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  #11  
Old 04-16-2013, 09:56 AM
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Making a job specific profile gauge is not time consuming. I use a 1 inch wide strip of 18 or 19 gauge steel. Then just start with the Lancaster Shrinker and work along the strip, shrinking on one edge or the other until the curve matches. No need for a stretcher, if you overshrink, then shrink on opposite edge to straighten. A profile gauge for the fender flange should take about 10 to 20 minutes. It is durable and doesn't lose adjustment if you drop it.
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  #12  
Old 04-16-2013, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard K View Post
Making a job specific profile gauge is not time consuming. I use a 1 inch wide strip of 18 or 19 gauge steel. Then just start with the Lancaster Shrinker and work along the strip, shrinking on one edge or the other until the curve matches. No need for a stretcher, if you overshrink, then shrink on opposite edge to straighten. A profile gauge for the fender flange should take about 10 to 20 minutes. It is durable and doesn't lose adjustment if you drop it.
Thanks richard! Im going have to try that this evening!
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  #13  
Old 04-16-2013, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard K View Post
Making a job specific profile gauge is not time consuming. I use a 1 inch wide strip of 18 or 19 gauge steel. Then just start with the Lancaster Shrinker and work along the strip, shrinking on one edge or the other until the curve matches. No need for a stretcher, if you overshrink, then shrink on opposite edge to straighten. A profile gauge for the fender flange should take about 10 to 20 minutes. It is durable and doesn't lose adjustment if you drop it.
I found these very useful. Once you have the shapes done you can mark your panel where they go and check as you work the panel. You can see how I over worked the panel. I should have made them from the beginning rather than after I screwed up the piece.









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  #14  
Old 04-18-2013, 11:01 PM
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thanks guys. this is such a helpfull method. really saves some time.

had a great a-ha moment today....

see how the front fenders have the reverse where they meet the truck? Im thinking to keep as much of the fender original while making it wider and keeping the same "foot print" on the bedside I am going to build a once piece flange and "band" to widen the fender that has this relief. my plan of attack at this moment is to make a long L channel with slightly over 90* bend, the short part of the L can be the flange. tuck shrink and use the lancasters to bring this into the shape to fit. then the long part of the L can be stretched to form the upward swing of the relief and tie into where I cut off the factory flange. at the rear I will transition out the relief to help the eyes flow over the fender much like the front ones. still going to have to build a buck i figure just to make sure i get both of the fenders the exact same.
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:11 AM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is online now
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I have widened a few sets of fenders by making wood stations I bolted on at every fender mounting bolt hole, sort of like a wood buck without the connecting spine. I bolted the inner half of the fender to the car with the stations attached under it, then trimmed the stations to where I thought they looked correct with the outer half of the fender clamped on & spaced out the appropriate amount. It did take some trial & error time to get the stations right but the good thing is once they were correct they could be flipped over to the opposite side of the car. As I remember it did take some shrinking & stretching of the edges of the fender halves to make the look of the fender flow correctly. To me there were 2 big advantages to doing it this way, with the 2 halves attached to the stations on the car I had a reasonably good idea of how the finished fender was going to look and being able to bolt it to the car gave me something solid to hold it when I was doing the metal work. Personally I wouldn’t do the job without a car to hang the fenders on while doing it, I think you could get into big trouble otherwise. Sorry no build photos, these were the pre-computer & digital camera days . ~ John Buchtenkirch

P.S. I would think with peaked fenders you’d likely have to add equal amounts to both sides of the peak for it to look correct but maybe not.
!!!!!!!MEE.jpg
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:35 PM
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Brent

Well you did jump into the deep end of the pool !!!!!!!

To add a filler strip the full length of the fender requires 2 weld zones the full length also, and probably a couple joints in the filler too. That can be a real challenge to keep all the weld shrinkage under control. It will work and has been done by many in the past. I'm sure you could do it that way too but since you use mig welding that is even more difficult.

Another option that you could consider would be to make a new inner half of the fender, and then only one long weld zone, and maybe two short seams so you could make managable size parts. You should probably also make a buck to keep everything where it is supposedto be.

