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  #31  
Old 12-29-2018, 08:34 PM
AllyBill AllyBill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldnek View Post
Hi Dave,
Looks like your a little tight on the wheel arch opening, that needs a slight stretch along there to release the curve you have. keep wheeling out there, if the top looks good then stay away from there as you will change the shape. Don't go to far or it will lift the other way.
You are doing a fine job so far, specially for a beginner.
The return looks great.
Hi Dave,

I agree. I'd carefully wash out the panel around the wheel arch opening and it'll come flat. Maybe a tiny amount at the other end of the rule too. I'm looking at the pic of the humped panel with the rule across it and big No.1 in the foreground.

Will
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  #32  
Old 12-30-2018, 07:30 AM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
Peter
This is my E-wheel you may have seen one of these before Attachment 50686
I have two sets of anvils for it a 3" and a 2" set.
In the 3" set I have 3.25" 4" 8" 12" 24" 36"
The 2" set goes from just under 3' to 12".
They are Hoosier pattern wheels from Joe and Peggy.
They are full radius wheels.
All my wheels are hardened upper and the anvils
That way if I drop one it doesn't get a ding or mark in it.
I can also wheel a Mig weld joint after I dress the weld down without damaging my wheels
When I try to do a panel I use a radius gauge to check all the shapes on the panel.
Then I try to use the flattest anvil I can with out scratching or gouging or other wise mucking up the panel
I tend to change anvils a lot on a panel like the one with the reverse.
The shape changes rapidly from a 4" radius at the top rear to a 12" then A 24" at the wheel arch.
At the door jam It goes from 4" quickly to dead flat above the body line.

I see in your DVD"s that you have maybe four anvils:
Dave
For any stretching on the wheel arch and door gap (before the return) I would use the anvil shown on the wheel pic, then if you need more shape use the next size up, but with a bit less pressure
Peter
PS LOL.... Yea I have seen those wheels before, as a matter of fact I have 15 of them on my shop floor. Also... is that beside the wheel a E type jag?
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Making Monaro Quarter panel:
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  #33  
Old 12-30-2018, 09:18 AM
blue62 blue62 is offline
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Peter
yes that is an E-type Jaguar a 1969.
looked like this a few years ago. Name:  002.jpg
Views: 1219
Size:  31.9 KB
I decided to restore it
It got me started on this metal shaping journey.
I purchased a very expensive repair panel for it.
The front valance that makes up the front under part of the bonnet. Had it shipped in from England.
By the time I got around to fitting it there was no way it would fit on the car.
I couldn't send it back because it was a special order and to much time had lapsed. I ended up cutting it up and using it to repair the original valance.
I vowed then to never purchase another panel. I would learn to make them.

I came across the Austin Healey about a year and a half ago.Name:  P1010647.jpg
Views: 1081
Size:  82.5 KB
I thought hell I can restore the Healey in about a year
So I set the Jag on the back burner.
Then this past July I purchased the 2000 Porsche Boxster S that is under the white cover behind the E-wheel.Name:  P1010646.jpg
Views: 1014
Size:  80.3 KB
Got it for a very good price. very low miles. Bought it just as a toy something to drive and rip through the curves with very fun car and I like sports cars
P.S. thanks for all your help
Attached Images
File Type: jpg austin.jpg (76.4 KB, 165 views)
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  #34  
Old 12-30-2018, 04:29 PM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
Peter
yes that is an E-type Jaguar a 1969.
looked like this a few years ago. Attachment 50699
I decided to restore it
It got me started on this metal shaping journey.
I purchased a very expensive repair panel for it.
The front valance that makes up the front under part of the bonnet. Had it shipped in from England.
By the time I got around to fitting it there was no way it would fit on the car.
I couldn't send it back because it was a special order and to much time had lapsed. I ended up cutting it up and using it to repair the original valance.
I vowed then to never purchase another panel. I would learn to make them.

I came across the Austin Healey about a year and a half ago.Attachment 50701
I thought hell I can restore the Healey in about a year
So I set the Jag on the back burner.
Then this past July I purchased the 2000 Porsche Boxster S that is under the white cover behind the E-wheel.Attachment 50702
Got it for a very good price. very low miles. Bought it just as a toy something to drive and rip through the curves with very fun car and I like sports cars
P.S. thanks for all your help
Dave
Last Year one of my client come to me with a E type Jag and a stack of parts that he brought from England, it included 2 lower valance panel,(front and rear) 2 quarters, 2 door skins, 2 front guards, and a rear panel panel and a few other bits and pieces . I had the same problem nothing fitted, it was either too long or too short or the wrong shape So I suggested that he could sells the imported panels (which he did) and I made all new ones
Peter
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Metalshaping tools and dvds
www.handbuilt.net.au

Metalshaping clip on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg

Making Monaro Quarter panel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM
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  #35  
Old 01-01-2019, 08:13 PM
blue62 blue62 is offline
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I tend to jump around a lot trying to learn this metal shaping thing.
SO I will set what ever I am working on aside for a while (like the fender).
Then try something like bodywork.
After watching Peter do the door jamb on the Monaro Quarter and demonstrating moving a line in another DVD.
I thought I would try my hand at adjusting some shut gaps using what Peter shows.

