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  #1  
Old 02-19-2016, 01:00 AM
Bart Bart is offline
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Default Opinions on 3D scan to make buck

Hi Guys
Ive seen quite a few bucks built which look great, just thinking of making one up by getting a 3D scan of the part.
Is 3D a good way to go in your opinion? So basically getting the part 3D scanned then slicing the scan in several pieces, then these slices can be made into a paper template which can be transferred to timber.
I'm thinking of doing this, I am waiting for a quote to come back to see how much it will be for scanned slices but I think it would save a crap load of time.... I think.

Opinions please
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Old 02-19-2016, 02:41 AM
steve.murphy steve.murphy is offline
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Bart,
Make sure you can get the format in something you can print out if you want full scale printing.

I recently bought 3D slices for a buck that were based on a 3D mode of a car.

I got two sets of files, one was sections in PDF files and the others were in .dwg file format.

I was hoping to print off the PDF files in full scale using the tiling printing option but I was told best they could do with PDF was 1/10 scale so I am still figuring out what to do.

I don't know if the .dwg files can be converted to something allowing full scale printing.

I know I can use the PDF and scale up to full size manually, but that was what I was trying to avoid. As you can probably tell I don't know much about this type of thing.


Steve
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Old 02-19-2016, 03:00 AM
Maxakarudy Maxakarudy is offline
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Steve,
Send your pdf to a local sign company to plot out, I don't think it would be silly money, shop around.
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Old 02-19-2016, 04:09 AM
Bart Bart is offline
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Thanks guys. Ill make sure it prints full scale
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Old 02-19-2016, 07:41 AM
Gareth Davies Gareth Davies is offline
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If you're getting a scan done and sliced into individual sections, get them outputted in .dxf file format and either get them water jet cut or send them to someone who has a CNC router. The latter would most likely be the cheapest and easiest way of going about it.
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Old 02-19-2016, 06:08 PM
Bart Bart is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gareth Davies View Post
If you're getting a scan done and sliced into individual sections, get them outputted in .dxf file format and either get them water jet cut or send them to someone who has a CNC router. The latter would most likely be the cheapest and easiest way of going about it.
Thanks mate, to reduce cost I was thinking if I can get the file of the slices to the point of being able to print out my self and use them as template to transfer to timber then I cut it out.
But yes CNC would be good. And quick.
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Old 02-19-2016, 06:42 PM
Bart Bart is offline
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So I guess this leads me to this question.
Has anyone used 3D scanners them selves? I found this one but like anything you get what you pay for. Usually the cheaper it is the crappier. Some cases it may not mean crappier.
Currently I'm getting a quote to have it done. But also looking at the possibility of scanning myself. The link below shows a 3D scanner attachment to a Ipad.
I think ill contact them and at least ask what type of file it produces and can I use to print full scale templates.

http://structure.io/?gclid=CJqS1piMhcsCFQsQvQodGz0Inw

Then there's this which appears more professional???

http://www.scorptec.com.au/product/S...FRJwvAodldgFpA
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Old 02-24-2016, 08:45 AM
cliffrod cliffrod is online now
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Bart, the methods I will demonstrate this Friday at Redneck Roundup ( & then post to video for all here asap) are what I use to enlarge 2D patterns. No computers, significant expense or typical limiting things like plotter size, just the time to do it. Very Simple and very accurate. Detail level is dependent upon how many points are replicated.

If you are enlarging by a whole integer multiple (3x, 4x, 10x) it is somewhat more simple because you only need a straight line and calipers to calculate and capture new dimensions to apply to the pattern. That is part of what I'll demonstrate as well.

The problem often encountered if that accuracy OR inaccuracy is also multiplied by the same factor. Little models/patterns have to be perfectly accurate to enlarge in big steps. I was trained to enlarge by a factor <2 if possible each time, correcting as needed before the next enlargement unless the model/pattern is really good. This is not always practical, but this is still SOP for some of the best foundry and portrait sculptors with whom I work.

These methods, which work very easily for 2D enlargement, were actually taught to me to use for accurate 3D enlargement. That is not as simple, well beyond the scope of a brief workshop and probably not as relevant here. I realize many here will not use these methods in lieu of modern technology. Even so, they provide a means to easily double check the accuracy of work, whether 2D or 3D.
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Old 02-24-2016, 09:04 AM
toreadorxlt toreadorxlt is offline
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yup, I scanned a few cars with an Artec EVA scanner. Most dirty scan data should be interpreted, then cut into sections for use when making bucks.
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Old 02-25-2016, 07:59 AM
Bart Bart is offline
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Awesome cliffrod. Ill watch the video with enthusiasm
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