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Camper siding
Not really an automotive project I guess, but i thought it fit here better. Move if needed. My daugther bought a 1959 Mallard camper. Kinda cool, but it needs some love. They have replaced much rotted wood at the back etc. Near a window there is some rust and a couple other spots where they did not have to replace wood. The small holes above the window hold an awning and trim. They are OK.
The seam looks like a regular ductwork seam and I think I can bend that alright. This is 26 ga. and it seems to be galvanized, but it's hard to tell. my torch skills are probably not up to 26 ga and then throw the galvanizing in the mix and I am not sure how to join a patch to the existing. I do have Kent's little Meco, but I am concerned about the wood and insulation behind this area. I could replace the length over to the door (far right in window pic) and only have a seam at the first light scallop crease. I was thinking maybe use a body panel adhesive to join the patch. I could flange where the patch goes under the existing. I hope that makes sense. Does anyone have any other ideas? There are two other areas that are similiar and still have the wood underneath. I guess i have to read up also on why my pics are so big.
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Kevin B |
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Yes, that is a Pittsburgh seam. There is a male and female and the female snaps over the male and locks it in place. You can make them manually but it's tricky. Sheet metal shops use a Pittsburgh machine to do it. If you go to one, they will probably give you some scraps you can run through their machine. My first real job was a sheet metal helper in an HVAC shop.
Unless you plan on removing the skin (which will create a bunch more problems with the structure because the wooden structure is probably in worse shape than she/you think it is), I'd think that panel adhesive over a backer/lap joint would be the best solution. It will not give you a perfect paint result and probably show in the sun but it might be the best solution. These old wood framed travel trailers are WAAAAAY past their design life.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
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Thanks Kerry! They spent ALOT of time remaking laminated wood bows and reinforced their joints with steel etc. They have a 67 C10 Chevy PU with great patina and the camper should just match it so well when they are done. I'll try to post a pic.
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Kevin B Last edited by Kevinb71; 12-15-2017 at 02:16 PM. Reason: Add picture |
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I love it. We went to the RV Hall of Fame in Elkhart IN this spring. Quite a few early RVs from the first model T 'house cars' to mid 80's. Some of the 50's stuff is really quite advanced for the time.
If your Daughter hasn't seen it, tell her to find "The Long Long Trailer" with Lucille Ball.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
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Quote:
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Skip Wilson |
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Hi Kevin,
It looks like that may be a grooved flat lock seam, aka pipe lock seam. I think the Pittsburg lock Kerry mentioned is the other common ductwork lock but is usually used at a corner joint. This may be the same solution you described, but it occurs to me that you could cut out the lock seam that's damaged all the way to the door and re flange both resulting edges to accept a new piece having the mating flanges on it, (maybe sized to line up with remaining scallop creases) and slide that in from the window side, to the door. You would have two locks where once there was one, but it might be a clean repair. When used in building construction, flat lock is used without solder or sealant in pitches greater than 6/12, see: (https://www.copper.org/applications/...derations.html) but on a travelling vehicle, I would think a sealant might be appropriate, and I'm not sure what that might look like. If there was sufficient support under the joints, you might also be able to under-bend one set of flanges say, to 45 degrees or so, allowing you to fit them together in place, then gradually close the seam with a mallet and spoon. The sealant may be in tape form laid into the joint before assembly. ?? Mark |
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Thanks for some more ideas Mark!
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Kevin B |
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http://vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/
Vintage trailer talk, thats where you need to go. Most of these old trailers are Aluminum siding. You can get new from Hemmit Valley RV. They carry a thicker siding than most, they have it in .030 I don’t remeber off the top of my head original thickness, but it’s less. 20 maybe. Also all the skins need to come off and be resealed at all the joints regardless of replacing the skin or reusing the original. This will also let you properly check the structure for rot, and most likely you will want to add som insulation, or at least a new vapor barrier. http://cannedhamtrailers.com/ And you can also check out canned ham trailers .com. Larry is on youtube and has a bunch of videos on how to do it right. I’m on Vintage trailer talk under Dragon Wagons if you need anything.
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CJ Dansie Last edited by Shobra; 12-20-2017 at 12:06 AM. |
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Mark is correct. It is lock seam. However it is also called Pittsburgh lock seam because Pittsburgh made a machine that did that and also the "S'es" and "Drives" used to join two pieces together on the ends. It's been 50 years They made many different machines. Most the ones I used had multiple dies and functions.
Here is a link to a nice pictorial of all the various sheet metal seaming processes. Someone posted a photo of a lock seam closer just a short time back. http://www.tpub.com/steelworker2/22.htm I agree about the sealant. In the RV world silicone is a 4 letter word because 1- you can't paint it and 2- you can't get it off. DICOR makes a self leveling sealant that is very popular for any roof penetrations. I don't think it would be correct for side seam sealant but I expect they have a similar product.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
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When I built my airstream like camper I relied heavily on sikaflex 221. No leaks thus far. The airstream dealer near me swore by it. I’d give that a go. It can be had on mcmaster cheap. If you take that skin off you’ll be upset you did lol
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Steve |
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