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  #1211  
Old 03-30-2020, 04:49 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
The cold tack method is what I have always used.
I do it that way to limit distortion just as you stated.
I have yet to have a weld crack while plannishing, but damn the weld is hard.
Are your welds any softer using your pulse method?
I find they are a bit softer and also I make sure to get them blue while grinding as softens them up a bit more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Hamilton View Post
WOW!
Marcus that front pan sure looks good.
Your eye for scaling up the size is perfect.
Thanks for sharing your pictures and thoughts.

Steve
Thank you.

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Originally Posted by cliffrod View Post
Looks fantastic, Marcus. I like hearing your experience and advice with MIG. It makes a lot of sense.
Just seems logical to me to what is going on.

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Originally Posted by Larry4406 View Post
Thank you as well. I have not heard of that pulsing technique for MIG.

What is this timer for automatic MIG pulsing you mentioned?
Something my MIG has. A spot timer for doing plug welds and I switched the tigger so I can just leave it held in and only stops when I release. Same that my TIG has as well.
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  #1212  
Old 03-30-2020, 09:51 PM
foamcar foamcar is offline
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I check this forum daily and am sorry I have not been following your great project Marcus. Being self quaranteened for 14 days due to traveling 1400 miles in USA I have spent the last 3 days catching up starting at page 1. What a treasure of info you have shared. Feels now like you are my neighbor. I am going to encourage my grandson to read thru all of this. You certainly have deserved all of the accolades you have received. What you do helps all of us to aspire to better metal shaping.

Looking forward to the rest of the story.

Phil Planck
Michigan USA
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  #1213  
Old 03-31-2020, 04:45 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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I check this forum daily and am sorry I have not been following your great project Marcus. Being self quaranteened for 14 days due to traveling 1400 miles in USA I have spent the last 3 days catching up starting at page 1. What a treasure of info you have shared. Feels now like you are my neighbor. I am going to encourage my grandson to read thru all of this. You certainly have deserved all of the accolades you have received. What you do helps all of us to aspire to better metal shaping.

Looking forward to the rest of the story.

Phil Planck
Michigan USA
Many thanks for your comments Phil.
Glad I was able to help a bit get through these interesting times that we are now facing. I have gone back to submitting more pictures and thoughts on things I do to help in some small way give people something to read and think about to pass the time.
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  #1214  
Old 03-31-2020, 06:54 AM
drivejunk drivejunk is offline
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Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
I have gone back to submitting more pictures and thoughts on things I do to help in some small way give people something to read and think about to pass the time.
I think that is nice of you.

Did I read right, above... where you said you get the weld blue when grinding? Thanks.
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  #1215  
Old 04-01-2020, 04:41 AM
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I think that is nice of you.

Did I read right, above... where you said you get the weld blue when grinding? Thanks.
Yes that it right. Best to use a grinding disc and not a flap disc to do this. The colour will disappear as you do lighter passes.
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  #1216  
Old 04-01-2020, 07:01 AM
drivejunk drivejunk is offline
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Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Yes that it right. Best to use a grinding disc and not a flap disc to do this. The colour will disappear as you do lighter passes.
Thanks. I have something I can try that on safely. Discoloration when grinding is something I have striven to avoid in the past, so I had to ask.
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  #1217  
Old 04-02-2020, 05:36 PM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Thanks. I have something I can try that on safely. Discoloration when grinding is something I have striven to avoid in the past, so I had to ask.
As did I.

I did everything to minimise distortion in the beginning and it was a very time consuming process. But as I became more confident in correcting welding distortion, I looked for faster methods.
The given reason why oxy is better than TIG that is better than MIG argument is how malleable the steel is afterwards. The slower the heating the better basically, but the more distortion you have to correct afterwards. So in the beginning removing the extra distortion took longer even though the metal was easier and more uniform to move.
Remember any process should still have good fit up and the correct shape before welding even starts to minimise the shaping needed and also to easily understand where the change in shape came from after welding. Exceptions to this is where I know a shape needs more shrinkage along the edge to be welded, I know that the welding will do that so will let the weld do it rather than correct it twice.
The bluing was also just a thought along that process of annealing where a long slow heat and cool leaves it more malleable afterwards. I have been doing it for a few years and it is purely based on that thought and my observations if it made a difference or not. I feel it does so continue to use it providing I can get a dolly behind it to correct any extra change from that heat.
I just kept this to myself for fear of being ridiculed, but finally decided to share it and let people hopefully try it before making that judgement and make their own minds up about it.
I do thank everyone here for not at least publicly debunking my thoughts the instant I put them out. It is just my ideas based on what I think is going on and the results I have observed. Each process still has its benefits and I will continue to use the TIG as well. There is a lot more satisfaction from doing that process and prefer it still on large low crown panels or where time is not a factor. I like learning new skills and getting a better MIG technique was part of that on sheet metal.
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