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  #301  
Old 03-19-2015, 03:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by celibaterifle View Post
Marcus

Spent the past few days reading the whole thread. Very impressive work. Picked up several tips along the way.

Look forward to future updates.

Nice to hear from you Jim.
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  #302  
Old 03-21-2015, 06:56 AM
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Was not sure if to add this to the thread or not but might be the last post for a while as going to tackle floor tiling for the first time after ripping up all the carpet today in the house, apart from the gym.


Picked up this 1920's cast iron seat from a horse drawn cultivator at the Ballarat swap meet.


I had given it a clean with a wire brush and showed no cracks.


Didn't have my citric acid bath setup so thought I would use the old molasses technique of removing rust.


I had actually bought this jar to put on my toast like I used to some times as a kid. Didn't like it at all now so might as well make some use from it.


It was only a 500 gram jar so was not going to get much solution from it as most do a 10 to 1 ratio with water with it. This meant only 5 litres of hot water could be added but was not enough to cover it. I threw in a couple of litres of white vinegar with it but still ended up with about a 20 to 1 ratio with extra water I needed. I even displaced as much as I could by filling any space with bricks.


You can see the reaction that happens with it and this was after about 1 week. At about this time it goes from smelling slightly sweet to unpleasant!


Being a weak solution I thought I would check it after 2 weeks of soaking.


Hit with a high pressure sprayer.


Looks like it is good enough to paint now. I dried it with compressed air and then a blow torch and had to be really quick to coat it with primer to seal it all.


Now to make it into a stool. For a base I pulled another of my old Jeep wheels out from under the house.


After a though scrubbing and wire brushing, I welded a piece of tubing to the base from both sides. The top I reduced for the fitting I had for it.


Bent some plate to suit the base of the seat and welded it onto an old office chair height adjuster.


As the tubing was zinc coated, I hit it all with some etch primer.


Drilled out the centre of the hub cap and made a plate to hold some wheel studs in from behind so I could fit some wheel nuts as well.


Can get enough adjustment to suit what I do with it.


All done and more comfortable than it looks. The top of the wheel make a great foot rest and why I left the wheel complete rather than just using the centre.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 08-02-2017 at 06:17 AM.
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  #303  
Old 03-21-2015, 03:02 PM
markyb markyb is offline
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Hi Marcus, I know your busy with your new floor but when you get a spare 5 minutes could you knock up one of those stools for me ...........no rush next couple of weeks would be fine !!!!!!!!!.Keep up the great work, look forward to the next update.Mark.
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  #304  
Old 03-21-2015, 05:38 PM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
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Let nothing go to waste...! Great job Marcus.
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  #305  
Old 03-22-2015, 02:37 AM
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Lovely work mate
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  #306  
Old 03-22-2015, 05:38 AM
celibaterifle celibaterifle is offline
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Nice job on the stool. That molasses sure gets a lovely odour to it!
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  #307  
Old 03-23-2015, 03:36 AM
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Thanks for the comments.

The smell was not bad at all for the first week, but after that it just got progressively worse. Had to move the tub out of the work shop and into the parts shed and you could still smell it walking past.
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  #308  
Old 05-04-2015, 07:49 PM
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Funny how something can suddenly annoy you. The top of the lower pressing, where it runs into the cowl section, pulls in as it is not wide enough there.


I could have just had some body filler applied over it, but it would be better done right if possible.


Hard to see but I cut horizontally just below the top fold using a 1mm cutoff disc.


I was was careful to pull it outwards without levering off the cowl as would have bent it in. Only had to move it less than 3mm-1/8".


After tacking to hold its position, I did what I call tack stacking to fill the gap. I didn't jump all over the place but started at one end went right through to the other by placing a tack, and then just before it loses its orange colour, quickly tack again, half still on the last tack. This leaves enough time to stop blow through from being too hot and you get better fusion to the last tack than you would if cold. No pin holes this way. Can see it left a even HAZ, (heat effected zone), which is important for controlling distortion. No hammer work was needed afterwards.


Used a 7" flap wheel to clean off the weld and works quite well. Had not used it before and less likely to leave dips.


Think it flows better now. Both sides were done the same.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 08-02-2017 at 06:11 AM.
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  #309  
Old 05-04-2015, 10:24 PM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
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Nicely done as ever Marcus. Stuff like that is annoying and of course you see it every time you look at the vehicle. Nobody else would spot it, but you know it is there.

My 30 year old WIA Mig has a stitch setting which is ideal for just such jobs. When you get it right you can build up an edge and it looks a lot like a Tig stack of dimes. Err have recovered my ride on blades probably 10 times with this feature (tightwad). Nice just being able to focus on the increment to move, rather than the triggering as well. Good old Aussie machine...!
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  #310  
Old 05-05-2015, 03:13 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post


Funny how something can suddenly annoy you. The top of the lower pressing, where it runs into the cowl section, pulls in as it is not wide enough there.

.
Sure can and does, I have lots of those little annoyances in my house, (things out of square and marked paint, dings and scratches on the roller door, just after it was installed.) and I pretty much notice them everyday.

Nice touch and finish, you will now sleep comfortable at night.
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