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  #11  
Old 01-03-2010, 10:01 PM
slantback37 slantback37 is offline
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That is why I rounded the chisel over. So it wouldn't cut threw. It hasn't yet.
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  #12  
Old 01-04-2010, 01:21 AM
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Default Pre stretch

What would be the steps of Pre-stretching a piece before beading in this way? I only have hand tools.
Aloha,
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  #13  
Old 01-04-2010, 06:33 AM
slantback37 slantback37 is offline
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I wish I knew that also. i looked at the front floor panels, and they looked like some sort of press was used. All I had was some 3/4" plywood that I put the template on and routed out. Looking at some of the other stuff that these guys are making.. It shows the talent they have at there art. Now what about us little guys??
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:43 AM
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If all you have is hand tools and you want to stretch the metal so you minimize the pulling of metal in from the sides you would use a hammer and dolly. When you hit a piece of metal with a hard surface, steel hammer, and the metal is backed up with a hard surface, steel dolly, the metal between the two surfaces stretches. You can mark out where your beads will be and start hitting the metal with overlapping blows along the bead line. How much you stretch the metal depend on the gauge of the metal, type of metal and the shape and height of the bead you are trying to make. I don't know of any way to tell you how much to pre stretch other than trial and error.

Even with pre stretching the metal you are going to get some distortion in the panel.
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  #15  
Old 01-04-2010, 05:40 PM
slantback37 slantback37 is offline
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I know that so far it is working for me with the rounded over cold chisel. i can always put a edge back on it when I am done with it. I don't think I need the beads all that deep. Just enough to make it a more rigid panel.

I wish I had the skill of you guys. It would make my ideas for this car so much more easier. I could just as easy make my rear seat out of sheet aluminum than the plywood that I am going to use. Just another project that I have planned for the winter. Al
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:05 PM
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Hi Joe,
Thanks for the info, It's kinda like David's DVD the part about shaping low crown panel with a hammer all about streching. I understand about all the variables that go into knowing how much to pre-stretch, so all we can do is try it and see how it comes out, practice, practice, practice... well that's how I learn anyway by doing it. Thanks again...

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  #17  
Old 01-04-2010, 10:24 PM
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Wade, that is the only way to learn. If you don't try and fail you will never learn. There are no magic machines or tools that will make you a metal shaper over night. You can learn a lot by trying to save some of the scrap you make.
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  #18  
Old 01-07-2010, 09:58 PM
slantback37 slantback37 is offline
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Joe. For a beginner.. Is it better to make a form out of wood first.. Then form the sheetmetal to the wood??
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  #19  
Old 01-07-2010, 11:10 PM
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Al, have you done anything to get the bow out of the floor panel that you already made? What gauge of metal are you using? Johnny's explanation of how he straightened his panel is a good way to do it. A shaped piece that matches the shape of the bead will do a better job than the chisel. I don't think you can control the chisel as well as you can a shaped tool.

You can make a wooden form that matches what you want the beads in the floor to look like and then hammer the metal into form. You need to have a way to hold the metal in place through out the forming operation. You are better moving a little metal at a time and make multiple passed to get the shape in the panel. Don't try to form the bead all at one time.

You have to understand where the metal is coming from to form the bead. If you can make the metal stretch into the form without pulling in from the sides you will have less distortion. This is almost impossible to do unless you can hold the metal tight against the form so it can't move at all. This would require a top and bottom to the form. The top form would have slots that match the recesses in the bottom part of the form. You would then used a shaped tool to form the beads that fit inside the grooves. You would probably still have some distortion in the panel that would require stretching along the edge of the bead to make the panel totally flat because I don't think that a wooden form would stop all movement of the metal in from the sides. Your shaped tool could be a piece of round stock about 3 inches long with rounded ends and a piece of flat bar welded on it like a T dolly. You can hit on the flat bar to force the metal into the groove. This type of tool will give you more control.

Think what you should do is make a tool like I describe and use it on the panel that you already made to even out the shape of the bead. Then turn the panel over and using a flat piece of stock to straighten and stretch along the edge of the bead to flatten the sheet. Do a little at a time and watch the results. You will learn how the metal moves and what it takes to get the panel flat. Go slow, use multiple passed and don't hit the metal real hard. Many soft hits is better than one big hit.

Hope this helps a little. Use this exercise to see how the metal moves.
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  #20  
Old 01-08-2010, 07:41 PM
slantback37 slantback37 is offline
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Joe. i am using 16 gauge sheetmetal for the floor.. i was going to wait untill I get the other panel done before I turn it over and pound at the edges to the bead. makes sence that it would straighten out the form. The panels both also have to be cut to the size needed for the rear floors. I would make that tool that Johnny is talking about, but there is ony three more beads needed.

What I was speaking of with the wood was.. If I were to shape patch pieces for the rear tail pan on the car. Would it be better to try and form the sheetmetal over a wooden form rather than just try to match it??
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