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  #31  
Old 04-06-2010, 01:05 AM
Overkill Overkill is offline
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Default Panograph

Ron Covell gave several seminars at Mike Coopers house. Mike Cooper you may know from the building of the Tubester 32 Ford Truck in Street Rodder magazine. Mike is an artist who wanted the truck he saw in high school, and it got a little out of hand. Yes, it's as impressive in person as it was in the articles.

Mike built a 1 to 1 Panograph, as I recall, it's 10' x10' x10'. It has a router mounted in it, and he would change the bits as more detail was needed. One of the items he duplicated was a female (sans clothes). So he has this full sized, naked, wooden sculpture in his house - in the back bathroom. The bathroom seminar attendees were allowed to use. Now, I knew she was there from the conversations. But rounding the door into the bathroom, only to have this naked wooden gal pop out from behind the door - I did get startled.

A panograph would simply transfer the fiberglass body shape onto something that could be cut (wood, foam, or?) It would simply duplicate the glass body. With what it would cost to build, I think you could find someone's unfinished fiberglass kit car for less money.

Here's a labor intensive idea. Use Richards 1/2 bridge, but instead of all the sticks, use a single laser measuring device. Place it in the proper hole, take the reading, and move to the next hole. All the readings then entered into the proper CAD program to develop a wire form. Stationed determined, print stations out on a plotter, mount to plywood and cut out.

Likely not an upgrade from Richards design, just a way to get it in a computer if you so desire.

John
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  #32  
Old 04-06-2010, 09:42 AM
StuUK
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Interesting thread that proves there are many ways to skin the buck cat. Everyday is a school day!

My latest creation below. Created with a combination of plans, scanning, pictures and other methods. 425 parts.................

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  #33  
Old 04-06-2010, 10:15 AM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Beautiful work. Please do an intro and add a signature. Are you "Whitney Payne"? That looks similar to a buck he did last year.
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  #34  
Old 04-06-2010, 10:25 AM
StuUK
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Hi Kerry,

To answer your questions, yes I am the chap formerly known as Whitney Paine.

To introduce myself, I use computer techniques to recreate old cars and part of that process sometimes involves creating a buck.

My website is here - www.3dengineers.co.uk if anyone wants to know more. I held off putting this on my initial reply as I did not want to be thrown off the forum for advertising.
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  #35  
Old 04-06-2010, 10:31 AM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Hi Stuart, please add a signature. Welcome. We don't have a anti-ad policy like MetalMeet. As long as you don't get stupid about it we welcome your announcements and contributions. We have a free classifieds forum where you can list your products, services, and prices. Yep, you can post prices here too..

It's a whole new world

Btw, the build saga which you had posted on MetalMeet was lost (along with 3 1/2 years of other posts) when the new admins screwed up the upgrade. Feel free to post it here.
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  #36  
Old 04-06-2010, 11:11 AM
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87hdrush 87hdrush is offline
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Stuart I've run across your site while searching photo rendering. Great stuff, nice to have you here. This thread is really producing a wide variety of options for building a buck. From low tech bondo to high tech laser and they are ALL good ways to get the job done.
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  #37  
Old 04-06-2010, 12:10 PM
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Z5Roadster Z5Roadster is offline
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Only been away a few hrs and ideas coming from all directions, the encoder/touch pad idea is over my head but like Carey said 'What a generation that I have lived in. It is amazing how technology has advanced in these few(6+) decades'


Stuart, thanks for coming along with us fantastic work, who knows David Kirkham could be along in a bit, probably not its all in his manual. (have put a foot note below your photo thanks)


Well this is where I'm at
20100406_0599.jpg
just something I've tacked together to see if it would be an option, would need to add some side supports to stiffen it up.


Here's a question. Is there an absolute zero point on a body shell, and if so where?

Thanks guys
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Last edited by Z5Roadster; 04-06-2010 at 03:21 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #38  
Old 04-06-2010, 04:51 PM
Bob Bob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z5Roadster View Post
Here's a question. Is there an absolute zero point on a body shell, and if so where?

Thanks guys
By zero point, I'm thinking like a side to side planar cut somewhere. In the aircraft world, that is mostly some distance out in front. I have never figured out what defines exactly where, and I think for what your doing, just make it in front by a few feet to ten or more feet. That becomes Sta 0.00 and keeps all the measurements going aft in the plus side of the "X" axis of the body. Most of the time, again in aircraft, we have a Buttock Line which is dead center of the body and measure right and left with left hand being minus measurements. That becomes "Y" 0.00. And one more plane, the Water Line. We used to use the floor for that, but have gone to the center of the cylinder of the fuselage where there is a cylinder. In your case, I'd use the floor. And that becomes "Z" 0.00.

Bob
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  #39  
Old 04-06-2010, 05:43 PM
abarthdave abarthdave is offline
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I almost think you need to have the front wheel center as your ZERO point,

That way you have a point to work from , I guess I would always have the chassis wheelbase known and this would work,

a point out in no where land will work, but again make it a fixed number in front of the front wheel center,

this way you can draw a grid pattern on the ground if need be....

at least thats my plan !

Cheers
Dave
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  #40  
Old 04-06-2010, 05:50 PM
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tmedley tmedley is offline
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Has it been suggested to make a flexible shape pattern and mark the points of the pins on the shape pattern before pulling it off. To help with adjustments to panels while shaping them. If you knew where the pins touched the shape pattern on the original body and where they touched on the buck it would help to know where to move the metal if you were having a problem during the shaping process.

just my 2c.
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