#21
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Nowadays why would you want to use anything but Tig rods or Mig wire? Wouldn't that rebar wire be extremely low grade stuff? 10lb tube of ER70S2 1/16 Tig rod costs me $35 at Airgas. That stuff is plenty soft, is saving 20 bucks really worth it?
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Chris (trying to be the best me I can be) Last edited by Chris_Hamilton; 05-11-2017 at 09:08 PM. |
#22
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Well if you think hitting more than twice as hard on a weld with MIG wire is worth the effort then go for it.
Mike |
#23
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Quote:
It is the alloy of the body metal you are welding. Back when I was working on 15-20+ old cars per year, I joined the de facto "body metal connoisseur club" at HAC. Auburn-Cord-Dues-Graham had one flavor, GM, another, Chrysler, another, Ford another.... and Lafayette, Moon, Star, Neptune, Railton, Ruxton, etc etc something else. I liked Chrysler. Other guys liked GM. and so on. But the filler could be a help - or a hindrance, when butt welding and planishing sections. For instance, Halvorson and I did a 1929 Ford Mail truck, with me setting up the cowl, front fenders, hood, shell and core support - while Gene set up the aprons, boards, and rear fenders. I lucked out and got the "last NOS" RF fender, but Gene had to section the RR from 3, and butt welded and metal finished the works. Ford used hard steel in that era, so he used the RG60 on the Ford, whereas I used the RG45 on Chrysler. We used tie wire/mechanics wire on the soft GM V16 Cad limo. But that is just us, and ER70D2, or S3 or S6 would be just fine.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
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