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First time and need guidance
This is really my first shaping project involving shrinking and wheeling. I have been lurking here for some time and learned a ton so far. I'm stuck now though. I have managed to crank out this one piece with a big ass twist/ oil can in it. I can't tell if it need shrinking on the radius side or streaching on the flat side. I have tried a bit of both but not sure which way to go. This will also be the first time I ever posted pics so here goes.
001.jpg 002.jpg
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Guy Morter The police never think it's as funny as you do..... Flatheads forever Buy American |
#2
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Hi Guy by the look on your pic looks to me that you need to shrink more on the shoulder specially in the middle, then work your way towards the ends that will bring the top down on both sides as well ....then you can wheel the shoulder side way and finish it off till it fits well on the buck, has you do that you need to wheel the rest of the panel as well , wheel and finish off the top length ways, do little wheeling side ways on the top, wheel it side ways a little just to smooth things off
Peter
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P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM |
#3
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Peter,
Thanks for the input. I have been studying your work in "Sheet Metal Fab For Car Builders". In fact I am basically trying to emulate your Lotus nose. This rear body is similar but more pointed on the narrow (rear) end. I'm trying to shrink the shoulder side with tuck and stump. I'm not sure how far to shrink into the radius though for fear of wrecking what I now have. Picture to follow. I wish you lived down the street from me....
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Guy Morter The police never think it's as funny as you do..... Flatheads forever Buy American |
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Guy Morter The police never think it's as funny as you do..... Flatheads forever Buy American Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 01-07-2016 at 05:30 PM. |
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Hi Guy
Your buck looks good & you have a good start on the panel. one question where will you put your weld? If you have extra metal that could be trimmed a little it would reduce the amount of material to shrink. shrinking is more difficult, than stretching, so with that said go ahead and shrink as much as you think is needed or a little more. By the time you get it all smoothed out in the shrink area it will have stretched back some. I would put the weld right in the middle of the radius because then only 1/2 of the shrink is on each panel, so you don't need to shrink as deep into the panels. Just saw your new pic. If the radius should start at the solid line then the shrinks need to go that deep. Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 01-07-2016 at 05:35 PM. |
#6
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As Steve posted above, putting half of the bends and shrinks in each panel (sides and top) and moving the weld joint to the middle of the radius will help make it simpler, it will also help in the welding/finishing by not having the weld on the flat part of the lower panel. The one place I would not weld on the corner is the lower rear "point", if it is as sharp as a Bugatti type 35 that you want it to resemble. If you make the rear "point" bend in one of the lower panels and move the weld joint away a little, you will be able to still work the metal and the weld.
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John |
#7
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Hey Steve,
Thanks for helping out here. The welds will be in the center of the radius and where the two top panels meet right down the center. I think the buck will be ok....although I may have made it difficult to clamp in places. The sharpie line is where the tangent of the radius and straight (flat) meet If I understand correctly...I need to shrink into the radius all the way to the tangent ? I think I will be un-doing all the radius I now have. When I made my pattern it didn't seem like it would need that much shrinking. The sharpie line is the weld line on the pattern. I allowed an extra inch there so I'll trim closer per your advice. I am the student...you all are the teachers and thanks. BP Spec, Charlie,Dolphin brakes 008.jpg BP Special 001.jpg
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Guy Morter The police never think it's as funny as you do..... Flatheads forever Buy American |
#8
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Quote:
I actually started trying to make the whole radius section in one piece yesterday. I got it pretty far then decided as you suggest to split it length wise. I knew there would be some metal to scrap conversion.... I am trying to use the Bugatti 35 for inspiration as you guessed. My buck has the rear rounded off some not as pointy as the real thing. A Bugatti with all Ford running gear and a Chevy engine...Blasphemy! The intention is to vintage race it when done.
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Guy Morter The police never think it's as funny as you do..... Flatheads forever Buy American |
#9
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Quote:
No, I didn't guess type 35, I went back and read your introductry post! also, I think Edsel Ford had a type 35 that he had a flathead installed in it.(that is what I was told )
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John |
#10
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When you shrink the edge and get what I call a bubble just above the shrink, like you have, you need to shrink deeper. Make a paper pattern of the shape you are making (by folding the paper into pleats) and you find the folds taper into the flatter area. The same needs to be done on your panel when you shrink. I would roll the panel the opposite way and work it out of arrangement to shrink, smooth and blend in the wheel. That way you can use a flatter radius wheel for smoothing.
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Jeff Dyce Hell, there are no rules here - we're trying to accomplish something. Thomas A. Edison |
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