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  #21  
Old 09-09-2017, 01:09 PM
chris@whiterhino chris@whiterhino is offline
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Didn't get a bunch done today, just did some assembly of the parts. Mainly the rear tubs and bed sides.

I didn't fully spot weld everything together because as soon as I do, I would need to change something (duh!)

Also, you may or may not be able to tell, but the light gray areas on the flanges I sprayed with weld through primer. I don't really like using that because in my mind I feel anything in the weld pool is an inclusion, but I would rather take that risk than to have it rush through on me. Damn rust! I did that on any flange that was getting a mating service and spot weld.

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  #22  
Old 09-09-2017, 01:10 PM
chris@whiterhino chris@whiterhino is offline
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couple more pictures.

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  #23  
Old 09-09-2017, 01:11 PM
chris@whiterhino chris@whiterhino is offline
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So today sucked a little bit. I was so excited to get started working in the 40 I spot welded my pieces together before I finished the last step. $&!#%

Remember the earlier post, where I said I don't weld everything fully just yet, this is why.

The bad thing about buying good tools it that when used correctly they really work. 7 spot welds just to hold it in place took me an hour or more to get free. I can't remember if I said this, but the spot welder with spot up to 3/16" material.

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  #24  
Old 09-09-2017, 01:11 PM
chris@whiterhino chris@whiterhino is offline
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And a couple holes. I've since fixed them.

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  #25  
Old 09-09-2017, 01:12 PM
chris@whiterhino chris@whiterhino is offline
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So I used a hammer and dolly to smooth it back out, make the last bent and start adding the side supports for the edge

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  #26  
Old 09-09-2017, 01:14 PM
chris@whiterhino chris@whiterhino is offline
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I folded a part of it over so you guys could see the plan of attack. You have to work the edge slowing so you can get it turned 90 degree then all the way over. Basically a hem joint

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  #27  
Old 09-09-2017, 01:15 PM
chris@whiterhino chris@whiterhino is offline
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The next part that I started working on is the corner upper shape as it fades as it rounds the corner. This to me is the hardest piece. I'm not done with it but I wanted to give you guys a look at the process. It starts out rough and you have to continue working it. It's ok if it's not perfect at first. Sheet metal is like clay, you have to work it and it will flow just like clay. I welded the upper edges together so it didn't move so much that I couldn't get a good shape while I worked it.

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  #28  
Old 09-09-2017, 01:15 PM
chris@whiterhino chris@whiterhino is offline
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***Disclaimer***

Yes, I know I can buy these parts, but what fun would that be?

Also, this allows me to teach my guys the process of making a more complex part. This part may look "simple" but there is a lot going on with this part. It would be simple to stamp it out but showing my guys how to come up with a plan of attack for a particular piece is very important.


***End Disclaimer***


So here is a small lesson for anyone wanting to replicate a piece. Get some painters tape, the low stick kind. Cover your part completely and then come back over it with reinforced tape. Here I used duck tape. However this isn't a good choice when doing hot rods because it can move some because the duck tape is flexible. Just keep that in mind. Once you have both layers trim the edges to you have "hard stops". The advantage of this method is it will actually keep the shape of the item.
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  #29  
Old 09-09-2017, 01:17 PM
chris@whiterhino chris@whiterhino is offline
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The next step is to slowly, and I mean slowing tape the tape off as one piece. For this part you will need some baby powder. As you peel the tape back dust it with baby powder so it nulls the sticky.
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  #30  
Old 09-09-2017, 01:18 PM
chris@whiterhino chris@whiterhino is offline
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More pictures of the process
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