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  #11  
Old 06-20-2019, 11:36 AM
verbos verbos is offline
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Originally Posted by heinke View Post
Here's a suggestion for you: make an "on chassis" buck and incorporate the support structures within it. Here's an example: http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showp...1&postcount=68

The advantages of this method is that it says a bunch of garage space and you know exactly where the body skins will mount so you can plan for that as you are figuring out where to put the weld seams. In addition you'll know exactly where the panels need to wrap around support tubes.

It's possible and doable to design buck stations via "lofting" like Mike did on his buck: http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showp...1&postcount=31
but it's a very time consuming way to go about it, especially for a car like a Cobra where there's lots of pictures available off the Internet. I'd suggest you go the 3D modeling route and have buck stations CNC cut. Contact Dan Platnik ( dan.palat@gmail.com ) and ask for samples of various cars he's modeled only from pictures. I think you'll be impressed.

Thank you very much Joel.
The on chassis buck with tubing looks good. I will probably use it. I try to contact Dan and if it is possible to get the model this will be the way to go.
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Last edited by verbos; 06-25-2019 at 06:23 AM.
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  #12  
Old 06-25-2019, 09:53 AM
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Scrap maker Scrap maker is offline
MetalShaper of the Month September 2015
 
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Default my thoughts

Watching this thread. .
Some of the questions from his first thread was what alloy to use?
I used 3003 .063 on most everything. Some .050 5052 on door panels etc that required minimale shaping.
Welding ...........I know gas is the norm. Heavy learning curve. I tig welded mine and in 5k miles is still crack free. Get the shape as good as possible. Tack/dolly etc.......for ever.
I welded the face and back. Ground the face smooth and left the back proud.
I'm self taught and have had metal in my hands for years. Trailers,three chop tops and small patch panels. Though no real shaping/design.
I have #2 car about ready for primer.
Tools.......all modified harbor freight stuff and a stump.
Buck, I built it on a rolling chassis out of 1/4" rod/plywood /cardboard/drywall mud.whatever..........
My question for the thread starter is what is your back ground and experience?
Ray
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  #13  
Old 06-25-2019, 11:15 AM
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heinke heinke is offline
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Default 3D modeling for station buck

Quote:
Originally Posted by verbos
You have used some already made 3D model and let the Dan make the modifications, right?
What dimensions I need so I can also use some general Cobra 3D model which will fit with FFR frame. Is it enough to have just few basic dimensions like length, width and maybe vertical/horizontal axles position (maybe something else..?) or do I need to have detailed measurements of every curvature change in FFR body? What did you have to send to Dan for model changes?
I am asking because if I need just few dimensions maybe someone will be willing to help and send me the measurements and I will be able to make the buck even without the access to the FFR car.

Best wishes and really appreciate your help,
Martin
Martin asked this very good question in a PM. I'm answering here as I think the question and answer will be a benefit to other people who are thinking about or doing a similar project.

Firstly, yes I purchased an existing model of Miura SV as a start and we altered it for the specifics of my project. In hindsight, we could have started from scratch to create the 3D model and I believe we'd have ended up in the same place. I say this because the model I purchased had several flaws in it that needed to be fixed (e.g. wheel opening shape, bumper shapes, etc.) and we made changes to in all dimensions of the model such that very little, if any, of the original model made it through to the final model. My Miura is 105% size of original thus the difference in dimensions.

Secondly (and the most important), you will need measurements for items that you think will have a "fixed position" or "fixed shape" in your "to be" project car. For example, the wheels and tires. So you'll need measurements for wheel base, track, and tire size. Things like wheel openings in the body can be visually modeled around the tires so you shouldn't need measurements for them.

I'm using a C4 Corvette windshield, cowl, door frames, and side glass in my Miura. These have a fixed position and/or shape so I needed to provide detailed measurements to Dan for use in the model. I then used the model to tell me the length of the doors and angle/shape of rear edge. The door hinge position is fixed (given my use of C4 cowl) so I will be cutting off and reshaping the door frames at the rear edge based on the visual look and measurements from the model.

So to come up with a list of what measurements you will need, mentally go through all the areas of your "to be" car and decided what items have fixed position or shape. For example, windshield. I assume you'll use a "standard" Cobra windshield frame and glass. The FFR chassis likely includes windshield mounts that have a fixed position. Relative measurements from front wheel centerline should work for this. So you'll need to know the horizontal distance between front wheel centerline and where the windshield post goes through the body. Likewise, you'll need the vertical distance from front wheel centerline to the same point.

For things like hood and trunk opening position and shape, it's your call on how closely you want to follow those items from FFR. For example, the FFR Cobra has been known to have what's called a "perky butt" when compared to original Cobra (FFR may of fixed this in their latest revision but it's been there for a decade worth of cars). I wouldn't want this perky butt so I would elect to make my car with same look as original in that aspect. If you have the skill to fabricate a whole aluminum car body, you certainly will be able to position and make trunk hinges.

The 3D model should give you the measurements for everything else. For example, front end "grill" opening. You should be able to determine this visually from the model by what looks right and so no measurements needed prior to modeling. I believe the grill opening is different shape on 289 Cobra body style versus 427. Just tell Dan what you want or better yet provide pics you can source from Internet to guide the modeling process.

My experience with Dan is that you will iterate through the modeling process. He will provide you both "snapshots" and dynamic viewer (you can scale, zoom, rotate, measure, etc.) views and you provide him feedback. He makes changes to model for your review. This repeats till you're satisfied with model. Once the 3D model is finalized (i.e. you're satisfied you like it), only then does the work for station buck slicing start.

I hope this helps!
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  #14  
Old 06-26-2019, 01:55 AM
Maxakarudy Maxakarudy is offline
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Some good info here.....https://www.chuckcobra.com/
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  #15  
Old 06-26-2019, 07:15 AM
verbos verbos is offline
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Originally Posted by Scrap maker View Post
My question for the thread starter is what is your back ground and experience?
Ray
I don't have prior experience with metal shaping but I don't mind to spend several years learning.

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Originally Posted by heinke View Post
I hope this helps!
Thank you Joel now I have better idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxakarudy View Post
Some good info here.....https://www.chuckcobra.com/
It looks great but I have to say I don't want pay $600 just for the drawings which would have to be modified anyway.
Do you have any experience with SQUIRT team? Do their models correspond to the originals?
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