The new panel would have the mount flange, then a wider section to the crease, and the crease, and extra metal beyond the crease. So the weld would be to the outside of the crease.

Both ways are a lot of work.

I hope you didn't give the customer a quote, or you may be working for free on part of the job.
Thanks again so much for this bit of advice steve! and also to everyone else who chimed in!

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Buchtenkirch View Post
I have widened a few sets of fenders by making wood stations I bolted on at every fender mounting bolt hole, sort of like a wood buck without the connecting spine. I bolted the inner half of the fender to the car with the stations attached under it, then trimmed the stations to where I thought they looked correct with the outer half of the fender clamped on & spaced out the appropriate amount. It did take some trial & error time to get the stations right but the good thing is once they were correct they could be flipped over to the opposite side of the car. As I remember it did take some shrinking & stretching of the edges of the fender halves to make the look of the fender flow correctly. To me there were 2 big advantages to doing it this way, with the 2 halves attached to the stations on the car I had a reasonably good idea of how the finished fender was going to look and being able to bolt it to the car gave me something solid to hold it when I was doing the metal work. Personally I wouldn’t do the job without a car to hang the fenders on while doing it, I think you could get into big trouble otherwise. Sorry no build photos, these were the pre-computer & digital camera days . ~ John Buchtenkirch

P.S. I would think with peaked fenders you’d likely have to add equal amounts to both sides of the peak for it to look correct but maybe not.
Attachment 21393
I wish i had the truck here. I get to test fit the first one tomorrow morning.


made a test part to figure out how to work the metal.


part i learned here... overhang enough to trim


screwed the template to the table.


broke each fender down into 2 48" parts. gives me enough to trim and still fits in the brake. I bent past 90*


shrank and planished to get each piece of metal to fit on the flange. (2 parts)


put the stretcher on the outside edge to help speed up my wheeling. (my wheel is very weak. i use my monkey on a stick to help it stiffen up.


after a few minuets its looked like this! I am really happy how fast this all went. the metal is smooth with no tool marks after i planished the inside lip even the marks from the shrinker almost went away. Each fender took about 2 hours.


test fit on the truck tomorrow on the way to the shop.

I always figured reverse curves is what separated the boys from men around here. thankfully with all your help and that super informative thread of pugsy's I went from drowning to doggy paddling in a few days with these parts. I figure this was an easy shape but I learned lots from it!

now on to the repairs......
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  #17  
Old 04-23-2013, 04:41 AM
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Looking good Brent.

Thanks for posting and keep the updates coming.
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  #18  
Old 04-23-2013, 09:45 PM
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it happened at a terrible time... not even minuets after i got off the phone with Joe this happened....


see how they did not put the relief in the wedge like the nicer lancasters... stupid harbor freight. but I was so lucky. just after a trip to HF to see that they are out of stock of any other lancasters a customer pulled up and after talking he said he was a machinest so of course I started asking him about this part and he said he would make me one out of stainless steel block. and even lent me his set of lancasters until he makes the part! never underestimate the comunity that surrounds people that work with metal.


cast really???


clamped up for symmetry. had to tweak some here and there.


also made a patch for the "gas door"


weld grind planish..


leaving the lower part alone since its been ground too thin to weld... going to get to re-create
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  #19  
Old 04-24-2013, 08:33 PM
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whooo! I had fun today. made these panelsl..... and screwed it up in the last hour with my "bead rolling" and tipping. going to cut off the offending area on the middle piece and make a new one. still stinks though it could have been so clean.


lighting makes it look wrong but its from 2 lights. the joint is very smooth.


i have a new favorite tuck shrinking hammer. i just tried it and it really helped me learn lots about tuck shrinking.


I made this in a few minuets with the stump, bag, and wheel. finaly grasping tuck shrinking has opened new doors for me.... now if only i had tried that this morning with the back panel....


I really made this in less then 30 min. loving it more and more thanks everyone for your help. Tomorrow im going to finish up this front panel and make its twin. the back panel on the other fender only needs a new lip. should have lots more fun on the way!!
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  #20  
Old 04-25-2013, 01:30 AM
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well done Brent seem u meet that challenge with ease the work will be stacking up at your door soon i think
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