#41
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Seats
The seats will have an insert fitted when finished.
I worked out the general size just by sitting on ply and blocks of wood. The base would not last over time so I made some profiles to rivet to the bottom. I cant fold this type of shape so I made a pressing jig out of scrap. I put it under the press brake and pump into it. I use masking tape to hold the sheet in position on the lower then just place the upper die on top. Attachment 34279 Attachment 34281 Attachment 34280 Attachment 34281
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Nothing is to hard its just how much time you want to give it. Last edited by ozi jim; 09-11-2015 at 05:39 AM. |
#42
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seats
The back lower section is a brace for the rear frame as well as the seat.
I need the 96mm holes to get in to do the bolts for the rear frame attachment, also the seat belts exit through the outer holes. This made the panel a bit week so I pressed a simple profile in the die rubber. 2 are attached to the back side of the panel. I bought a hydrolic hole punch on ebay for $100 and it is the best thing. I have been making dies for the swagging as I need them out of delrin Seat panels are folded up. One trick I use die rubber under the beam for the lower die. I stack it up so I can fold around flanges and not damage them.
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Nothing is to hard its just how much time you want to give it. |
#43
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seat
You end up with a lot of panels just for a seat.
I found a product for the pre paint,Ashley put up about paint prep in his air craft site so I did some research. The product he uses was to expensive for me and it required a tank and a heater so I went for an alternative. PREKOTE is a product approved by Boeing and it was cheap so I have been using it. It is a clear syrup that you scrub in with red scotch bright, rinse then you can paint. The paint I used an etch primer Dulux Metalshield RTU a single pack paint. I am thinking about leaving it in the etch primer as it so durable and cleans up with wax and grease remover and I like the flat look. Rear seat belt brackets had to be welded in before the rear panel was fitted. Small detail brackets all need to go in before the seat bases go in. Attachment 34295
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Nothing is to hard its just how much time you want to give it. Last edited by ozi jim; 09-11-2015 at 05:41 AM. |
#44
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seats
After the paint it was assembled.
I weighed the chassis and currently it is 40.2 kg. Thats all I have for the moment jim
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Nothing is to hard its just how much time you want to give it. |
#45
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You're going like rocket Jim!
Could you show us your router and bits? I love the clean cut in your work. Greetings, Frank
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Frank de Kleuver |
#46
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Hi Jim,
You are doing a great job thanks for taking the time to post pics. Could you please post more detailed pics of you press and what is the rubber and where did you get it that you are using to press your parts into? Also can you tell me exactly what the PRECOTE is so I can look it up and have a read about it. Thanks.
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Scott Last edited by SATAUS; 09-09-2015 at 05:16 PM. |
#47
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Great stuff Jim - watching every rivet with interest!
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Richard "I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers) Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view |
#48
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Thanks Richard
Quote:
The router bits are tungsten carbide , I find if you use around the 12 mm with the bearing it gives a nice rad on the inside corners. The very narrow one is for cutting lamenants it will go into tight areas if needed just use lube as the end gets hot and gauls on the die. I tend to just design the sheet around the 12-13mm tools. Sorry should have taken a better pick of the trimmer, its a Bosch. A trimmer is the same as a router but smaller ,lighter and quieter, I find the router hard to manage and the foot is to big on most jobs. I band saw within a few mill then then finish as its easier on the tools. I use air sheers to get what i need of a sheet then use alloy flat bar 1300 wide to put a clean edge back on it with the trimmer so I can use it against the bandsaw fence if needed.
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Nothing is to hard its just how much time you want to give it. Last edited by ozi jim; 09-10-2015 at 07:10 AM. |
#49
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Quote:
It has memory, the blocks in the pics would be easily 20 years old. Rubber manufacturers Google die rubber, you order it and they make it for you. Dont ask me how hard it is I have no idea,its not soft. I use it to press difficult folds that have other folds interfering it tends to get you out of trouble. It is handy for weird shapes an example would be an inlet manifold runner that is round on one end and square on the other where it meets the port. You get 2 pieces of steel that total the job size, weld it together on the ends then shape the 2 bars as one. Split the bars then weld them to a piece of steel so as not to bend the dies. The steel you weld it to must not hang over the edge. You mount it in the press and pump it into the rubber and the sheet pattern will form around the die. While it is still on the die you scribe the joint line then trim it off. Do the other side and the two come together. Then weld the shells, they are all the same. If you build a steel box on flat bar and place the rubber inside you will get more effort out of the rubber. The bigger the die the more press power you will need. If I do any thing decent I use a mates 50 ton. Sorry rambling again. The advantage is fading folds, my press allows me to pump one side only so I can fold part way into a sheet and it fades out to the other end. The pic of the panel is an example, in the for ground the panel follows the chassis up and out due to suspension location, in the back ground the panel is vertical to the table, I pressed 3 folds into the rubber using one ram to get the panels to meet up.
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Nothing is to hard its just how much time you want to give it. Last edited by ozi jim; 09-10-2015 at 06:17 AM. |
#50
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The press started out life as an I beam that I scrounged out of a scrap yard.
It has flat bar towers on the end to house two 8 ton air/hyd long rams. They sit on top of the beam and push up into the towers. I used 4 garage door springs to pull it up when released. Lower dies are angle iron laid next to each other then welded onto flat bar to form the V. It does not give a true 90 because of spring back so thats some thing I need to look at, for the moment I use a shim on the V. It owes me about $800 , if I dont want a 90 it will do 3mm no prob. I folded 5mm alloy under trays 10-20 deg folds easily. I tried setting up back stops and lasers to get the accuracy and the best way is masking tape, all my folds are 25mm so when the sheet is cut I lay 25mm tape on the up side and fold to that. Tooling is cheap its all out of mild steel.
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Nothing is to hard its just how much time you want to give it. Last edited by ozi jim; 09-10-2015 at 07:13 AM. |
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