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  #21  
Old 08-18-2017, 06:53 PM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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If you test me, I'll probably get an F..... It has a lot of information. It's more reference than memorizing, at least for me.

It's great for providing general parameters like seated dimensions in different positions, some focal length, line of sight, lighting and more. Good for starting points that can be tuned for an individual that would otherwise be lots of trial and error. It's one of the better reference books that I've ever found.
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  #22  
Old 08-18-2017, 07:14 PM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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Trust me, I was never a test taker! I was just trying to be funny. I have the book on order and really appreciate the reference! Please have a good weekend!
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  #23  
Old 08-19-2017, 06:45 AM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Rouse View Post
This is just a suggestion. You may find it useful to make a profile of yourself with pivot points at the joints. This will help size the full size drawing of the car may help to have a front profile too

Mike
As Mike has suggested, I have done a small scale profile of myself with pivots. I will eventually make a full size drawing. It was difficult, but was able to make a fairly accurate drawing of my profile.

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Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 08-19-2017 at 08:19 AM.
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  #24  
Old 08-19-2017, 02:45 PM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Rouse View Post
Dave the pivot points are to represent your body joints so you can simulate arm and leg movement. Use it to check your sitting position and other movements you don't wanttobuild a car that you can't fit in or operate it.

Mike
Mike, thank you very much! At first, I didn't get what you were suggesting. I understand it now, and again thank you! As I have thought about your suggestion, I am better able to comprehend the usefulness of it especially at the beginning. I hope you know my drawing was just for humor. As I have gotten older I have put on some pounds and Homer Simpson is more like me every day! haha.

Again, sincerely, thank you! Dave
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  #25  
Old 08-19-2017, 08:03 PM
Mike Rouse Mike Rouse is offline
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That's great David. Thank you

Mike
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  #26  
Old 09-14-2017, 11:46 AM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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Default Car Name Insignia

I have a very long to do list, like most of us I'm sure. One of the tasks I wanted to do was name my car after my father. It is a bit cliche and a bit traditional, but I named my car The Curtis Flyer after the guy who inspired me to dream that anything was possible. I would like the car name on the hood and trunk.

I had original contacted several companies trying to get the copper name cut using a water jet. I was unable to find a company that would do it. So I decided to do it by hand. Not going to look as good, but able to accomplish the task.

I started out with a sheet of .063 copper. I then printed the name style I wanted on to paper. Fixed some of the gaps with a black marker, spray glued the paper to the copper, then drilled out the spaces between letters with varying sized drill bits, used the bandsaw to cut off excess, used a jewelers saw to cut out material from the hard to reach areas (broke a lot of saw blades), used various files to shape the letters. As you can see from the pictures, I have one nearly finished and one ready to go to the bandsaw. I will get the second one to the same level of completeness, then set aside until the car is finished. Eventually I will solder copper posts to the back and make post stays that will keep the names mounted to the car. I will also polish then clear coat the copper prior to mounting.

If there is an easier way to do this by hand, someone please tell me!

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  #27  
Old 12-06-2017, 01:17 PM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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Default Chassis Jig and Rear Suspension Support

I am in the process of building the chassis. I first needed a chassis jig to ensure level and square, and a rear suspension brace. Again, I am a novice so I am taking my time and measuring many times before cutting. Also everything that I do, is a learning curve, so I have to slow down and take my time.

The first thing I made was a chassis jig out of .065" wall 2" square tubing. Prior to the jig, I made another rolling tool bench out of the same tubing to practice my TIG welding. I still make crappy welds, but I am getting better. The chassis needed to be able to be dismantled because of garage space. I have to get my tools, a large car, and the builder car in the garage.

I made the support for the rear suspension as a separate piece because of the weight, 200lbs. I estimated the jig would hold up to 250 lbs total, as it is a temporary piece, so I didn't want to try and build a super strong jig when I wasn't going to need it for a long period of time.

I also made a rear suspension stand/support out of the same tube. I had thought I had the correct height when I built it, but I was wrong, so I strapped it down with wood and ratchet straps. Not the best method, but it is level and allowed me to build a frame around it.

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Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 12-06-2017 at 03:13 PM.
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  #28  
Old 12-06-2017, 01:29 PM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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Default Rear Frame

For the chassis I am building, I went with .120" wall 2" square tubing. I know not the preferred choice.

For my fellow beginner's, when funds are limited, you have a choice between project parts or tools. What tools do you need vs. what parts do you need? There is a constant trade off. I didn't want to buy a tube bender for just a few parts and practice tube.

I went with square tubing as I have no experience with round tubing and my local shops are busy with larger customers. So I went with square tubing. I only had two pieces I needed to bend, the rest were 45 degree cuts and 90 degree corners. This made things a lot easier on me. Plus the benders I was looking at were between $500 or more. Too much when I have lots of parts to buy.

The motorcycle rear end uses two thick plates as the connection between the aluminum rear suspension and the motorcycle chassis (I am adapting the plates for this car). I wanted mine to be very robust and built a 'cage' around my frame, as the steel frame will connect the rear suspension to the engine, transmission and the rest of the frame while supporting the body. It is large, but the space above the rear suspension will be where I run the mufflers from the V4 engine. I didn't want to run the exhaust under the suspension because I wanted to maintain at least 6" of ground clearance. I plan on running the exhaust out through the middle of the rear of the body, but this could change.

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Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 12-06-2017 at 03:17 PM.
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  #29  
Old 12-06-2017, 01:38 PM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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Default Tire Mock Up

I made a plywood tire and backspacing tool in order to size the rear frame structure. It helped understand the relationship of the wheels, tires, and fender wells. I did the same for the front suspension to determine the turning radius, but don't have a picture of it mocked up.

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Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 12-06-2017 at 03:19 PM.
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  #30  
Old 12-06-2017, 01:51 PM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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Default Frame Floor

So after taking the advice of many of the commenters (Thank you!) I took many measurements of myself, the spacing I have in my Honda, read and studied spacing in reference material and built the seating area.

One of the problems that I faced was trying to reduce the overall length of the vehicle. Originally the car was to have a wheel base of 96" and 13 foot total length. The wheel base needed to be pushed out to 110" and overall length will be about 14' estimated. The reason for this, I had originally based on my figures on a Harley Davidson engine and transmission which are smaller and air cooled, whereas the Motus engine and transmission at about 10" longer and is water-cooled. I now need to fit a radiator. Since I don't want an opening at the front of the car, I am going to be running an electric fan, and side scoops for the radiator. This required another 12". There are many potential solutions and mine is just one possibility.

Now that I have the frame floor tacked together, I will finish welding it, and continue building the structural support.

One of the problems that I am having here in Florida, is the humidity. If I touch it will rust quickly. Because I am in the process of welding I am not using oils are primers for protectant. Once the weld is complete I use a weld through primary to protect it.

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Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 12-06-2017 at 03:23 PM.
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