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  #711  
Old 09-09-2017, 11:32 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Next are the extensions for the door frames. These have to be pretty low profile so they won't hit the hinge pillar/door jamb when closed. After cutting the blanks I used a radiused upper wheel and urethane lower in the bead roller to get the curve where they will join to the existing door frame and used the shrinker to bring in the shape to match the skin.

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I switched over to the stepping dies on the bead roller to put a step in where the hem of the door skin will rest. I offset the lower die by putting an eighth inch washer behind it. Not required but gives the step a better look.

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Before I closed these up I put some spray bomb primer on the back sides. There won't be any access to these areas after the panels are welded and I don't want any bare steel left to rust out later.

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I got the right side welded in and hemmed the skin. I got as far as tacking in the left side and that was it for today.

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  #712  
Old 09-11-2017, 11:23 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I finished welding up the left door and covered the door check hole. I can't do the top edge of the door yet. I need the fire wall cut and the windshield frame in place first. I found a windshield frame in Arizona from a 58 Buick and I'm in the process of getting it to Ohio where it belongs.

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In the meantime I need to get the back edge of the fenders to match up to the new shape of the doors. I rechecked the car to make sure it was still level. Next, I set up a plumb line at the back of the car in the exact center. I set up the laser in front of the car lining up the plumb line in back and the center of the windshield frame. Once I established the center line of the car I adjusted the hood so the center of the hood followed the laser line exactly. Once that is done I'm done with the laser and I hung the fenders getting even gaps against the sides of the hood. Now I can close the door against the fender and mark the shape onto the back edge of the fender, plus a 5/16" flange.

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I pulled the fenders back off so I can cut them. Since the back edge will be shortened, The upper rear fender bolts will need to be moved forward 2 1/2" to the new location of the rear edge of the fender. I made a plate and welded a nut to the back side and added that to the perch where the fender rests. I'll knock the old cage nut out and weld that hole up.

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Next, I cut out the old fender brace and saved it. It's .060" sheet and I only have 1/8" or 18 ga. Neither is suitable and the originals are in nice shape.

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I trimmed the back edge of the fender and folded the flange over to 90 degrees. In order to do that without distorting the fender, especially near the top where the curve is tight, I used a pair of sheet metal crimping pliers that I shortened the crimping blades on. The first picture is a piece of scrap. You can see theperfectly spaced tucks the pliers make. These pliers are designed to crimp 24ga heating duct tubes. The blades are long and you don't have the leverage to work 18ga steel. By cutting the blades short, you increase the leverage and it is very easy to put a series of tucks into a small flange. I captured them by using a regular steel dolly and a wooden mallet. Same process as a steel hammer and a wood stump.

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Last edited by Jack 1957; 09-11-2017 at 11:33 PM.
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  #713  
Old 09-12-2017, 03:22 PM
dwmh dwmh is offline
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Nice job and advice using the crimping pliers Jack.
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  #714  
Old 09-12-2017, 09:58 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Looking good Jack!

Thanks for sharing with us.

Steve
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  #715  
Old 09-13-2017, 06:47 PM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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Wow that is great work! I learned something today! Thanks for showing us the process! It is going to be nice when it is done!
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  #716  
Old 09-13-2017, 09:57 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I changed my mind on using the original fender reinforcement. I can make the new on with 18ga and add an extra mounting tab about half way between the upper and lower mounting points.
I made the new ones and started with the left fender. Using the shrinker, I started carefully bringing in the profile of the fender and test fitting numerous times along the way.

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I made new upper mounting tabs out of 1/8" plate and welded them to the inner reinforcement. Then test fit the fender to the car to check alignment to the door and rocker.

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Next, I am going to replace the heel of the fender since the original is in pretty rough shape and I want to slightly sweep the rear of the wheel opening back. I marked where I wanted it and made a template for the new panel.

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  #717  
Old 09-13-2017, 10:12 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I cut out the panel and started wheeling in a very slight crown and longitudinal bends, mostly bent inward at the bottom. I tipped a 1" flange along the bottom where the fender will bolt to the rocker.

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The wheel opening is a rolled radius along the edge. I'm going to use a smaller radiused wheel on the bead roller and make multiple passes to get a larger radius. I ground a groove in a skateboard wheel and rolled the first pass. In between passes on the bead roller, I used the shrinker or stretcher as needed to maintain the shape of the panel. Then made a second and third pass. Again, shrink or stretch in between passes. The results were pretty good but needed a little finish work on a T dolly with a mallet.

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I cut the old lower fender off and clamped the new one on. I'll check everything tomorrow and weld it up.

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  #718  
Old 09-15-2017, 07:03 AM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Looks great Jack.
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  #719  
Old 09-15-2017, 09:04 AM
gooberdog gooberdog is offline
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Just another inspiring post Jack. And thank you for being so conscientious on documenting your project. I know how hard it is to remember to take that picture and write up that post. For those of us living vicariously through you, thank you
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  #720  
Old 09-15-2017, 08:45 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Nice work dumbass! First day on the job?
Somehow I managed to screw up the bend along the lower edge of the fender. I missed it by about 3/16" at the front.

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It was a real headache straightening that out since the inner brace was already welded in. I had to relocate the bend by hand with hammers and dollies but I got it looking presentable. I don't know what happened but I guess that from taking the fender on and off numerous times, the core support must have shifted and I did not catch it until after I had marked and bent the lower edge. So, I went around and checked level and alignment yet again. Made adjustments and mounted the fender to check the fit. It's good now so I cut the front of the rocker to match the fender. I also need to make a bracket for the rear edge of the fender to the firewall while everything is in alignment. There are three bolts along the lower edge and one at the top of the fender which would normally be plenty but the fender reinforcement that I made is thinner than the original so to compensate for that, I'm adding another bracket half way between the top and bottom bolts.

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After making the cut on the rocker, I made a cap that matches the radius of the wheel opening lip and welded that in.

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So I put everything back together again and I have a good fit everywhere. The swept rear edge of the wheel opening is one of those things that no one will ever notice but it works with the angle of the A pillar and the angle of the rear cut of the back fenders. It works with the whole of the car. People usually don't notice this kind of thing because it looks natural. Expected. You would only notice if all these various things were NOT aligned.
There are a lot of lumps and bumps all over this fender. It will probably be another day's work to get it straightened out. Nothing major, just a lot of minor stuff.

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