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  #101  
Old 10-29-2014, 10:11 PM
mildsteel 2002 mildsteel 2002 is offline
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Hi Marcus
Another vote for the 3rd photo style it gives a better shape to the rear panel.
Regards Dennis
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  #102  
Old 10-29-2014, 10:53 PM
Doug M Doug M is offline
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I'm for lengthening the window, third photo. Think of looking behind you at traffic and the extra window makes lots of sense.

The 5 window 50s chevys have the look over your right shoulder window to see that traffic in your blind spot but were so expensive as to have been not sold much, RIGHT shoulder remember this is an Australian build.
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  #103  
Old 10-30-2014, 11:03 AM
VetteMemphis VetteMemphis is offline
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Third (bottom) version, Marcus.

Nicely designed and, as the others have noted, the extra viewing area will be priceless once you start driving it.
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Last edited by VetteMemphis; 10-30-2014 at 11:04 AM. Reason: sp
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  #104  
Old 10-30-2014, 11:09 AM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Hi Marcus

Great work on the whole project. That will be a really neat truck when done.

I will also vote for the bottom picture, for the same reasons!!!!

Steve
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  #105  
Old 10-30-2014, 05:28 PM
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Richard K Richard K is offline
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I prefer the look of the second photo from the last. The stock width window adds a lot of interest to the look.

In the last photo it just looks as if everything has be cut, stretched, widened and lowered the same ratios. No imagination and/or individuality. The second up photo, my choice, is more subtle and prompt some questions about what parts were modified. Interesting and it demands a second look.

Do people still turn around and look out the back? I tend to use mirrors. If rear vision is a big issue, you probably should have not chopped the top.

This is going to be an eye catcher, take it to the max.
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Last edited by Richard K; 10-30-2014 at 05:31 PM.
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  #106  
Old 10-30-2014, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton View Post
I like the bottom photo best Marcus. Are we in real time now?
Not in real time yet, but only the bottom half of the lower rear wall has just been put together, so things can be still changed. So opinions are being noted. Thanks to all who have contributed so far.

Not sure if I should be posting the following as not that interesting, but guess it does show work that gets done and never seen later on?
Been looking for thing to do while my back heals, so little jobs that don't require lifting much it is. Least now I can even pick up a tool if I drop it on the floor, which was a real struggle a few weeks ago. Doing great now though.


Made a template of the top of the Willys firewall and then widened it 9" to suit the new width it will end up. Going to use the very top of the Willys firewall and attach it to the seam the template it sitting on. So everything above the template needs to be removed.


I need to leave the the upper part of the donor firewall in place as the A/C unit draws the fresh air from this compartment. Will need to completely reshape the upper piece to fit under the Willys curved cowling.


I have folded the flange down at each end that used to be up. This is so I can attach ducting to it so air can be drawn in from the side of the cowling where I will weld in some louvres.


Top of firewall reshaped. This will be hidden behind the top part of the Willys firewall.


Now need to flatten out the top piece. This will act as a support between the top of this firewall and the bottom of the channel piece below it.


I started by softening the crease by hammering a T dolly, that I made 20 years ago, along it. I use this too if I over fold something a bit as well. Followed it up with a blocking hammer over the stump.


Starting to get the profile I am after now. Will have to work it some more to bring it back in line yet. This will never be seen as under the Willys cowl and using it more as an exercise in seeing what I could achieve. Would love to have an English wheel as would make this job much easier.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 08-01-2017 at 11:42 PM.
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  #107  
Old 10-30-2014, 06:17 PM
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Back into the Willys again after getting everything back into order after being away.


While marking out the cabs I also had to take into account the width of the top part compared to the bottom one once the 2" sectioned was cut out. The taper at the A pillar showed I had to add 3 mm, 1/8", each side. The fill in piece for the top part will be made 226 mm, 9", and the bottom 220 mm.


The B pillar has even more taper as the section to be cut out was a bit higher where it tapers more around the window height. An extra 6mm, or 1/4" extra each side will be added.


