#12
|
||||
|
||||
As John's markup shows, there will be little or nothing left of the original quarter - flanges and the rear edge along with about 2" of the body line.
Funny thing is how many different ways there are to tackle a project like this. Come up with a game plan and go for it? Tim D. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Johnny on your red cut line, the rear line need to go straight down as the whole qtr is flared. It will make the panels flow together I did a similar job on a 70 mustang fast back about 10 years ago Danny.
|
#14
|
||||
|
||||
that rear horz line is the bottom of the quarter, the rest is bumper facia, I believe. That may have to be dealt with too, or possibly it might flex enough to go "wider"
id cut the weel well opening 1-2" from the edge, maybe even leave the inner wheel well on it for support. move it out, stand back and look at it. make a game plan from there. Daunting task either way. Marty
__________________
Results = (Effort X Determination2) + Time |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Wouldn't the John Kelly approach work for that. Stretch the original panel right on the car. Take out any inner well that prohibits that and start stretching. A lot of hand shaping for sure, but by the time the shaping is done, the project is done as well. Just another approach to consider.
Bob |
#16
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
The lower left section (just behind the door) will be done separate, welded to the larger piece, and then the whole thing will be welded to the existing QP. I also talked to a body shop guy who said that they're 20 gauge, at the most- and to do it in 20 gauge should match up pretty well. I also have a wire frame tack welded on the wheel cutout, which extends off the wheel well by 2 and 3/4 in. Believe it or not, I think there will be a minimum of stretching. If you lay a single sheet of steel at the top of the QP, it follows a natural curve down to the extended wheel well almost naturally. I could almost hand warp the panel for the required curvature. I'd also like to say thanks for all your input.. It does nothing but help to see it from all sides!
__________________
Rob Last edited by SumTingWong; 06-21-2009 at 11:18 PM. Reason: adding pics |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
The rear fascia is moded plastic, and my initial thought is to try to heat it with a heat gun, and stretch it a little. It's very flexible. If it doesn' work, they can be had all over the place, or I'll mold one in fiberglass.
__________________
Rob |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Something else to watch out foris the original q/p is probably high strenght steel. You may have a difficult time welding if the material type is not similar
Tom |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
Looks like a Cool Project Rob.
Moving the Inner Wheel well out of the way is going to be needed either way that you do it. Stretching the existing Panel would be awesome if possible, take a pattern and do the other side. Below is a picture of what's under the Skin. Widening the Inner will be much easier off the car as well. The rear Facia is very Flexible, Flaring the Fender out two Inches should be no problem, the Bumper Fascia flexes any which way you want off the Car. The Flange on the Quarter that the Bumper Fascia mounts to will probably be your biggest challenge. Will you be relocating the Gas Tank Neck? On my build I used a Rubber sleeve from a S10 to relocate it inward 3/4". Best of Luck and Please let us know how you do it.
__________________
Joe Andrews Hoosier Profiles Inc 213 N 1st St Decatur IN, 46733 Phone 260-301-9034 Fax 260-724-2236 |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
Tom (fordguyfordman)
High strength steel is only used for inner structure and structural support members. outer body panels are mild steel unless you are working on a Volvo with a Boron steel rear valance....we won't even go into what that involves I can't imagine you will ever to get the factory 1/4 to stretch anywhere close to what is needed for that shape the sheet metal is just too thin....Good luck with your project...I love the look of what you are trying to replicate! Dave |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|