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  #611  
Old 01-16-2017, 04:37 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Many thanks for the suggestions. Looking at the Jag, Mini and even Land Rover ones to try and find a complete setup.
Seems the best and most affordable way to go.
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  #612  
Old 01-16-2017, 02:40 PM
James. V. D. W James. V. D. W is offline
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You can also have a look at BMW E34 or E39. It has a nice self contained unit.
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  #613  
Old 02-01-2017, 11:56 PM
timetolook timetolook is offline
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Wow, what a fantastic build, thread and write up.
Probably one of the best threads I've read...

Good luck with the rest of the build

Mario
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  #614  
Old 02-02-2017, 04:50 AM
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Many thanks Mario. Should be another update this weekend.
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  #615  
Old 02-04-2017, 10:02 PM
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I don't actually have a photo of my donor dash as it had been partially pulled apart for some reason after it was written off. So here is a picture of what I hope to fit, but mirror image, of a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. No classic gauges on this build as going for the 1948 outside but 2008 inside theme to keep things cohesive.


The underside has all the ducting but wont actually fit in due to the shape of the cowl and that the defrost is at the wrong end of the dash.


With my wife armed with the heat gun and me using a stiff spatula, was able to break the plastic welds holding this to the top half.


Cutout just want I needed and then shaped it to fit under the cowl. Will have to make a new top cover for it to direct the airflow.


As the cowl is curved, shaped up some thin sheet to match.


Testing to see how it was coming along. Just good bit of practise on the English Wheel.


Used a trick Peter Tommasini taught me and tipped the fold on the wheel


Run sealer under it before adding the rivets as well to hold it in place.


That should do the trick


Fitted in under the cowl matching the curve. This has the four outlets for the cabin heat and A/C. One each side of the SatNav/Media screen and the other two to go to each end of the dash.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 08-13-2017 at 03:35 PM.
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  #616  
Old 02-05-2017, 04:37 AM
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Cardboard template made of the area from the A pillars to the windscreen flange. Now to work out how much to cut off the top of the dash!


Tape to mark where to cut with the jigsaw and a fine tooth metal cutting blade. Can see about half of it will be gone which will suit the Willys better too I think.


Fitted the lower half first which just screwed straight into the tubular frames mounts without modification.


Test fitting the top half. I had cut the other side of the tape line to give plenty of room for exact trimming


Now we are getting somewhere. The dash is low at the ends and high in the middle compared to the Willys windscreen frame. When I worked out how much to section the body, it was based on this compromise. Once I add support back using the top part of the original Willys dash underneath this, it should even out.


Dash cluster laid in after only one trim to one of the mounting tabs.


The leather covered hood over the dash cluster just sitting there.


Looking better than I expected actually and as good as I hoped! Will tie in even more once the rest of the donor interior is fitted as well.


Can see it needs quite a bit taken off. Will leave that until later one I know exactly where the inside trim will sit.
Anyone know of a way to get those two round impressions left in the leather during storage? Hoping they would correct themselves but did not after even a couple of months.


This is a piece of the original windscreen gasket. The left side sat over the flange in the background of the picture and the glass in the wider channel behind. The glass is actually bigger than the hole around the inside of the flange! That is why they are fitted from the inside out. Does anyone know of a good profile that just has the glass sitting directly on top of the flange but is still short enough to fit inside the body recess? Would need a centre divider gasket as well separately.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 08-13-2017 at 03:43 PM.
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  #617  
Old 02-05-2017, 06:54 AM
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i know a very good widow fitter that does custom glass if you want his number i'll be happy to forward it on! he's in Melbourne, based in dandy but he is around moorabbin area most days. i'm sure he could help...

looking good though Marcus
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  #618  
Old 02-05-2017, 07:10 AM
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Default a coupla suggestions

Marcus beautiful work! I have had good luck with ordinary sunlight on a hot day, laying soft padded interior items outside. Heating seems to allow the compressed areas to relax. As far as the glass rubber, with an extended opening a suggestion would be to cut your glass to overlap the flange to within 3-4 mm of the window opening on all sides, urethane the glass in place. Then take push in window trim welt to finish off. Two advantages to this: Your glass, being bonded to the vehicle body flange with the urethane would become a structural support to your cab integrity, and the finish welt, being available cut to length would close the edges with only a hard to detect seam at the bottom center. If urethaned with a finger tip the seam would be virtually undetectable. Upon casual glance the welting would look quite original. *remember free advice is worth it's price* LOL Best of Luck! Gary This company services glass rubber and push in welt:http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/sh...D=40454&pom=0#
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  #619  
Old 02-05-2017, 07:40 AM
John Francis John Francis is offline
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There are many seal profiles available, some "factory" others universal. Most that mount the glass flush have a locking strip (self locking or separate). See links below for styles and dimensions.

http://www.ozautomoulds.com.au/c/27/h-moulds-rubber

http://d163axztg8am2h.cloudfront.net...82ec67c159.pdf

ps: Your project is coming along very nice !
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  #620  
Old 02-06-2017, 02:48 AM
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Many thanks to all on the leads to the window moulding.
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