The back wall will mostly come from the 48 cab. It was cut as wide as possible on the lower section to just where the recessed part starts to curve. I will use the corners on the lower part from the 58 and they will be cut further along to make up the extra width that I am after. It will be more than the 220 mm that I am widening the cab because I am also making the cab longer. Due to the trapezoid shape, when viewed from above, means any extra length also makes the rear wall wider. An extra 35 mm, or nearly 1.5" wider.
The upper part of the rear wall will be used completely as is in much better condition than the 58. It will be cut in half and a new piece made for the middle making the window wider.


So after much checking of all the cut lines, it is out with the 9" grinder with a cut off wheel to cut through the pillars.


The switched to the jigsaw to cut the rest around the cab walls.


The reciprocating saw was great for cutting through the header panel as you could keep the cut straight by cutting both sides at once.


Well the top is off!


Wont be using the parts in the foreground from this cab, only the ones in the background. They will still be useful for cutting out some patch panels where this one is not damaged in the same places.


So the 48 will give up the rear wall, all 4 corners of the top section and the lower middle part of the cowl which have all been been cut 9" wider.


Time to cut up the 58 now. Decided to use the reciprocating saw to cut through all 4 pillars first. Just got to keep an eye out of both ends of the blade to keep it level.


The jigsaw with a fine metal cutting blade was use for the cowl and rear wall.


Cutting out a section of the upper frame above the window to make the rear wall of the 48 cab wider overall.


This piece cut out had a lot to take into account. Not only the extra over all cabin width of 220 mm, but also the 35 mm extra due the the taper of the cab floor from making the cab longer. Then 12 mm total due to the taper in the walls after sectioning out the 50 mm, and then also another 3 mm for the thickness of the blade when I cut the rear upper wall through the middle of the window!
So 270 mm extra in the upper rear wall in the end. I don't expect anyone to follow that rambling.


Another roof chopped off.


Cutting the corners to size.


The parts used out of the 58. 2 cowl sides and rear corners plus the upper and lower sections of the front window and above the rear window as well, though not shown.
I wished I could have done it differently, but the lower part of the 58 was in better condition than the 48 and vice a versa. So used as much as possible of the best parts from both cabs and will fabricate parts that were just too far gone in both.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 08-01-2017 at 11:50 PM.
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  #108  
Old 11-01-2014, 06:39 AM
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Time to setup the workshop for the body building phase. So the chassis was rolled out of the workshop and on to the side street and towed up around the corner to the front of the house.


Neighbours came around quickly to give me a hand to get it into the garage. Nice to have help like that.




New resting place for the next few years while I start building the body.


Hard to believe that a cab will be made from these parts.


Donor floor and firewall will be tack welded to the heavy trestles I made to keep it level and square.


Decided to try something different to remove what was left of the old floor from the bottom of the rear wall. Rather than drilling out all the spot welds, going to carefully grind them away from the other side. Noticed how the spot welds are dented in from shrinking from the welding heat. Don't want to be left with that if I can.


The spot welds were punched down from the inside to make them flat on the outside before cutting them away.


Used a 1 mm cut off disc in the grinder to cut around the spot weld.


Material cut away from around the spot weld.


Then ground away. Doing it this way creates far less heat them just attacking it with a grinding disc for the whole thing.


All of them done. Still takes some time but you would have had to grind down if drilled out and then welded up too. This way much less heat and distortion and no risk of blowing though.


The spot weld dents are much less after punching them first. The lip was also dressed flat that was on the bottom of the wall as will be cut to suit the new floor profile.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 08-01-2017 at 11:53 PM.
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  #109  
Old 11-01-2014, 07:05 AM
David Gardiner David Gardiner is offline
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I missed this thread until now, probably because I have not been on here for weeks. I read the whole thing through over the last couple of days. You are doing a great job. The chassis work is great. I am looking forward to seeing the rest of the build.
Keep up the good work Marcus.
David
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  #110  
Old 11-02-2014, 04:59 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Gardiner View Post
I missed this thread until now, probably because I have not been on here for weeks. I read the whole thing through over the last couple of days. You are doing a great job. The chassis work is great. I am looking forward to seeing the rest of the build.
Keep up the good work Marcus.
David
Thank you so much David. Means a lot coming from you as love the work you do and have watched your DVD many times over to help me learn to work on this project.
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