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  #831  
Old 01-30-2018, 12:40 PM
Fordor Fordor is offline
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It's taken me two days to read this entire thread and catch up. There is so much knowledge to absorb here. My hat is off to you Jack, you truly are a wealth of knowledge and I appreciate you passing it on. I have learned so much from this thread. Keep up the good work. I look forward to your post every day. It inspires me to get going on my own projects.
Two thumbs up.
Bob L.
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  #832  
Old 01-30-2018, 05:52 PM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
I'll mount the suspension sub assemblies to the 49 frame. It's rust free and very strong with an X member like the convertibles used.
Most people donít understand why or how much torsional strength a proper X member can add to a carís frame. The diagonal members should be straight as they cross from rail to rail if you want to get the most torsional strength. The height of the X members web between its flanges is a factor as well. Most hot rod X members Iíve seen are made more for looks and supporting the floor, pedals & transmission rather than obtaining the highest torsional resistance possible. Iím in no way saying those hot rod X members are junk, they just have a different focus or goal. ~ John Buchtenkirch
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  #833  
Old 01-31-2018, 12:14 AM
Jeba Jeba is offline
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Been reading this thread since about a year back and like some others said, awesome job with everything. Have learned a ton here on allmetalshaping and this thread is filled with knowledge.

Got it bookmarked in my web browser.
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  #834  
Old 01-31-2018, 07:41 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Still moving pretty slow but I'm feeling better every day. I got the welds covered on both fenders and put some epoxy primer on them. I need to take the front sheet metal off so I can start transferring the front suspension from the CTS to the 49. Before I tear down the front end I need to make a temporary fixture so I know where the inner edge of the fenders are and the centerline of the car up high near where the strut towers will be. It needs to be light, simple and removable so I need to see if I can find some conduit or 3/4 angle around here.
I have a lot of measuring and fixture set up to do for this front end. It won't be a direct swap since the CTS is wider than the 49. I have a few options on narrowing the front but I want to know exactly how much I need to narrow before I decide how I'll do it. So, I will set up both cars with the front suspension loaded and get accurate flange to flange measurements and start checking how much wheel offset can be changed in order to get it set up right. That's about a week's work right there at the speed I'm moving.

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  #835  
Old 01-31-2018, 09:54 PM
bobadame bobadame is offline
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That roadster is looking really good Jack! Thanks for showing your work.
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  #836  
Old 02-01-2018, 08:23 AM
Mike Motage Mike Motage is offline
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Jack, are planning on using the rack from the CTS or one from another car to keep bump steer reasonable?

Your Caddy is looking fantastic!!
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Last edited by Mike Motage; 02-01-2018 at 08:27 AM.
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  #837  
Old 02-01-2018, 10:08 AM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Mike, there can't be ANY bump steer. I will be using an air ride system that will raise and lower ride height. Toe has to remain constant throughout the whole range of travel. I have to see exactly how much I need to narrow. That will determine which method I'll use. There are a few options, some are much more work than the others. As for the rack, If I don't need a lot and don't have to cut the cradle and move the control arm pivot points, then the CTS rack will be fine, I can just shorten the control arms and and tie rod ends, move the strut towers inboard and it's done If I need more and have to narrow the cradle, I know that the ATS rack is narrower than the CTS but haven't checked on how much narrower. This is why I said I have a LOT of measuring to do. I can also drop about 2" of width if I have my front wheels made with an inch narrower offset. Many options and many different ways to pick up an inch here and an inch there.
I'm going to cover all this in detail when I figure out which direction I'll be going in. I didn't want to muddy it up for the new guys because it is somewhat complex. I'm going to show what is involved and what needs to be considered when altering steering and suspension.
I learned a lot of this when I was setting up our race car suspension over 30 years ago. We bought an Alston tube chassis and with it came a chassis tuning guide. Probably the most comprehensive book on high performance chassis setup and tuning I've ever come across. Much to think about. I'm heading out to the garage right now.
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Last edited by Jack 1957; 02-01-2018 at 10:11 AM.
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  #838  
Old 02-01-2018, 10:49 AM
Mike Motage Mike Motage is offline
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I should have known that you'd be aware of that. So many aren't and haven't a clue as how to check toe curves. I remember your Camaro drag car, it was nice and it was right!
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  #839  
Old 02-01-2018, 11:47 AM
bimmer1980 bimmer1980 is offline
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Looking forward to seeing the suspension and frame design and fabrication! The body work details were helpful!

Thanks for taking the time to document your work and share it with the rest of us!

Hopefully you're on the upswing from the flu.

Brad
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  #840  
Old 02-01-2018, 12:48 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Motage View Post
... I remember your Camaro drag car, it was nice and it was right!

I wanted to PM this but couldn't figure out how to add pics in a PM. I found some old pics of when I was building the Camaro. A lot of it is when I was making the ground effects. This was somewhere in the early 80's. Pro Mod bodies were not out yet. Nobody had anything like it. I remember about a year after the car was finished, Larry Nance got his new Camaro and saw us in the pits. He came up and said "I thought I had the coolest Camaro out here....Til now".


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Last edited by Jack 1957; 02-01-2018 at 01:11 PM.
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