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Old 11-08-2017, 11:12 PM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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Default Double layer of fender metal question

Hi Group,

Newbie question about a front fender for a (British car) Morris Minor.

The edge that is part of the door opening or the "A" post has a rolled edge on the fender which puts 2 pieces of metal together to form a 180* 1/8" bead.
The fender has rusted from the inside out in a 2" length x 2" width of the sandwich edge. I have cut it out and formed a new piece ready to weld in.

My question is, with these sandwich panel edges and other double layer body work that is exposed to the elements, is it advisable to use seam sealer to close these areas after the metal work is done, or is this going to magnify the problem later?

Alternative ideas always welcome.

I'm having a great time forming new metal. I look forward to any suggestions.

TX
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Old 11-09-2017, 02:26 AM
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any repairs i did while living in the rusty isle lol, i put a small amount of urethane sealer between the joints but not right up to the welded edge. you could just epoxy paint the part before fitting, same effect but different
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Old 11-09-2017, 04:07 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Hi Chris.

I have just done the similar repair to a Hillman Minx Estate wagon, The inner panel are flanged on the guards which are fully welded to the body. Epoxy is not good for that area if you are hammering down the flange as it cracks, I used Anchor Wax on the seams and will treat it further with wax again once the car is painted, I wouldn't use any sealer on flanges unless completely covered as Neil mentioned.
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:16 AM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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I appreciate the responses. I will look into Anchor Wax, I assume this is a rust inhibitor coating applied when the work is all done on the sheet metal.

Always something new to learn.

TX
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:22 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldnek View Post
Hi Chris.

I have just done the similar repair to a Hillman Minx Estate wagon, The inner panel are flanged on the guards which are fully welded to the body. Epoxy is not good for that area if you are hammering down the flange as it cracks, I used Anchor Wax on the seams and will treat it further with wax again once the car is painted, I wouldn't use any sealer on flanges unless completely covered as Neil mentioned.
Now that is a fine method, John.
Thanks !!

( I knew that melting bees wax together with boiled linseed oil is also a very good preservative against weathering ...)
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Old 11-09-2017, 12:13 PM
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http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co...ive-fluid.html
For anyone else (like myself) that is unfamiliar with Ankor wax.
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Old 11-09-2017, 12:26 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co...ive-fluid.html
For anyone else (like myself) that is unfamiliar with Ankor wax.
Hmmmm - I wonder if Boeshield T-9 or LPS-3 would work as well - for those already having such on hand .... ??
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Old 11-09-2017, 08:31 PM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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Hi,

I would think that LPS-3 might do the trick, but I would want to test it with paint and see if it does anything to the paint.

I used it a few years ago to store a lathe and milling machine for 2 years in a unheated garage with no surface rust or other signs of a problem. The equipment is in the finished shop and works like a champ.

I'm not familiar with the other product Boeshield T9 but if it is like LPS-3 probably would work.

TX
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Old 11-10-2017, 05:57 AM
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Hi,

I'm not familiar with the other product Boeshield T9 but if it is like LPS-3 probably would work.

TX
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Chris
Boeing developed their Boeshield T9 when they were having problems with the LPS folks not getting the LPS3 out in good time. I've used both and they seem to be interchangeable.
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Old 11-10-2017, 06:26 AM
AllyBill AllyBill is offline
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This stuff is outstanding. Have left it on bare steel for years without any corrosion.

http://www.skygeek.com/ardrox-av-8-c...-compound.html

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