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  #111  
Old 06-16-2016, 07:07 AM
ozi jim's Avatar
ozi jim ozi jim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memphisrain View Post
Would you mind explaining how you machined such a nice round profile on the face? Are you doing a series of steps, or do you have another method?

I'm self-teaching myself machining, and would like to produce some nice organic profiles like that.



Thanks!
Thanks Greg I am gathering you like it.
The only way to get their is keep at it.

Memphis.

It took the second one to work it out.
The first one looked good ,the second I had to play with but it turned out fine in the end.
I found it was the repeating that was the issue, anyone can make one.
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I drew this to give you an idea, I have drawn the patterns off the wheel center so you can see it,in real life it is hard up.
It was just simple patterns as per drawing.
The total thickness is 40mm, I machined that first.
I then machined the floor and spigot in the center.
Top pattern I put the 55deg slope in running into the center.
The floor is 20 from the back face the highest point is 40mm ,I get that and the center spigot correct then the 55 is the only thing you need machine.

Pattern 2 do the outside angle till the pattern fits.
I made 2 in between cuts then I hit with a 3" sanding disk to knock off the edges,then a layered disk then emery tape all while the lathe is on.

To many cuts will get you into trouble, I do 4.

Jim
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Last edited by ozi jim; 06-16-2016 at 09:09 AM.
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  #112  
Old 06-16-2016, 07:51 AM
bobadame bobadame is offline
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That's how I've made English wheel lowers. Cut a bunch of facets then knock the corners off with a flap disc.
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  #113  
Old 06-16-2016, 09:21 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is online now
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It's great to see your build-up process, Jim.
This is some serious fab and really gets to the heart of component design and execution.
Thank you,
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  #114  
Old 06-16-2016, 09:54 AM
memphisrain memphisrain is offline
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Thank you very much, Jim, that helps a bunch!
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  #115  
Old 06-17-2016, 06:49 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Jim, I didn't know you were one of those Burt Munro kind of blokes, where you just do everything in your shed.
And it's bloody awesome, your work on this build is keeping invigorated and motivated for some ideas that i have.

Keep posting to wet our appetites, your doing a fantastic job.
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  #116  
Old 03-01-2017, 05:07 AM
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Progress???
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  #117  
Old 04-16-2017, 08:47 AM
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Does not feel like a lot considering the time that has lapsed but a lot of things came up over the last few months and it took me away from this project.
Over the last few weeks I got some done on the suspension.
The first thing made was the body profiles that sit directly above the axle lines.
This is so I make sure I am building under the body work..

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I placed the wheel and Tyre in the location and just start making links.
I have 2 lower laterals with a diagonal.
I upper lat and a trailing link.
The original cars had very much a gt40 set up with long trailing links. I want to get away from that for packaging reasons.

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Last edited by ozi jim; 04-16-2017 at 09:08 AM.
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  #118  
Old 04-16-2017, 08:51 AM
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Last edited by ozi jim; 04-16-2017 at 09:10 AM.
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  #119  
Old 04-16-2017, 08:57 AM
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The front I wanted removable brackets so that I have the flexibility to change roll centers further than the bracket allows by replacing it with another.

The lower arm inner joints are a fixed position, they go into a very simple jig which is a piece of ply with 3 holes drilled in the correct location to get the location of the 3 joints the same left and right.

The upper and lower sphericals are both 5/8 the housings I machined, all the left and right 1/2 rose joint adjusters I also machined.

The machined parts and tube work is all 4130 crome moly.

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  #120  
Old 04-16-2017, 09:14 AM
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the upper arm is split with a clevis.
All the camber caster is adjusted off the top arm.

Again brackets are removable and bolts pass in the vertical direction.
The reason for this was mainly to keep the joints in compression and contraction when loaded.

The front upper joint is in a fitting that has an outer L/H thread and a 1/2" inner R/H thread.
By rotating the threaded sleeve (the part the rose joint is screwed into) I can adjust without removing the bolt out of the upper inner joint.

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