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Here's a test fit of the reproduction wheel well for the 55, this is the front section. Note the poor fit to the rear side of the quarter panel. I don't know if these are an EXACT reproduction of OEM, but have heard others having similar "gaping hole" issues with their original cars.
This is the driver's side: video version.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WiSaQXkkowc This is the passenger side we modified Thursday, adding a 1/2" filler strip and then trimming to fit to the quarter panel.... .......and shown here with seal in place... Here Kyle is adding the 1/2" filler strip to the driver's side reproduction wheel well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=penIygidVUc With the rear section not available in reproduction (blessing in disguise), here is the final layout and trim of our version.. Flanges are tipped using the Fasti swaging machine.. Test fit of the driver's side wheel wells. The front reproduction piece has the filler strip added but still needs trimming, the rear section is a much better fit than what came out from the factory.. Video version: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BvNqdKQf3U Once the front section has been trimmed for proper fit, we will butt weld the front and rear section together to eliminate another overlap rust trap.
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#12
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Finishing up on our drivers side wheel well today. The front "modified" reproduction is trimmed and fitted. A light is put behind it to check for gaps...
The baffle that sits above the wheel well is made differently as well, this time using a piece of 16 ga cold rolled steel, and trimmed to fill the void. We left a slight gap that we plan on sealing with seam sealer. Shown here with bulb seal against the quarter.... The trouble with the factory version of sealing above the baffle is that the expanding foam encapsulates the surrounding area, to include surrounding the slot for trim hardware. It is here that water intrudes, and is held against the quarter causing rust. Our version will leave this hole unobstructed so that any water intrusion that may occur will pass on through. Now to fill in our screw holes that held together the "MDF Sandwich" that we used for beading the panel. A piece of 1/4" thick X 1" copper flat bar is used as a backer, I find it leaves the back side of the weld much cleaner than using flattened copper pipe. Video version: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2k5_RqRnzc With the front and rear sections having been fitted and trimmed for a butt weld, next we tack the panels together with the TIG.. Now we have a one piece wheel well, no overlap joints to trap moisture and start rust, as the originals had done. One piece wheel well test fitted using the bulb seal.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViIPhYNsEb0 Moving on to the passenger side, both front and back are trimmed and test fitted. Some minor tweaks and we will be ready to trim for a butt weld and TIG these together next time..
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#13
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Nice work as always!!
I like the factory reproduction, but better, philosophy... It really makes for a professional finish. I'm always intrigued to see how you make your jigs and tooling to create the features of the panels. I noticed in the video where the formed beads were put in with the Lennox, that it seemed like you tipped up the part at the one end. Why was that needed? It didn't seem that you did that at the other end. Thanks for posting all the details!
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Brad Currently working on a new garage for the tools... Also a member on garagejournal.com |
#14
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Quote:
Your shears look to be Milwaukee - can you give me a model number? They look like just the thing for cutting large sheets, Cheers Charlie |
#15
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These don't have the finger guard, but they have been around for years, with replacement parts readily available.
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Jerry Roy |
#16
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Quote:
14 ga capacity.. I already had a Milwaukee kit so I ordered the tool alone for a better price point. The nose also has a spring loaded tab release that allows the cutting head to be rotated in 45* increments. Check out CPO outlets online......
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel Last edited by MP&C; 10-04-2016 at 10:35 PM. |
#17
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Thank you Robert!
Unfortunately, it seems that the Milwaukee double-shear is not available in Australia and the US has different mains-voltage to us; so I will have to be content without one. If I ask the Milwaukee agent in town, to ask the distributor to start importing them, miracles might happen! Alternatively, someone smarter than me, might know how to recharge the battery from 240v, Cheers Charlie |
#18
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Charlie,
Looks like they make a charger that would work on 240 volts https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-C18.../dp/B00355CEG0
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Steve ærugo nunquam dormit |
#19
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Ooops, my previous post was truncated. Sorry.
Kett has been making double cuts for decades, and parts are readily available. If you use the cutters for heavy gauges, you will find that the battery operated ones don't last as long as you want then to. And the batteries give up after a few years. On the other hand, corded ones will run anytime you have mains access, and if your mains are 2??volts, you can use a transformer to step down to 120. Battery operated ones are fine on occasion, but for all around use, I would suggest a mains powered one. Here is what I didn't get in last time; https://www.amazon.com/Kett-KD-440-G.../dp/B0000224KA They may make a 2?? volt model, so you might ask. CZ
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Jerry Roy |
#20
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im sure the milwarke stuff here is comparable you would just need to import the machine and use a local charger or buy some air powered double cutters
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Silverlin...cAAOSwzaJX9Vg9
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David Geelong victoria Australia Last edited by ekdave1962; 10-06-2016 at 01:53 PM. |
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