#1321
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GrandWillys Project
Nice work, Marcus, as always.
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John S. E _________________________________________________ Torque is nothing, unless you can get it to the road. |
#1322
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Thank you John.
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I did a write up on it here. http://willyshotrod.com/tools/Eastwo...ollerPage1.htm
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#1323
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Marcus thank you for the link.
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Mark |
#1324
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While I had the grille out, I stripped the rest of the front clip apart as well so I could come up with a better way of preserving the bare metal. The lanolin I have been using was good enough for storage, but not if I want to run for a few months on the road. Doing some research I saw that many were using phosphoric acid to de-rust, clean and preserve bare steel. I'm using Ranex Rustbuster by Bondall which I picked up at Bunnings. This also is phosphoric acid based. This is what it looks like after first spraying it on and keeping a thin coat wet for 20 minutes before wiping it off with a dry cloth. I had some consistency problems and got a chalky appearance in places. It does take some technique to keep a thin even coat. Leaving it too thick left it feeling like sandpaper. Re-wetting it with more acid and using steel wool and then wiping with a cloth got rid of any build-up, especially if there was a run and it dried, it would be black and sticky. Some just apply it using a cloth soaked with the acid and have good results. It shows all the weld lines up too. Not sure why the weld has reacted differently to the acid etch? I actually tried some lanolin over it and it looked far more even after applying it. This was my test piece and shows how it cleans and turns the rust black as it turns it into iron phosphate. Using steel wool while wet really helps clean it even more so. This is my outside workbench I have topped with ceramic tiles. Discoloured over the years with grinding dust that has rusted onto the surface. It would not clean off with scrubbing, but where some of the acid has spilt, you can see the clean grey tiles underneath again. I cleaned the whole bench with it after this as it was listed as one of its uses. https://www.bondall.com/ranex-rustbuster/ To give an extra protection layer, and make the finish after acid treatment better, I am using Ankor Wax which is very popular with the patina crowd. I bought it directly from the importers. http://busnbug.com/sb_clients/busnbu..._ankor_wax.cfm I tried a different way of applying it to normal. I wanted to use a foam brush but was out of them. So used a normal paintbrush but then made the coat even by running over it with a dry foam roller. Just kept working it until it was clear and even. The left side is just after applying it and the right side after running the roller over it straight away to remove the brush marks. I'm leaving it like this and left it to dry for 3-4 days. Normally they recommend buffing it to get a satin or even a gloss finish from it. Water will bead on it and can be removed before painting just using kerosene. Re-apply when the water stops beading, just like a polish. In storage, up to 2 years before needing to reapply.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#1325
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This continues to be an amazing project. Just for curiosity, why didn't you just use epoxy primer. Are you thinking you're going to have to work the metal more?
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#1326
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Lots of people keep telling me to run with no paint to show the metal work as they say it is a shame to cover it with paint. Guess they will be able to see it warts and all this way. I'm not keen to leave it like that as too impractical, but thought it was a good idea for a short time over a summer season to iron out any issues before paint.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#1327
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If you can find a phosphoric acid that has zinc then you will be much better off. A few applications will give you a mildly corrosion resitistive coating. It won't survive real wetness for long but will definitely not flash rust and is an excellent foundation for paints and primers. Excellent to powder coat over too. It leaves you with a zinc phosphate layer. I have one spot on a car that I did many (10 or 15) applications on under a battery tray. 30 years on it's only beginning to show some flash rust. It never did get any other coating. I believe that many applications is really Parkerizing it.
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Ray R |
#1328
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Quote:
30-60% Phosphoric acid, 0-10% Ferrous Sulphate, non harmful ingredients including water for the remainder. I had quite a few Australians recommend this to me to use in this situation as they have done so for years with good results. I have noticed that during the night some condensation droplets landed on the valve covers, which have been treated with it but nothing else, and it gave that white chalky appearance, but no rust at least. Least it would have converted any rust that was there and the wax will seal it from there.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#1329
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Look at 2 products ....Boeshield T9 or Rust Prevention Magic (RPM)
In Australia try Rocol rust shield from Blackwoods
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It is "Know-How" which distinguishes the USEFUL Person from the "USELESS" Books and Men can give you "Know-How" and Practice gives you SKILL. Last edited by ossietim; 05-18-2020 at 07:45 PM. |
#1330
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Thanks mate.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
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