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  #11  
Old 06-15-2014, 11:54 PM
Barry Barry is offline
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Originally Posted by berntd View Post
.....So just to be sure, should the windscreen be smaller than the body flange/lip, the same size or larger?
That will depend entirely on how the rubber looks/works Bernt(as Peter said). Can you show a pic in cross section?

I had the opposite issue on my '41 Ford pickup a while back - cut glass to the original's shape and used an aftermarket rubber. It went in real easy (should have known!) but then leaked a little. Turns out the screen had to be a few mm's bigger to work with that particular rubber.

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@Barry, I used to live in Goodwood...
Just down the road from me - and I'm sure you'll remember it is pronounced 'Good-ood' by the locals
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  #12  
Old 06-16-2014, 08:53 AM
Doug M Doug M is offline
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To put windscreens in split window VW vans I was taught to lube the rubber with "crisco", place a book lace in the wind screen slot, push the glass into the corner with the lace ends then pull the (outer) flange over the glass with the lace. I've used this on VWs, those little windows in the "B" pillars, older hot rods with new back windows. Seems to work. you may have to get someone on the inside keeping the lace from just snaking throughby holding tension on the lace each straight section.
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  #13  
Old 06-16-2014, 10:28 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Originally Posted by berntd View Post
Very good advise folks!

The new rubber is 4m long and came straight or from a 25m roll.

So just to be sure, should the windscreen be smaller than the body flange/lip, the same size or larger?


Best regards
Bernt
Bernt,

The advice to use a short cut-off section of the rubber is very good.

Use that to see how much overlap you really need. I have always seen overlap on every car and truck from every country over many years of production, but the amount varies a little, and seeing a sample of what you have when set in place will help you figure it. You don't want the glass falling in your lap with a big gust of wind on the highway at 90kmh. But you need to get it in the opening easily, too.

Flat glass is simple to figure the overlap, but more prone to cracking when fighting it in, so make it easy to get in by doing the mockups first.
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  #14  
Old 06-16-2014, 11:16 AM
metalman sweden metalman sweden is offline
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Cut a gang of 1" pieces of the rubber and try to fit your pattern, you will see directly if its on or of the road... Used this metod many times and all ? Will be !

Some cars have crude setups... Fiat topolino is one of them, the glass should go in the rubber from the inside of the car, guess how many nos shields I have sold just becouse people try to fit them from the outside

Keep us updated
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  #15  
Old 06-16-2014, 05:52 PM
berntd berntd is offline
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After reading all this great advise, I will get it sorted on the weekend.

Another question:

What type of glue is suitable for these rubbers? I would like to eventually glue the 2 ends together and possibly also the V-cut bits in the corners.
Since everything is kinda hard to get, I might as well inquire now already.
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  #16  
Old 06-17-2014, 07:13 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Bernt,
Wurth Rubber adhesive is pretty good, but Loctite 406 is the best, instant bond, and I have had rubbers that I used 406 on are still good after 8 years.
Just with Exposed rubber, you may be better off to slightly vee the join after using 406 to bond, and smear a little black urethane on. (Found the 406 in UV dries the rubber and makes it chalky) you know the typical black sponge after you wash around the windscreen rubber. I hope understand what I'm on about.

Cheers John
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  #17  
Old 06-17-2014, 08:29 PM
berntd berntd is offline
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Thanks John.

Loctite never occured to me
It turns out that I have access to a bottle of Loctite 480. It seems very similar in application and properties to the 406 you mentioned and I might give that a try when I am ready.
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