#61
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Ferrari 166 Replica Project
Good informative progress Bill, learning more each post.
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John S. E _________________________________________________ Torque is nothing, unless you can get it to the road. |
#62
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Hi Bill very interesting project with great results.
Just a note on bending ali tube for parts like the grille surround; have you tried softening (annealing) the metal before working it? I bend handles for film studio trolleys out of thick wall 1" tube using a hand bender with radius dies and this works great for me as it virtually eliminates spring back and bends real easy. Perhaps try heating the tube after drawing a couple of lines with a sharpie - when the lines burn away, the ali's ready. The tube will age harden somewhat down the line. For the tight bends, you also might consider getting a couple of hand benders the refrigeration guys use for copper tube. these can often b found cheap in pawn shops etc. Best of luck.
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Manny Remember that the best of men, are only men at best. |
#63
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Ferrari 166MM images
Bill,
I found a few images that may (Or may not) help your project.... You project is coming right along very nicely.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#64
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Manny, Thanks for the tip. I hadn't heard that before and will try it.
Kent, as usual, outstandingly helpful! That first photo clears up a question I've had about the "inner" footwell panels.
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Bill Longyard Winston-Salem, NC |
#65
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In the top two 166 fotos we have six different details of the nose/hood construction.
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Tim Freeman |
#66
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I noticed that too. Everyone of those cars differs slightly. Is it just because they were all handmade or are there other reasons for that?
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Chris (trying to be the best me I can be) |
#67
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Quote:
Also, two of them, s/n 008 and 010, were raced heavily as part of the '49 Ferrari Factory Team, and both have the added Le Mans louvers in the center of the hoods. One of these two cars was rebodied someplace in Italy in 1984, and the other was heavily wrecked both front and rear and then rolled over during its racing career and was very carefully restored in 1983, using information gained from 9 other 166 Barchettas. Other than that I cannot think of why there would be so many differences.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. Last edited by crystallographic; 10-08-2017 at 04:21 PM. |
#68
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I've been back on the 166 project for a couple of weeks now and am working on the Superleggera skeleton. I've learned some important lessons about tube bending that I want to share.
My research suggests that Touring bent their tubing by using a variety of form blocks, hammering it down progressively into the open jaws of, perhaps, a vice, and by inserting the end of the tube into a hole drilled in a roof support post. I didn't want to make form blocks and wanted a method that I felt would be faster, and give "smoother" results. I have had indifferent success with my Harbor Freight POS tube roller since I first bought it about 10 years ago. It would curl tubes into a spiral as much as it would bend them. Once I modified it (see earlier post) I was able to get good bends with minimal curling, so proceeded to make the tubes for the car. I learned an important lesson on using a tube roller which is.... YOU MUST bend you gentlest curves FIRST and then work towards your most acute curves. If you look in the first photo you'll see the gentlest curve going all the way from the left, to the big bend on the right. I first tried to make the tube by doing the most acute bend, but found that the tube roller wouldn't go all the way up to the bend when I went to put in the gentlest curve. It would stop about 5" short of it. I had one tube (the upper boot tube) that required no less than 5 different bends in a 40" span PER SIDE (10 total). I cut the tube 52" and rolled in the entire length of the tube the gentlest curve, and then began "mapping" each of the next curves slightly overlapping each into the areas besides it. The results were absolutely spot on and only took about 30 minutes. The HF tube roller works well if modified. I used SWAG OFF ROAD dies. The tubes are inset into notches I cut in the buck stations. I first used a 1/2" auger bit to make a hole, and then a small saw to further open it. The cockpit hoop which I made last summer, before I shut down to write Book 7 in the Barton series, had three minor kinks in it which I was worried would show through when I do the final skin wrapping. I made a special tool to remove the kinks, and it worked very well. The tool was made from a heavy-wall piece of tube whose inside diameter closely matches the outside diameter of the cockpit hoop. I cut a length of the tube, cut that length in half, and then welded it to a stout bolt long enough for me to grip. I used a sander to round all the edges of the pipe piece. To remove the kinks, I heated them up to bright orange with my torch, and then placed the tool over it which I struck repeatedly with a hammer. I rotated the tool around the tubing as I went. It took about two heating to remove the kinks from each of the tubes.
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Bill Longyard Winston-Salem, NC Last edited by longyard; 05-28-2018 at 02:13 PM. |
#69
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Good stuff Bill.
Thanks. |
#70
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Top work Bill; I love the straightening tool!
Thank you for showing us the details; so much more interesting that just some photos of a finished product, Cheers Charlie
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Why does dust stick to everything, but nothing sticks to dust? |
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