the wood lattice strips, if the grain of the wood crosses through where it was cut there will be a slight difference in density and strength in that area and it won't flex as much as the rest of it will. It might seem like splitting hairs here but if you are spending all this time trying to get it right and your gaging tools are faulty, you will be fine tuning your buck to a flawed shape and you'll have problems when you start checking your panels against it. You don't need expensive sweeps if you can't justify the time and expense but you need to be careful about alternative measures.

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I also started making the partial stations at the rear. There will be a tail light inset along the upper half of the rear edge and the bumper will wrap around the side along the lower half. There will be about a 4" area between the two that will be sheet metal. I'm going to shape this panel fully in steel then cut out the tail light and bumper area. I'll use the area that I cut out for the tail light to make a mold for the tail light lense.

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Last edited by Jack 1957; 11-12-2016 at 10:00 PM.
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  #449  
Old 11-13-2016, 07:46 AM
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Nice work. Carefully planned and nicely executed. Keep posting.
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  #450  
Old 11-15-2016, 07:45 PM
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I'm going to start drilling and pinning the stations next. On this buck since it will be used to make both the right and left fenders, I will need to be able to disassemble it and put it back together on the reverse side. I'll be inserting dowel rod into the screw holes for a couple reasons. First, for positive location on both sides and second, to avoid running screws directly into the MDF. The dowels will "squish" rather than crack when using screws

First I marked the spots where I need to drill the 5/16" holes for the dowels.


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Since this buck is so big I won't be able to use the drill press and I need to make sure the holes are perpendicular to the surface. I just got a scrap of 2 x 4 and drilled a 5/16 hole in it to use as a drill guide.

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Next just clamp the guide to the buck and drill through the MDF

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After drilling all the holes in the buck, clamp the stations on one at a time and drill through the holes into the station about 1" deep.

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