I used a small blocking hammer to create some metal along the line I wanted to adjust.Name:  P1010660.jpg
Views: 814
Size:  74.8 KB That line happened to be the bottom of the trunk openingName:  P1010648.jpg
Views: 809
Size:  71.6 KB or Boot opening if your using the proper British term
The area where the license plate mounts on the aluminum shroud was pushed in thus pulling the bottom of the trunk lid opening down. I used a slapper and dolly to remove the dent. Then I used the blocking hammer, a hammer and dolly to adjust the shut gaps the best I could.Name:  P1010649.jpg
Views: 824
Size:  75.7 KB

I had never done anything with Aluminum before so it was a little scary
I didn't take any before pictures.
I thought it turned out ok for a first try.
I see in the pictures that it looks like there is a dent just below the handle (in the shroud) but it is lighting.
The lower left corner is a little tightName:  P1010650.jpg
Views: 809
Size:  57.9 KB maybe I can adjust that out in the fine tuning stage
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Last edited by blue62; 01-01-2019 at 08:36 PM.
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  #36  
Old 01-01-2019, 10:12 PM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Dave
Anything can be done with a bit of patience and practice you have done well!
Peter
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Metalshaping tools and dvds
www.handbuilt.net.au

Metalshaping clip on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg

Making Monaro Quarter panel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM

Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 01-02-2019 at 06:58 AM.
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  #37  
Old 01-02-2019, 12:11 AM
blue62 blue62 is offline
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Thanks Peter means a lot coming from you.
I pull your DVD'S out every couple of months and watch them again.
Then try to apply what you teach to what I am working on.
I can manipulate the hammer and dolly pretty well now. learned it all from The DVD'S
Never touched a body hammer or dolly until about 18 months ago.
knowing what the metal is going to do when I hit it or wheel it or do what ever to it is the hard part.
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  #38  
Old 01-02-2019, 06:57 AM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
Thanks Peter means a lot coming from you.
I pull your DVD'S out every couple of months and watch them again.
Then try to apply what you teach to what I am working on.
I can manipulate the hammer and dolly pretty well now. learned it all from The DVD'S
Never touched a body hammer or dolly until about 18 months ago.
knowing what the metal is going to do when I hit it or wheel it or do what ever to it is the hard part.


knowing what the metal is going to do when I hit it or wheel it or do what ever to it is the hard part.[/QUOTE]

Yes that is so true but with enough practice and patience it will get easier each time
Peter
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P.Tommasini

Metalshaping tools and dvds
www.handbuilt.net.au

Metalshaping clip on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg

Making Monaro Quarter panel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM
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  #39  
Old 01-02-2019, 08:15 PM
blue62 blue62 is offline
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Well back at the fenderName:  P1010605.jpg
Views: 726
Size:  68.8 KB I tried my hand at taking the lump out of the panel I made of area 2. I followed what Peter and others said to do. It is better but not there yet. I decided to work on that panel maybe five to ten minutes a day else I will spend hours trying to get the lump out and destroy it
Some months ago I tried to do ares 3&4 as one pieceName:  P1010623.jpg
Views: 710
Size:  81.0 KBbut It was to big to handle and control the way I wanted and where the bottom line folds over there is a lot of metal to shrink and deal with. So I decided to try it in two pieces. For a first try at a piece that size I got close thoughName:  P1010624.jpg
Views: 705
Size:  80.7 KB.
So I have been working on area 4. In the first picture I couldn't figure out how to bring all that metal over and keep the shape. so I left just enough material for a flange then welded a piece on.Name:  P1010632.jpg
Views: 741
Size:  80.5 KB There is a body line in this piece that I didn't get straight or the right shape when I put it through my bead roller. so it is practice piece 1Name:  P1010625.jpg
Views: 721
Size:  76.4 KB
I got out Peters DVD on doing the door jamb on the Monaro Quarter. studied how he brought all that metal over. Figured same principle different application I will give it a go.Name:  P1010628.jpg
Views: 696
Size:  79.5 KB I tried bring the metal over and tuck shrinking I also used my Lancaster shrinker on it because I had never tried tuck shrinking until now I got the metal over but I have a twist in the panel and I lost control of the shape. So practice piece #2Name:  P1010630.jpg
Views: 703
Size:  80.5 KB
I decided I needed to learn this tuck shrinking business so I rounded the heal on a hammer.Name:  P1010652.jpg
Views: 725
Size:  79.5 KB I would round the heal some then try a tuck shrink then round the heal more. This is where it is now.Name:  P1010667.jpg
Views: 714
Size:  68.3 KB
I think it really shrinks the metal well once I started to get the hang of it. Front side of a shrink partly done.Name:  P1010661.jpg
Views: 727
Size:  78.2 KB back sideName:  P1010662.jpg
Views: 722
Size:  75.5 KB
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  #40  
Old 01-03-2019, 07:44 PM
blue62 blue62 is offline
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After rereading what Peter T. said to do to get the hump out of Panel #2, I spent about 30-45 minutes in 5-10 minute sessions. working on removing the hump.
Here is the before picture. Name:  P1010621.jpg
Views: 810
Size:  71.7 KB

After working the hump down.
Name:  P1010670.jpg
Views: 805
Size:  62.9 KB

I am wondering if when I turn the door jamb flange over and wire the wheel arch,will that flatten and true the rest of that area up or will it just lock in the lows and highs, and create a problem.
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