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Old 07-29-2018, 09:04 PM
Schroeder Schroeder is offline
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Default Shaping multi-directional curves- spoiler

Guys I am working on a 77 trans am. I have multiple ideas for adding small touches to the car to make it unique. Some of the changes are necessary to accommodate large wheels and other such mods. Some of the changes are purely for custom looks and asthetics. This particular thread is about an asthetics project.

First let me start by saying I have an English wheel, shrinker/stretcher kit, and bead roller. All of them are the harbor freight units. I have shears, throatless shears, and all the necessary tin snips of course too.

I want to know how I could make the spoiler for my car out of metal. The factory fiberglass units mate to the car weird and look cheap if you stare and study them. I think their construction would be pretty difficult. The main trunk piece curves across the car's width as well as on its front and rear faces. The faces come to a "sharp" point where the top edge is only 3/16"ish wide. Idk how such a deep, sharp edge would be created without making the piece out of several pieces and welding them together. I have these pieces labeled with numbers in the attached pic.

Should this piece be made from 3 pieces? Two #1's and 1 that was the front and rear faces? I'd think I'd need some large diameter, deep tipping die to make the sharp, deep edge if the front and rear faces are going to be 1 piece. The wheeling would also probably have to be done before the bend since I wouldn't be able to get the wheel in after the bends. There should also be support pieces throughout the spoiler that are shaped similar to #1 too shouldn't there be? I'd probably make it out of aluminum killed draw quality 19ga steel.

Maybe I'm way off base. Probably am. The pieces that mount on the quarters are much more complex. This is just the starter piece. I can only dream of how much junk I'm going to generate attempting to make these pieces. I better order some more 4'x8' sheets.

Please give me some direction. Thanks in advance. I really look forward to learning this stuff.

1532217600735.jpg
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Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 07-30-2018 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 07-30-2018, 07:51 AM
drivejunk drivejunk is offline
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If trying to make it in 3 pieces, I would begin by starting the bend along the top, then complete that bend once the other contours are added.
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Old 07-30-2018, 08:10 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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is the top edge flat or does it have a slight curve to it. If its flat then the way Matt mentioned is pretty good, but if its curved then that way will be difficult.
4 piece option may be better.
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Old 07-30-2018, 08:13 AM
Schroeder Schroeder is offline
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And this would be with a tipping die? Would I need to leave the top 3/16 edge long ( like 3") for bending and being able to get hold of it and then cut it to its 3/16" length? The top edge is corved. Its outer edges are lower than the center. That means some shrinking and stretching right?

Is this idrivejunk from hotrod forums?
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Old 07-30-2018, 08:44 AM
drivejunk drivejunk is offline
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Yes, its me and I am green as grass at metal shaping. I'll stay out of the way, just wanted to help get your thread moving. I wanted to make it in four pieces. If you use a washer 3/16" thick as the male side of a large bead die and go lightly, I bet you could start the top bend nicely. Going to be much easier if you plan to weld at the top though. I have found that for long gentle curves, tipping the bend with curve included works much better than bending straight then shrinking and stretching. Don't know if its a sin, but I like to tip larger radius stuff with the e-wheel. It lets you do that whereas the brake limits you to straight lines. Listen to anyone but me though because as I said, I'm a pup at this.
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Old 07-30-2018, 01:48 PM
drivejunk drivejunk is offline
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Jordan, are you wanting to exactly replicate the stock spoiler's shape? If I understand correctly you will be splicing this piece into the trunk lid skin, and the ends into the quarters. I think if it did not have the 3/16" flat across the top, that would look cool and help it look not fiberglass. I don't know if it would make shaping the piece any easier but it would eliminate the complication of that flat if there is to be no seam on top.
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Old 07-30-2018, 05:14 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Looks to me like a piece that is applied to the car by threaded fasteners.


I'd make the bottom (base) piece fit the lid, with 1/2" flanges fore and aft and add the threaded inserts to it and the mount holes in the lid.
Then I'd make the ends with 3/8 - 1/2" flanges and solder them onto the base, using the base flanges.
Then I'd make the aft section and fit that onto the base and ends. Then take a line off the upper section, to the curve that looks right. I'd make a copper tube section that fits both the upper radius and the arch/curve, and trim the aft section to match that line, plus 3/16" for a radius bend - to embrace the tube. Solder the tube on where it is embraced by the aft section.


Make the front piece, now that experience has taught you well.

Fit that onto the base flange, the end flanges, and the top tube.
Cleco or sm screw w/#4 scruz. Solder on.

Use wet rag as heat sink to avoid melting previous seam.
Use 50/50 solder and common flux from the hdw store.


Caveat: Not to use TIG or MIG to apply solder.

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Old 07-30-2018, 05:16 PM
jmcglynn jmcglynn is offline
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The original Ron Fournier book has some good examples of building a spoiler and flares.

Personally, I wouldn't spend time duplicating the OEM spoiler in metal. Make something unique!

In Ron's book he makes a couple of cross-section templates in sheetmetal and clecos them to the car to serve as a guide. That seems like a good way to start. You could also bend some 1/4" round bar to outline the shape you want. That would work well too. Once you have an outline of the shape you can make paper patterns and figure out how to make it.
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Old 07-30-2018, 05:34 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystallographic View Post
Looks to me like a piece that is applied to the car by threaded fasteners.


I'd make the bottom (base) piece fit the lid, with 1/2" flanges fore and aft and add the threaded inserts to it and the mount holes in the lid.
Then I'd make the ends with 3/8 - 1/2" flanges and solder them onto the base, using the base flanges.
Then I'd make the aft section and fit that onto the base and ends. Then take a line off the upper section, to the curve that looks right. I'd make a copper tube section that fits both the upper radius and the arch/curve, and trim the aft section to match that line, plus 3/16" for a radius bend - to embrace the tube. Solder the tube on where it is embraced by the aft section.


Make the front piece, now that experience has taught you well.

Fit that onto the base flange, the end flanges, and the top tube.
Cleco or sm screw w/#4 scruz. Solder on.

Use wet rag as heat sink to avoid melting previous seam.
Use 50/50 solder and common flux from the hdw store.


Caveat: Not to use TIG or MIG to apply solder.


... And you can make design adjustments in your pieces as you go by using the base piece in place and mocking up variations as you go.


Sometimes you cannot see a shape clearly until it is mocked up in the physical - whether by paper, cardboard, or sculpted/carved spray foam.


It is a nice job to learn with. Making oval track dirt car wings was the way I got familiar with making spoilers. Great fun.

(Mustang Special- Ed Evans - http://autoculture.org/?p=3555)

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Last edited by crystallographic; 07-30-2018 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 08-03-2018, 08:20 AM
Schroeder Schroeder is offline
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Wow! I haven't checked my thread in a couple days and I'm loving all the ideas I'm seeing. Thanks a lot fellas. I'm at work now, but I'm definitely gonna review these tonight and maybe even give some if the ideas a try this weekend (hopefully).

Kinda a useless post here, but I had to say something until I get a chance to post an in depth reply. Thanks!
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