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  #351  
Old 07-12-2016, 05:23 AM
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123pugsy 123pugsy is offline
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Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
The inner rear panel didn't need much shaping. I just tipped the flange and stepped the rear edge. The rear edge will be lapped, plug welded and finished with seam sealer.

Attachment 37963

Attachment 37964

Attachment 37965
Very nice Jack.
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  #352  
Old 07-12-2016, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank.de.Kleuver View Post
Good idear to nodge the buck. I'm planning a 3d file of the bug and was way too overcomplicating the design. Just nodging by hand when you need sound way better.

Greetings,

Frank
This buck was built to be a throw away. Scrap wood laying around mostly. I will be building the rear fender buck when I'm done with this part. That will be a much more versitile buck. One reversable buck for both rear fenders.
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  #353  
Old 07-14-2016, 05:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank.de.Kleuver View Post
Sure,

But they are on MM. I hope this is allowed. Otherwise I'll try to upload it.

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/album.php?albumid=742
http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12440

Greetings,

Frank
Thanks for that Frank.
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  #354  
Old 07-17-2016, 02:15 PM
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I started making the inner framework for the deck lid today. I didn't have much time but I got some work done. I started with the forward corners where the hinges will mount. I made a template of the seal area plus the contour along the front and side edges. I started roughing the right side.

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  #355  
Old 07-18-2016, 10:44 AM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
This buck was built to be a throw away. Scrap wood laying around mostly. I will be building the rear fender buck when I'm done with this part. That will be a much more versitile buck. One reversable buck for both rear fenders.
You’ve built a buck I’d have no trouble using….. plenty of room between stations to view panel fit up to the edges of the stations. People that have blocked out auto body plastic for several years develop a good sense of panel flow and realize that you don’t need a lot of closely spaced stations unless there’s a lot of changes or detail work going on in the panel. I’m not saying that having blocked out Bondo is an absolute must to shape a panel correctly but after spending years doing it you do develop a good sense of true panel flow or what body men call straight. ~ John Buchtenkirch
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  #356  
Old 07-18-2016, 11:19 AM
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I think you're right, John. This isn't a complex shape. Its difficult to handle because it's so large but there's enough stations to tell me if I'm symmetrical and smooth. Now, the rear fenders... That's a different story.
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  #357  
Old 07-19-2016, 09:36 PM
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I didn't like the corner piece I started making. Too many parts. I decided to incorporate the corners into the side rails so I whipped up a template and started making the right side.

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  #358  
Old 07-19-2016, 09:40 PM
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I tipped the edges to get a 3/4" drop plus a flange to hem the skin to. After those were done the rail was nearly flat compared to the contour of the deck side panels.

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  #359  
Old 07-19-2016, 09:53 PM
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I used the stretcher on both edges of the rail to match the shape to the contour of the weather seal lip on the gutter.

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After I got the contour right I tipped the last flanges. The outboard flange is where the skin will attach. The dropped center area will be against the weather seal.

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That's as far as I got tonight

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  #360  
Old 07-20-2016, 04:25 AM
Larry4406 Larry4406 is offline
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Nice tutorial!
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