#11
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Johnny Arial This forum is dedicated to Metal Shaping. Please stay on topic. |
#12
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Quote:
I used a 1" thick flat of aluminum plate instead of plywood and a nylon tool with my CP 4x rivet gun to do them. The noise drove me to build the bead roller. But it worked good, just like Johnny describes. Routed the plate the same as Johnny shows as well. I was doing stopped beads too.
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Bob |
#13
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Have it your way kids. I was shown how to do this by hand with a caulking iron by some goofball from Holland. I respected him. His name was Emile.
Bye, Bye Kids Mr no portfolio But a lot jammed up my ass over the years. Thanks. |
#14
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I thought we were sharing? I would love to see how to do it with a caulking tool. There are many different methods I just showed how I would have done it.
Why would you use a caulking tool, what is a caulking tool, will there be distortion. These are the same questions you asked me, will you not elaborate? I gave you no more then you gave me and I went down and did a demo, will you do the same?
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Johnny Arial This forum is dedicated to Metal Shaping. Please stay on topic. |
#15
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Quote:
Too much jammed up your ass to tell us the why? After you tell us that perhaps show the how. Unbelievable!! |
#16
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male vs female
imo it is a heck of a lot easier to make a male mold than a female mold. I'll deal
with the other issues later. Michael
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Michael |
#17
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Here is a old picture of making a hammer form so that I could make a featured line. Anything can be done by hand it just takes some thought and some trial and error,
To be able to capture all of the shape I made wire-form bondo buck/hammer form.I used 3/16'' rod and made a form around the troubled area. Then on the top side I added sheet-metal to capture the bondo. Real quick and dirty I just needed the metal to capture the bondo. I forgot to mention that I am doing this on the inside of the fender. After I had it made I waxed the inside of the fender, for a release agent. Then mixed up some bondo, I did not use as much hardener as usual because I needed some working time. I filled the cavity heavily then placed the wire form on it. I pressed it down to where it was about a 1/8'' from hitting the fender. Then after it dried I tapped it a few times with a rubber mallet and it released from the fender. I trapped the metal on the v section that stands the highest on the mold and chased it wit a wooden caulking tool, until it was tight to the mold. The coloring on the bondo helped, I was able to remove the panel and see where the metal was hitting and where it was not and I chased it accordingly. When I started this I had no idea if it would work or not but I knew I read it and seen the results, so I just went for it.
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Johnny Arial This forum is dedicated to Metal Shaping. Please stay on topic. |
#18
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Settle fellas...lol
Quote:
I think I may have rushed mine a little (I can get impatient sometimes) but the marring is my main concern and what danger it posses in case of a collision. BTW I know gal can be dangerous to weld so any parts will be cleaned away prior. Once the door skins are done and on the doors I will be getting them media blasted. Thanks for the replies..
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Chris S Project-1934 Reo Hot Rod Daily- 1964 Chevy Bel Air |
#19
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I have used these for years on galvanized, I am very happy with my results. I use them at home and at school as well.
Sorry for long link, 3M #8214 welding respirator is the product. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...BC31gv%29&rt=d 3M lists 5 different disposable "welding respirators" in their catalog, some, but not all list galvanized, be sure and check before buying if galvanized is what you are buying for.
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Mark from Illinois |
#20
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interesting
I find these sort of topics interesting, as clearly there are many ways to achieve the same result, One thing that stands out to me is that there some on here who do this stuff for a living and those just as a hobby and there is a big difference between opinions accordingly. Myself i was taught on the job, which means i didnt have the time to make all manner of jigs and dies for every job as no one would pay for that, hence my way will be different to a hobbiest. In reguards to making this door skin when i saw the sheet of galv i said to myself WTF!!, secondly failing to have access to a bead roller or recipco machine i would have done these two swage lines in a folder, and be fitting the skin to the frame before you had finished making your wooden bucks. now most of you would be saying to yourselves WTF, ??? And im not trying to be a smarty pants about it, just the way i was taught. OlD people arent completely usless, they have a life time of knowledge stuck in there heads, and they had to figure out ways to do things without fancy machinary, just what was available to them, it our responsibility to get that information before they all curl up and die taking it with them. They might be grumpy, smelly and arrogant at times but putting up with some of that is certainly worth the price.
Now here is a tip for making swages lines in a folder, if you look at a cross section you will see each swage actually has two folds, see if you can figure out the rest?? For curiosity sake im 33yrs old.
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Adam. Assumption is the Mother of all Sutff ups. Resto Rod Race. |
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