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  #11  
Old 11-12-2011, 06:30 PM
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I have also added them with a female mold.

http://allmetalshaping.com/showthrea...or+board+patch
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  #12  
Old 11-12-2011, 09:17 PM
Bob Bob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhnarial View Post
I have also added them with a female mold.

http://allmetalshaping.com/showthrea...or+board+patch
Don't know how I missed that post back then, but that's how I did beads back before I got my bead roller. Matter of fact, that's the reason I built the bead roller.

I used a 1" thick flat of aluminum plate instead of plywood and a nylon tool with my CP 4x rivet gun to do them. The noise drove me to build the bead roller.

But it worked good, just like Johnny describes. Routed the plate the same as Johnny shows as well. I was doing stopped beads too.
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  #13  
Old 11-13-2011, 12:57 AM
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Have it your way kids. I was shown how to do this by hand with a caulking iron by some goofball from Holland. I respected him. His name was Emile.

Bye, Bye Kids

Mr no portfolio

But a lot jammed up my ass over the years. Thanks.
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  #14  
Old 11-13-2011, 01:17 AM
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I thought we were sharing? I would love to see how to do it with a caulking tool. There are many different methods I just showed how I would have done it.

Why would you use a caulking tool, what is a caulking tool, will there be distortion. These are the same questions you asked me, will you not elaborate?

I gave you no more then you gave me and I went down and did a demo, will you do the same?
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  #15  
Old 11-13-2011, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard K View Post
Have it your way kids. I was shown how to do this by hand with a caulking iron by some goofball from Holland. I respected him. His name was Emile.

Bye, Bye Kids

Mr no portfolio

But a lot jammed up my ass over the years. Thanks.
Are you kidding??

Too much jammed up your ass to tell us the why?

After you tell us that perhaps show the how.

Unbelievable!!
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http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=154
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  #16  
Old 11-13-2011, 06:08 AM
Michael Michael is offline
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Default male vs female

imo it is a heck of a lot easier to make a male mold than a female mold. I'll deal

with the other issues later.

Michael
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  #17  
Old 11-13-2011, 09:22 AM
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Here is a old picture of making a hammer form so that I could make a featured line. Anything can be done by hand it just takes some thought and some trial and error,


To be able to capture all of the shape I made wire-form bondo buck/hammer form.I used 3/16'' rod and made a form around the troubled area. Then on the top side I added sheet-metal to capture the bondo. Real quick and dirty I just needed the metal to capture the bondo. I forgot to mention that I am doing this on the inside of the fender.



After I had it made I waxed the inside of the fender, for a release agent. Then mixed up some bondo, I did not use as much hardener as usual because I needed some working time. I filled the cavity heavily then placed the wire form on it. I pressed it down to where it was about a 1/8'' from hitting the fender. Then after it dried I tapped it a few times with a rubber mallet and it released from the fender.



I trapped the metal on the v section that stands the highest on the mold and chased it wit a wooden caulking tool, until it was tight to the mold. The coloring on the bondo helped, I was able to remove the panel and see where the metal was hitting and where it was not and I chased it accordingly.



When I started this I had no idea if it would work or not but I knew I read it and seen the results, so I just went for it.

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  #18  
Old 11-13-2011, 05:24 PM
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Settle fellas...lol


Quote:
Originally Posted by jhnarial View Post
Now dang it Richard.... I thought we were having a conversation. I wasn't mad (well that mad). You made the comments, now own them!

I however went down to the shop to try and show how I would approach this.

Instead of using a metal pipe with a metal edger, I would use wood or uhmw. The reason I say that is if I am hitting metal to metal, it will be stretching and distorting the panel.

So I would use wood (with a hard wood chisel) it will also help with the marring of the metal.

Attachment 12897

Attachment 12898

When I want to add shape to a panel but want to keep the rest of the panel flat, I try to trap around the area being shaped. It's the same principle as a hammer form.

Attachment 12899

I don't have a picture of it but I used the wood chisel to chase the metal to the mold.

Then after I chased it up tight to the mold, I removed it and did some hammer dolly work, to tighten up the edges of the swage.

Attachment 12900

After that there is very minimal distortion.
Attachment 12901

Attachment 12902

Attachment 12903

This was done in 18g

Attachment 12904

Richard I wasn't around in the old days can you do a picture thread on how you would do this by hand?

I can only show how I would do it and it is probably wrong but I'm going to weld it in anyways.
That looks so much better!

I think I may have rushed mine a little (I can get impatient sometimes) but the marring is my main concern and what danger it posses in case of a collision.


BTW I know gal can be dangerous to weld so any parts will be cleaned away prior.
Once the door skins are done and on the doors I will be getting them media blasted.


Thanks for the replies..
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  #19  
Old 11-13-2011, 09:57 PM
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I have used these for years on galvanized, I am very happy with my results. I use them at home and at school as well.

Sorry for long link, 3M #8214 welding respirator is the product.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...BC31gv%29&rt=d

3M lists 5 different disposable "welding respirators" in their catalog, some, but not all list galvanized, be sure and check before buying if galvanized is what you are buying for.
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  #20  
Old 11-14-2011, 12:54 AM
Resto Rod Race Resto Rod Race is offline
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Default interesting

I find these sort of topics interesting, as clearly there are many ways to achieve the same result, One thing that stands out to me is that there some on here who do this stuff for a living and those just as a hobby and there is a big difference between opinions accordingly. Myself i was taught on the job, which means i didnt have the time to make all manner of jigs and dies for every job as no one would pay for that, hence my way will be different to a hobbiest. In reguards to making this door skin when i saw the sheet of galv i said to myself WTF!!, secondly failing to have access to a bead roller or recipco machine i would have done these two swage lines in a folder, and be fitting the skin to the frame before you had finished making your wooden bucks. now most of you would be saying to yourselves WTF, ??? And im not trying to be a smarty pants about it, just the way i was taught. OlD people arent completely usless, they have a life time of knowledge stuck in there heads, and they had to figure out ways to do things without fancy machinary, just what was available to them, it our responsibility to get that information before they all curl up and die taking it with them. They might be grumpy, smelly and arrogant at times but putting up with some of that is certainly worth the price.
Now here is a tip for making swages lines in a folder, if you look at a cross section you will see each swage actually has two folds, see if you can figure out the rest??
For curiosity sake im 33yrs old.
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