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  #1371  
Old 06-02-2020, 09:18 PM
ScooterCO ScooterCO is offline
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Top center if my vote counts.
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  #1372  
Old 06-03-2020, 04:30 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Thanks for all the contributions.
I have made a bracket to mount it on drivers side.
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  #1373  
Old 06-03-2020, 04:31 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaroslav View Post
Metrix is really running. It is sad. Stupidity wins.

Back to shaping. You have it beautiful. Will you disassemble it before the varnish?
I have covered everything in Ankor Wax and will run it like that until tear down for paint.
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  #1374  
Old 06-03-2020, 05:31 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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I see what kind of work awaits you. Disassembly, color, assembly .... ufff.
That's why the military is painting everything green. Engine, seats, plastics, cables. The windows are washed from the paint at the end and only the part that slides out the door. What is green is new, etc.

Marcus, I would choose green. And everything. Complete green.


Just kidding. Beautiful work.
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  #1375  
Old 06-06-2020, 06:55 PM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Well you can see the Ankor wax is doing a great job! As winter has started here, the cold nights with no wind causes condensation to drip off where the clear roofing is.


Going to tackle fixing the rust pitting. The rust has already been treated but has turned black from the lanolin oil mixed with dust over the years. I can't just grind this down as the pitting is deeper than it looks and has it on the top side near the same spot too!


Being a Wagon bumper, this has rusted where the corner piece bolts on over the top of this.


I will fix every gouge and stone chip on the whole bar.


I'm using my TIG for all this as I want to keep it soft so it doesn't stay proud from being hard when I get down to fine sanding and polishing. Just using some 1.2mm mig wire as the TIG filler, or even a coat hanger for the bigger deeper pits!


After filling every rust pit I carefully ground and sanded the welds smooth keeping the original bumper thickness. Looks fine but can see the profile has flattened from the welding heat. The old DD hammer on the bench will be used to stretch the area back out again.


Used a profile gauge to make sure the shape was back again and then carefully filed just enough to show the low spots that you can see. These were then hammered up until all gone rather than just keep filing.


Where I had filled the rust pitting on the flanges, I used the long board sander to show any low spots. Can see one of the dull spots above the marker. I mark the spot so when I flip it over I know exactly where to hit the dent up.


Using a 7" disc sander and going through the grades I have removed most of the chrome but there is still a lot of nickel left. Even though it was OEM, there was no copper under that.


Can see the profile is much rounder in the welded area now, like the rest of the bar, than before the stretching was done. This is far enough now to show me I have hammered out all the dents and filled the chips and scratch damage gathered in the last 70 years! The big dents I hammered out already a number of years ago.


I drilled out the original mounting holes to take the front parking sensors. I removed the holders from the trashed donor bumper 10 years ago. This one was is damaged though so wouldn't mind some more if anyone has a 2005-2010 Grand Cherokee with a damaged bumper. I can not find anywhere that sell the holders separately for the front of the Jeep. To the left of the sensor is where I repaired the rust damage and has come up fairly well.


The rear sensors are chrome so will use those on the front bumper so it blends in better. Just need to get a couple more as there are only 4 sensors on the back and 6 on the front.


Has always annoyed me that the 'I' wasn't dotted!


So I put some conveyor rubber over the top of a matching crown stake and hammered the punch into the surface. I then hammered around the dot using the drilled rod from the back so only the dot was sunk in. Hammering the punch directly over the drilled rod from the start would have been better, but keeping it balanced in the right spot was too hard to do on my own.


Whipped up a licence plate holder out of some 3mm-1/8" plate and bent the tab in my press.


The thickness allowed me to drill and tap the holes for the button head retaining screws which were sanded flush at the back. The rear plate I had ordered full size.


I decided on fitting it in the factory drivers side position. Held in place with some Holden HQ bumper bar bolts.


I'm wondering if to buy some stainless plate and remake it. Worried stones coming off the tyres will chip it badly.


Bumper now finished and have just dropped it off at the chromers. They said all my repairs and preparation means no extra cost to get the chroming redone.
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  #1376  
Old 06-07-2020, 02:20 AM
Fargoman Fargoman is offline
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If you chrome plate the number plate bracket that would pretty well solve stone chipping.
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  #1377  
Old 06-07-2020, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fargoman View Post
If you chrome plate the number plate bracket that would pretty well solve stone chipping.
Be an expensive way though!
I just have to find some stainless to use I think.
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  #1378  
Old 06-07-2020, 05:40 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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Nice work Marcus.

I think that the stainless holder is a better idea,

Cheers Charlie
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  #1379  
Old 06-08-2020, 08:21 AM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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You never disappoint, Marcus. Love seeing the small, patient work.
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  #1380  
Old 06-09-2020, 05:34 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Nice hearing from you all.
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Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
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