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Old 10-08-2014, 04:51 AM
Ron Naida Ron Naida is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Nov 2015
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: MD
Posts: 278
Default shaping wire edge strips






One of the last things I needed to do when I put my bomber seats away was the wire
edging. Since I made the seats out of 5052 I was not about to wrestle that material.

I made up separate edging out of .050 3003 and 3/16 dia 6061 rod. . First I sheared strips 1-5/8 wide x 36 long as that is my bar folder capacity in length.
Bent up about 8 strips with the pocket 180 over. . Then used a mallet to close the wire in more.
Next through the Pexto to set the wire in tight.

I was playing with a set of inserts I made for the pullmax.
When I make a set of inserts I usually start with a piece of ¾ thick aluminum and in this case 2” tall x 4 wide. I laid out and drilled a 3/8 hole slightly above center then cut in half.on the band saw.
The hole is in the top half and the bottom is nearly flat. When I pinned the two halves in the holders I used just the middle pins which allows a little rocking.

The eye opener. I usually polish the dies and grind lead in and out . Anxious to see if I was anywhere near something that was going to work I just stuck them in as they were.

Feeding in and unintentional I noticed I could curve the edging.
I stuck some poster board shims under the lower insert that tilted the die to hit on the 1” leg
more. This along with the bandsaw serrations acted like a stretcher and by adjusting the lower tool holder up progressively I could curve the beading.


Ron
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Old 10-08-2014, 05:38 AM
RockHillWill RockHillWill is offline
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Posts: 3,089
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Perfect timing. I am getting ready to do a similar process on the speedster passenger/driver openings and had hoped to be able to do just what you have posted. I have made a pair of steel die sets, one I/2" wide with 7/8" stems for the P7 and a 3/8" die set with 3/4" stems for the P5. It was my thinking that I would close the wire edging with the 1/2" wide die set, then using the 3/8" set, I would try to do what you have accomplished by forming the enclosed wire. I am also happy to see that you are able to form in both directions.

I noticed what looks like beads that go around the corners in the back panel. Did you do the beads first, then form the corner? Or the other way around? Thanks for the encouraging post.

I have the pieces for the hand held roller on order and will post when I have actually accomplished some progress.
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Old 10-08-2014, 06:56 AM
Ron Naida Ron Naida is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Nov 2015
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: MD
Posts: 278
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Will,
By around the corners I think you are asking about that front bottom seat
corner.

After running through the Pexto and while still straight just wrap that strip around a 3" diameter pipe. Then do you curving in the pullmax.

Ron
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Old 10-08-2014, 09:23 AM
RockHillWill RockHillWill is offline
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Posts: 3,089
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Ron, I did a poor job of explain. I was looking at the vertical back panel, it looks like the beads go around the corners.
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  #5  
Old 10-10-2014, 02:04 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
MetalShaper of the Month October '14 , April '16, July 2020, Jan 2023
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Western Sierra Nevadas, Badger Hill, CA
Posts: 4,388
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Naida View Post
One of the last things I needed to do when I put my bomber seats away was the wire
edging. Since I made the seats out of 5052 I was not about to wrestle that material.

I made up separate edging out of .050 3003 and 3/16 dia 6061 rod. . First I sheared strips 1-5/8 wide x 36 long as that is my bar folder capacity in length.
Bent up about 8 strips with the pocket 180 over. . Then used a mallet to close the wire in more.
Next through the Pexto to set the wire in tight.

I was playing with a set of inserts I made for the pullmax.
When I make a set of inserts I usually start with a piece of ¾ thick aluminum and in this case 2” tall x 4 wide. I laid out and drilled a 3/8 hole slightly above center then cut in half.on the band saw.
The hole is in the top half and the bottom is nearly flat. When I pinned the two halves in the holders I used just the middle pins which allows a little rocking.

The eye opener. I usually polish the dies and grind lead in and out . Anxious to see if I was anywhere near something that was going to work I just stuck them in as they were.

Feeding in and unintentional I noticed I could curve the edging.
I stuck some poster board shims under the lower insert that tilted the die to hit on the 1” leg
more. This along with the bandsaw serrations acted like a stretcher and by adjusting the lower tool holder up progressively I could curve the beading.

Ron
I would not tangle with the 5052, either. Making the trim is far easier and nicer.

I love it when a plan comes together! Nice stretchers.
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  #6  
Old 10-23-2014, 03:03 PM
Ron Naida Ron Naida is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Nov 2015
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: MD
Posts: 278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockHillWill View Post
Ron, I did a poor job of explain. I was looking at the vertical back panel, it looks like the beads go around the corners.
Will,
I finally got the time to continue the wire edge around the top.
I had difficulty shrinking the 1" lip at the top corners so I took a 2" dia pipe
and did a cut out. I am getting used to the look and may leave it or weld in a half circle.

Ron
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