#31
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I agree. I'd carefully wash out the panel around the wheel arch opening and it'll come flat. Maybe a tiny amount at the other end of the rule too. I'm looking at the pic of the humped panel with the rule across it and big No.1 in the foreground. Will
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Here to learn. William Pointer |
#32
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For any stretching on the wheel arch and door gap (before the return) I would use the anvil shown on the wheel pic, then if you need more shape use the next size up, but with a bit less pressure Peter PS LOL.... Yea I have seen those wheels before, as a matter of fact I have 15 of them on my shop floor. Also... is that beside the wheel a E type jag?
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P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM |
#33
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Peter
yes that is an E-type Jaguar a 1969. looked like this a few years ago. I decided to restore it It got me started on this metal shaping journey. I purchased a very expensive repair panel for it. The front valance that makes up the front under part of the bonnet. Had it shipped in from England. By the time I got around to fitting it there was no way it would fit on the car. I couldn't send it back because it was a special order and to much time had lapsed. I ended up cutting it up and using it to repair the original valance. I vowed then to never purchase another panel. I would learn to make them. I came across the Austin Healey about a year and a half ago. I thought hell I can restore the Healey in about a year So I set the Jag on the back burner. Then this past July I purchased the 2000 Porsche Boxster S that is under the white cover behind the E-wheel. Got it for a very good price. very low miles. Bought it just as a toy something to drive and rip through the curves with very fun car and I like sports cars P.S. thanks for all your help
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Dave Bradbury |
#34
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Last Year one of my client come to me with a E type Jag and a stack of parts that he brought from England, it included 2 lower valance panel,(front and rear) 2 quarters, 2 door skins, 2 front guards, and a rear panel panel and a few other bits and pieces . I had the same problem nothing fitted, it was either too long or too short or the wrong shape So I suggested that he could sells the imported panels (which he did) and I made all new ones Peter
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P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM |
#35
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I tend to jump around a lot trying to learn this metal shaping thing.
SO I will set what ever I am working on aside for a while (like the fender). Then try something like bodywork. After watching Peter do the door jamb on the Monaro Quarter and demonstrating moving a line in another DVD. I thought I would try my hand at adjusting some shut gaps using what Peter shows. I used a small blocking hammer to create some metal along the line I wanted to adjust. That line happened to be the bottom of the trunk opening or Boot opening if your using the proper British term The area where the license plate mounts on the aluminum shroud was pushed in thus pulling the bottom of the trunk lid opening down. I used a slapper and dolly to remove the dent. Then I used the blocking hammer, a hammer and dolly to adjust the shut gaps the best I could. I had never done anything with Aluminum before so it was a little scary I didn't take any before pictures. I thought it turned out ok for a first try. I see in the pictures that it looks like there is a dent just below the handle (in the shroud) but it is lighting. The lower left corner is a little tight maybe I can adjust that out in the fine tuning stage
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Dave Bradbury Last edited by blue62; 01-01-2019 at 08:36 PM. |
#36
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Dave
Anything can be done with a bit of patience and practice you have done well! Peter
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P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 01-02-2019 at 06:58 AM. |
#37
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Thanks Peter means a lot coming from you.
I pull your DVD'S out every couple of months and watch them again. Then try to apply what you teach to what I am working on. I can manipulate the hammer and dolly pretty well now. learned it all from The DVD'S Never touched a body hammer or dolly until about 18 months ago. knowing what the metal is going to do when I hit it or wheel it or do what ever to it is the hard part.
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Dave Bradbury |
#38
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knowing what the metal is going to do when I hit it or wheel it or do what ever to it is the hard part.[/QUOTE] Yes that is so true but with enough practice and patience it will get easier each time Peter
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P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM |
#39
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Well back at the fender I tried my hand at taking the lump out of the panel I made of area 2. I followed what Peter and others said to do. It is better but not there yet. I decided to work on that panel maybe five to ten minutes a day else I will spend hours trying to get the lump out and destroy it
Some months ago I tried to do ares 3&4 as one piecebut It was to big to handle and control the way I wanted and where the bottom line folds over there is a lot of metal to shrink and deal with. So I decided to try it in two pieces. For a first try at a piece that size I got close though. So I have been working on area 4. In the first picture I couldn't figure out how to bring all that metal over and keep the shape. so I left just enough material for a flange then welded a piece on. There is a body line in this piece that I didn't get straight or the right shape when I put it through my bead roller. so it is practice piece 1 I got out Peters DVD on doing the door jamb on the Monaro Quarter. studied how he brought all that metal over. Figured same principle different application I will give it a go. I tried bring the metal over and tuck shrinking I also used my Lancaster shrinker on it because I had never tried tuck shrinking until now I got the metal over but I have a twist in the panel and I lost control of the shape. So practice piece #2 I decided I needed to learn this tuck shrinking business so I rounded the heal on a hammer. I would round the heal some then try a tuck shrink then round the heal more. This is where it is now. I think it really shrinks the metal well once I started to get the hang of it. Front side of a shrink partly done. back side
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Dave Bradbury |
#40
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After rereading what Peter T. said to do to get the hump out of Panel #2, I spent about 30-45 minutes in 5-10 minute sessions. working on removing the hump.
Here is the before picture. After working the hump down. I am wondering if when I turn the door jamb flange over and wire the wheel arch,will that flatten and true the rest of that area up or will it just lock in the lows and highs, and create a problem.
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Dave Bradbury |
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