#1
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Simple brazed tank
So to start learning I'm working on a very simple gas tank with very simple construction using brazed lap joints and mostly just simple forming instead of shaping. Also using it as an excuse to increase my brazing skill. I got the outside shell fitted and the small 1/8 inch flange hammered down on the back plate and brazed up. Didn't take any pictures but it didn't turn out great, gap kept opening up and by the time I stopped there was braze already filling the now wide gap so there wasn't much I could do. Need to work out better clamping. I'm working on rolling the edge of the side plate over to meet up with the tank shell. I rolled the edge of the tank shell some so that I split the round between the two pieces. I have just been working the edge over with a hammer and dolly/piece of pipe/whatever fits the curve I want. This works ok but I'm having trouble getting the corners shrunk enough and maintaining an accurate outline. Is there some specific techniques or tips for turning an edge around a corner with basic hand tools, or is it just a matter of getting more skill with the hammer. Trying to hold the dolly while hammering on it makes my hands feel much older than they should.
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Matt |
#2
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Quote:
Might want to clamp your panel down so you can gather up the metal around the corner with your body hammer. A dab of heat helps keep the metal soft so it goes into place accurately and easily. Smoke the workbench if need be. Adds character and the homey lived-in look. For holding lap seams tight I recommend #4 sheetmetal screws. Under drill the hole dia by .010 and crank them in. Hex head is fine. Don't buy cheap screws, tho. Buy good ones - or you will twist off the heads, snap the shanks, rub off the threads ..... Then tack braze in between. Remove screws, and tack those hole locs. Artful brazing between tacks - next. ... Without melting previous tacks, or .... sproingg!!! Success and Joy,
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#3
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Thanks for the input. I slowed myself down and am going to spend a little time building a really nice buck and make some good patterns. Then take another stab. I'm thinking I might use 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF to build a hammer form of sorts to get the edges tipped easier. I had the thought last night of riveting the lap joints and then brazing or soldering eventually as a sealer.
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Matt |
#4
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It's never simple.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#5
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I use MDF quite a bit for hammerforms for alloy. Holds up pretty well with a few coats of moisture cure floor finish, or if you have it to hand, 2 pack epoxy.
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Richard "I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers) Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view |
#6
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Good to know about finishing the MDF for hammerforms. I was thinking even a coat or two of regular polyurethane would probably keep it together significantly better. A coat of two part epoxy should work really well though
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Matt |
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