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  #11  
Old 10-21-2009, 12:51 AM
CARS CARS is offline
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Alright, between David and John this has really became a thread of interest.

I was taught (sp?) to only replace the metal that needed to be replaced. Small patches, but make sure the rust was completely removed. Usually an inch around the rust after blasting is sufficient.

I understand keeping seams next to body lines for strength, but after cutting my arms up for a dozen years, I understand why one would keep the seam out in the open to make it easier to metal finish the weld without fillers.

I am subscribing to this thread for sure!!!!
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  #12  
Old 10-21-2009, 07:27 AM
David Gardiner David Gardiner is offline
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Hi John. I have seen some of Scott Knights work and I can tell you that he puts his joints in exactly the same places as I would when making a body.

I never said that it was not possible to dress out any panel no matter where you put the joint, it obvoiusly is but why make your life hard?
Dont cause a load of distortion and you will not have to dress it out.

The welding technique I use causes very little distortion and I can metal finish panels very quickly. A big part of the skill involved in making bodies or panels is knowing where to put your joints so that you have least amount of work forming and then finishing the panel to a metal finish that requires no filler. (bondo)



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Last edited by David Gardiner; 10-21-2009 at 07:42 AM. Reason: Add photo
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  #13  
Old 10-21-2009, 07:59 AM
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Chaz Chaz is offline
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Wow! We are getting a lot of information here. Thank you!
Now, the reason for thinking in terms of replacing the complete lower part of the panel. I had taken the doors to my friend's media blasting business to be cleaned. He could be trusted to do an excellent job but on that fateful day he was called away from the business on a family emergency. His newly hired inexperienced teen age helper decided to take it upon himself to media blast the doors. Yikes! He just kept going and going. Now it is like egg shell thin and wavy plus the fine rust holes. He is no longer working there.
Peace,
Chaz
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  #14  
Old 10-21-2009, 09:21 AM
David Gardiner David Gardiner is offline
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Chas do you think you would be able to make the whole doorskin because that would be the best thing to do if the rest of it is as bad as you say.

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  #15  
Old 10-21-2009, 09:56 AM
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I put the seam where it is easy to get to. as for where, close to a body line or not, If i cant get to it, I cant dress it well. I'd shoot for the middle of the panel if its easy to get to. I have done a seam high up near the line before, I was cussin like a sailor before I was done. I have found that no mtter the welding process, or where it is, it might distort alot, it might not. Either way, it needs to be adressed, hopefully easily.

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  #16  
Old 10-21-2009, 10:04 AM
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Just a thought, has anyone ever added bracing that could easily be removed at the weld seam? Just tack a few rods between the skin and the shell and knock them loose when your done welding.

Sort of like welding in a fixture but at a much smaller scale.
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  #17  
Old 10-21-2009, 10:12 AM
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when heating something in a loacalized zone, and it cools, it wants to shrink.

if you remove the braces, it may look straight, but the stress in the haz may allow it to move. Much easier to work the weld as you go or after you are done.

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  #18  
Old 10-21-2009, 10:16 AM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Gardiner View Post
Hi John. I have seen some of Scott Knights work and I can tell you that he puts his joints in exactly the same places as I would when making a body.

I never said that it was not possible to dress out any panel no matter where you put the joint, it obvoiusly is but why make your life hard?
Dont cause a load of distortion and you will not have to dress it out.

The welding technique I use causes very little distortion and I can metal finish panels very quickly. A big part of the skill involved in making bodies or panels is knowing where to put your joints so that you have least amount of work forming and then finishing the panel to a metal finish that requires no filler. (bondo)



A picture speaks a thousand words

David
I disagree but feel funny about speaking in his (Scott’s) behalf. I can almost bet you he would move have moved those seams in your photo at least several inches lower to stay away from those inverted body lines. Power hammers have 2 ½” to 3” diameter dies and your seams would be too close to the body lines for that. Seaming across a nearly flat area isn’t extra problems for him, in fact he seems to prefer it. He has the experience and eye to foot pedal coordination that makes it look easy. I wish I could say I was that good but I have gotten good enough thru the years that seaming nearly flat (low crown) panels doesn’t bother me any more. ~ John Buchtenkirch
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  #19  
Old 10-21-2009, 03:23 PM
David Gardiner David Gardiner is offline
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John, I dont think that Chas has a power hammer or even a hand held planisher. When I teach at college I have to adapt the way I would do things to the skills and tools of my students and I try to do the same thing here. If I were doing this repair as a job I would make a new skin, this would be the only way to achive the standard I work to. If the customer would not pay for this I would not do the job. This is a person who is trying to carry out a decent repair with limited experience and equipment so I am giving advice with this in mind. Once a person has many years of experience and lots of machines almost anything is possible.

David
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  #20  
Old 10-21-2009, 03:27 PM
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Marty Comstock Marty Comstock is offline
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David, the same seam John is talking about is easily handled with a hammer and dolly, no machines needed. Just make things a lil faster. Sometimes.

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