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  #21  
Old 07-07-2015, 09:32 AM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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How do you cut the perfect 45 degree cut, if even a little off, then you’ve got an eyesore gap on the corner ? ~ John Buchtenkirch
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  #22  
Old 07-07-2015, 01:50 PM
metalman sweden metalman sweden is offline
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Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Always look forward to your great videos Per.
Sweet! I would love to have more time to share, but....there is only 24 hrs...
Thanks!
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  #23  
Old 07-07-2015, 01:52 PM
metalman sweden metalman sweden is offline
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Originally Posted by red baron View Post
What is the white piece that you use while working on the brake?
It is a strip of heavy cardboard, With this one I got the perfect round radius to match the wire.
Sometimes I stack a couple to get a bigger radius.
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  #24  
Old 07-07-2015, 01:54 PM
metalman sweden metalman sweden is offline
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Originally Posted by John Buchtenkirch View Post
How do you cut the perfect 45 degree cut, if even a little off, then you’ve got an eyesore gap on the corner ? ~ John Buchtenkirch
John, your right, the cut need to be REALLY clean and correct for the welding session!
I frestyle cut it at my vertical bandsaw with a very fine blade, usully I use my horisontal bandsaw but this time it didnt work good enough.
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  #25  
Old 07-07-2015, 02:59 PM
ed l ed l is offline
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i would think cutting the forty five degree angle should be done just like cutting wood crown molding what i used for my house was kreg crown pro bought at lowes for 30 bucks
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  #26  
Old 07-07-2015, 08:01 PM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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Originally Posted by ed l View Post
i would think cutting the forty five degree angle should be done just like cutting wood crown molding what i used for my house was kreg crown pro bought at lowes for 30 bucks
Ed, the problem is the thin sheet is floppy and bends while you’re trying to cut it, while stiffer wood or even thicker steel are relatively much easier materials to make an accurate cut with. If I had to make maybe 50 pieces or more I’d cut a pair perfectly to check the fit-up and then flatten one out to use as a pattern to scribe mark the end cuts and trim them by hand with snips. I look at that accurate cut as being one of the trickiest parts of the job.

Per, your brake seems to have an extended nose on the upper beam. Is that your modification or possibly the brake was made like that to manufacture drive cleats for duct work ? I’m also curious about how much set back adjustment you have on your upper beam ? ~ John Buchtenkirch
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  #27  
Old 07-08-2015, 12:41 AM
metalman sweden metalman sweden is offline
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Originally Posted by ed l View Post
i would think cutting the forty five degree angle should be done just like cutting wood crown molding what i used for my house was kreg crown pro bought at lowes for 30 bucks
This would work with slight heavier material and the correct blade, it is tricky to clamp it firm.
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  #28  
Old 07-08-2015, 12:47 AM
metalman sweden metalman sweden is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Buchtenkirch View Post
Ed, the problem is the thin sheet is floppy and bends while you’re trying to cut it, while stiffer wood or even thicker steel are relatively much easier materials to make an accurate cut with. If I had to make maybe 50 pieces or more I’d cut a pair perfectly to check the fit-up and then flatten one out to use as a pattern to scribe mark the end cuts and trim them by hand with snips. I look at that accurate cut as being one of the trickiest parts of the job.

Per, your brake seems to have an extended nose on the upper beam. Is that your modification or possibly the brake was made like that to manufacture drive cleats for duct work ? I’m also curious about how much set back adjustment you have on your upper beam ? ~ John Buchtenkirch
This breaks have tons of optional pieces to put in, the one I use is the standard one.
The european designed breaks are diffrent compared to what you use, the upper beam is not adjustable at all it just goes up and down at guides and moved by gears and thread spindles.
The adjustment for thickness and/or diffrent toolings is in the bend beam who slides up and down. It is very easy to adjust for your needs and the break in general is very stiff and have no flex.
Hope you got it?
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  #29  
Old 07-08-2015, 01:01 AM
metalman sweden metalman sweden is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Buchtenkirch View Post
Ed, the problem is the thin sheet is floppy and bends while you’re trying to cut it, while stiffer wood or even thicker steel are relatively much easier materials to make an accurate cut with. If I had to make maybe 50 pieces or more I’d cut a pair perfectly to check the fit-up and then flatten one out to use as a pattern to scribe mark the end cuts and trim them by hand with snips. I look at that accurate cut as being one of the trickiest parts of the job.
When I need to make many pieces like this I make a clamping mold, two pieces that match the inside and outside of the profile makes it easy to clamp in my horisontal bandsaw, then I got perfect cuts everytime.
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  #30  
Old 07-08-2015, 08:41 AM
keith keith is offline
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Nice, thanks for sharing.
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