All MetalShaping

Go Back   All MetalShaping > Metal Shaping Projects > Automotive Projects
  Today's Posts Posts for Last 7 Days Posts for Last 14 Days  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1471  
Old 04-23-2020, 10:46 PM
steve.murphy steve.murphy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 650
Default

This technology is fascinating but very frustrating to try to learn what does what. Shame nobody has written an idiots guide for this, I would be first inline.
__________________
Steve

ærugo nunquam dormit
Reply With Quote
  #1472  
Old 04-24-2020, 01:02 PM
Rick Mullin Rick Mullin is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Malvern,PA
Posts: 157
Default

I might suggest Stealth Composites in Norristown PA. John Dice makes composite parts for everything from Ferrari race cars to the lunar rover. He has the ability to scan parts and CNC the molds. It is a small company consisting of he and his wife (both engineers) so you get personal attention. Having a small shop myself, I am a strong believer in supporting others of similar size. It is often that it is where you find the highest quality and best personal service.
__________________
Rick
Reply With Quote
  #1473  
Old 04-24-2020, 09:25 PM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
MetalShaper of the Month January 2020, March 2022
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Spartanburg, SC
Posts: 2,845
Default

Jack- if you don't go with Rick's suggestion, you may want to check with a nearby art bronze foundry. Scanning and milling for enlargement is pretty standard stuff nowadays. Many realistic figurative works go through multiple stages of scan & enlargement to be properly corrected. Not many artists are trained or skilled enough to accurately enlarge work by hand anymore.

When needed, I use Carolina Bronze in Seagrove, NC. They regularly scan very intricate 3D scale models in a variety of materials, which are then enlarged via CNC for correction and further development. I've only had one such project needing scanning & enlargement, but one of my sculptor friends (brilliant talent and very successful sculptor) regularly employs multiple rounds of scan/milling/correction between original 1' tall clay maquette to finished 8' or larger finished model.
__________________
AC Button II
http://CarolinaSculptureStudio.com
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzSYaYdis55gE-vqifzjA6A Carolina Sculpture Studio Channel
Reply With Quote
  #1474  
Old 05-05-2020, 03:10 PM
bradleyc1982 bradleyc1982 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Essex, England
Posts: 11
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
I need a reinforcement on the lower edge that's strong enough to hold the skirt. I'm using 1 x 1 x 1/8 steel angle. It's probably a little overkill, but that's better than being too weak. The bend in front is too tight to heat and beat, so I cut some slots, bent it cold then welded it up

Attachment 40273

Attachment 40274


The rest of the curve is minimal but the material is too thick to shrink cold so I used the torch then the shrinker as needed and got the shape right then trimmed it to length. I considered bending it cold by hand but you really don't have enough control over where and how much it will move. Shrinking in specific areas gradually is much more accurate. It fits the slot in the buck real well so I fastened it to the fender temporarily.

Attachment 40275

Attachment 40276

Attachment 40277

Next, I set everything back up on the buck with the peak of the outboard half overlapping the inboard half. I will be doing the final cut so I made absolutely sure that everything was in alignment, then taped the cut line and trimmed the inboard panel.

Attachment 40278

Attachment 40279


I took everything down off the buck, trimmed and tacked the two halves together and started fitting the tail light pocket. That's as far as I got today. Pretty good day's work.

Attachment 40279

Attachment 40280
I see that you have cut the angle but how did you bend it? By hand or did you use some sort of folder?
Reply With Quote
  #1475  
Old 05-05-2020, 09:32 PM
Jack 1957's Avatar
Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Dec . 2016, Sept 2019 Metal Shaper Of The Year 2021
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Strongsville,OH
Posts: 1,131
Default

Bradley, If you're referring to the bend along the top edge of the panel, I used a tipping die on the bead roller.
__________________
Jack

Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can.
Reply With Quote
  #1476  
Old 05-07-2020, 03:44 PM
bradleyc1982 bradleyc1982 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Essex, England
Posts: 11
Default

Hi jack no sorry I mean the 1”x1” angle?? You cut notches in it but how did you form the curve? Was it in the stump??
Reply With Quote
  #1477  
Old 05-08-2020, 12:17 PM
Jack 1957's Avatar
Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Dec . 2016, Sept 2019 Metal Shaper Of The Year 2021
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Strongsville,OH
Posts: 1,131
Default

I just bent it by hand with vice grips. Once the reliefs are cut, it bends easily.
__________________
Jack

Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can.
Reply With Quote
  #1478  
Old 05-10-2020, 02:11 PM
bradleyc1982 bradleyc1982 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Essex, England
Posts: 11
Thumbs up

Looks quality
Reply With Quote
  #1479  
Old 06-03-2020, 08:41 PM
Jack 1957's Avatar
Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Dec . 2016, Sept 2019 Metal Shaper Of The Year 2021
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Strongsville,OH
Posts: 1,131
Default

I was talking with a friend recently that has a strong background in restorations. He was checking out the front end of the Cadillac. He liked the work but brought up a potential problem; The sheet metal on the front end originally was all hanging on the core support (as is typical) BUT! The core support was only mounted to the frame in one spot. The center of the core support was bolted to the front cross member in the center only. They did this because of how long the front end was on these cars. The distance from the front body mounts to the contact patches on the front tires is about 30 inches.

The problem is that on uneven surfaces such as turning into a driveway where all the weight is on the front right and rear left tires, the frame is going to flex. If the front end sheet metal is fastened tight to the frame, the sheet metal will flex, bend or even tear at bolt holes.

After talking for a while, we decided that the front end work that I did was more than adequate to form a rigid "box". Also, the "X frame" crossmember ties in in this area so that's some added support. When I was doing the framework, I boxed the frame all the way back to the rear suspension so the only potential flex point is where the frame kicks upward in front to mount the cradle.

I decided to add a ladder from behind the front body mounts, forward to the towers. (Outlined in red)


Name:  1761.jpg
Views: 1139
Size:  51.8 KB


Name:  1762.jpg
Views: 1034
Size:  51.2 KB


Moving on to some other mundane tasks, I needed to add drip rails to the inner edges of the fenders. Originally there were no drip rails. The inner and outer fenders were welded together and the water and slop was just left to run where ever. One down, one to go.


Name:  1763.jpg
Views: 997
Size:  49.5 KB
__________________
Jack

Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can.

Last edited by Jack 1957; 06-03-2020 at 08:43 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #1480  
Old 06-05-2020, 11:12 AM
ScooterCO ScooterCO is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 50
Default

Good catch on the potential frame flex. Best to fix now than later!

Love your work. Thanks again for keeping us updated!

Scott
__________________
Scott
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:46 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.