1949 Cadillac Roadster Build

[Jack 1957]

Originally Posted by pplace

... what are you doing for lenses for the tail lights? Molding your own as well?

I have some 3/16" transparent red plexiglass to make them from. I need to make a quicky mold. They are simetrical so I'll only need one mold. I don't think I'll mess with them right now. I need to wrap up the major fabricating first. I usually have 2 or 3 different things going on at one time, a large job and a couple small ones. If I start getting burned out on the large job I take a day off and work on a small job. The lights are on the small job list.

[Oldnek]

That Bar is Bloody Beautiful, Jack!
Love your progress and your delivery on these ideas and designs.

[123pugsy]

Originally Posted by Jack 1957

If I get up close and know where to look I can see the welds. The fill rod is slightly yellower than the 430. It isn't noticable overall, though. Nothing to worry about.

Excellent.

[Steve Hamilton]

Jack

You managed to pull it off. When you started with the tube and plate design, i thought this could be a real struggle.

you showed use that with caution and determination a fantastic result is possible!!!!

Steve

[Mario428]

Originally Posted by Jack 1957

I set up the bumper to try to restore the original curve. I used a ratchet binder on the mounting plates to put tension on it and help draw it inward while I welded 1" long stitches spaced 1" apart. it took a couple test fits to get it where I wanted it. I welded along the upper edge also and got it to fit properly.


Attachment 52089

Glad it worked out for you Jack, you do some awesome work, thanks again for sharing

[Jack 1957]

Moving on, I'm going to start the roof frame next. I have some 6061 stock left from a previous job so I'm going to use that up. This would be easier with a softer alloy but I need to get some of this stuff off the shelves. The top plate is T6511 and the square tube is T6. It will all have to be annealed. T6 is pretty easy to work with in the backyard shop. Annealing some alloys is a very precise process, but T6 can be annealed without sophisticated equipment

You'll need a torch with a rosebud tip, a Sharpie, and a bucket of water. That's it! I am also using a no touch thermometer for a little more accuracy but I'll show you how to get er done without it. This, like most of what I do, is not written on stone tablets. It's what I've learned over the years and I know that it works.
First, use the Sharpie marker to lay down some random marks along the length of the workpiece. Then use the torch with acetylene only to lay down a layer of soot. When that's done heat the piece evenly with the torch set at a neutral flame. I didn't do this piece all at one time. I did this one in 4 different sections. It would be too difficult to hold even temperature through the whole length if I tried to do it all at once.

The first thing you'll see is the soot burning off. I don't really soot these to use it as a temerature indicator. I use soot because the no touch thermometer doesn't always read shiney surfaces accurately. The soot burns off and leaves the surface darker and dull.

When the soot is gone watch for the Sharpie marks to start disappearing. As the temperature increases the marks will be almost gone. At this point it's probably around 550 or 600 degrees. I want to be around 600 to 700 degrees. At this point I start using the no touch thermometer but you don't really have to have one. Once the material is over 600, it will start taking on a very slightly yellowish tint. That's enough to get the job done. You are somewhere between 600 anf 700 degrees. I use a soaking wet rag to quickly quench, then move on to the next section.
Keep in mind that this is a fairly thick panel. It's 3/8" thick. I have more wiggle room and work time than if I were working with thin sheet. Also, I was heating the piece from the top and bottom surfaces to be sure the heat was through and through. (Not needed with thin sheet.)





The piece will sag and droop from the heat but don't worry about it. After quenching, this stuff will shape and bend like Play Doh. I took this warped bent piece over to the bench and bent it straight by hand in less than 5 minutes.





The front leading edge of the windsield frame has a sligth curve fore and aft that duplicates the curve of the windshield I need to put that in on the upper plate so I edge wheeled the plate until I got the same curve as the windshield frame. This stuff is so soft now that it shapes very quickly. Even as thick as it is. This only took about 15 minutes to wheel.









When I put the epoxy primer on the windshield frame, I painted over my center line mark so I had to use use the laser to find it again. I lined the laser up to a mark in front and behind the windshield (circled) then marked the center. I was still able to bend the plate by hand so I started doing the vertical shape next. It might have work hardened a little but not nearly back to its original strength. The long curve in the middle was beant by hand. Then I clamped the plate to the windshield frame and used C clamps and a dead blow mallet to bring the tighter curves in on the ends. I would tighten the C clamps on the ends to draw the plate down the bump it with the mallet to "set" the bends. A little at a time until I had what I needed. There will be some springback but there will also be a gap needed for the weatherstrip. I can do some adjusting later.

I reheated the ends with the torch to let the aluminum relax in its present shape. When it cooled off, I released the clamps and trimmed the ends off. It now sets in place with no gaps. T6 will regain most of its hardness over time. It starts within a few hours of annealing. That's why I anneal only what I'll be using at the moment, piece by piece.

[Kerry Pinkerton]

Jack, this is nothing short of a master level class! I can't tell you how much I've learned from this thread.

[123pugsy]

Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton

Jack, this is nothing short of a master level class! I can't tell you how much I've learned from this thread.

X2, who woulda thunk to bend (stretch) a bar the hard way on the wheel?

[John Buchtenkirch]

Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton

Jack, this is nothing short of a master level class! I can't tell you how much I've learned from this thread.

Yes………. and the most humbling thing is his work seems to be accomplished with mostly entry level equipment, no multi thousand dollar power hammers, Eckolds or Pullmaxes. It makes me happy to see a career body man doing such great work, a trade that many people seem to look down on as being a bunch of Bondo slinging mutts . ~ John Buchtenkirch

[Jack 1957]

Originally Posted by John Buchtenkirch

.... a trade that many people seem to look down on as being a bunch of Bondo slinging mutts . ~ John Buchtenkirch

If they knew what it takes to replace a front lower rail or the rear torque box, they'd think differently.