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  #11  
Old 03-24-2019, 06:02 AM
rewdco rewdco is offline
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Wow! Another masterpiece from Paul!
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  #12  
Old 03-24-2019, 07:29 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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You can show the lower wheel - the combination of wheels.
I am dealing with the still of my learning.
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  #13  
Old 03-24-2019, 09:50 AM
Paul-S Paul-S is offline
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Hello Jan thank you I'm glad you like it.

Hello Jaroslav
Yes we're all here to learn and share.
I have made the profile around the perimeter in two steps(change of wheels)
Each step in several rounds.
It can be done with one pair of wheels but I didn't have the right ones and no turning machine around.
So I improvised it by doing it in two steps.
See the pictures below.


Step one setup done in 4 or 5 rounds


Setup from step one round one or two!


Setup wheels step two


As you can see is the edge brought down by the upper wheel!
The lower wheel acts as a support now.

If I had to make more of these shells I would let someone make the right wheels.
It would save much time and more important more accurate.
But I'm happy with this so far
Hope this is helpful Jaroslav.

Greetings Paul
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  #14  
Old 03-24-2019, 05:24 PM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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Thank you Paul. It's super. The most important thing for this work is imagination. Knowing what step you will take and what you will do. Whether the product will lead you or throw it away. Perhaps it is impossible to hurry to this work.
I've been through productive production for years. For this job, I had to drop my watch. That can't be measured. When you hurry, you throw it away.
Thanks for sharing.
I have everything to do here. I find that art is more than machines.
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  #15  
Old 03-25-2019, 04:44 AM
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Thanks for showing how you did the radiused step as will come in handy one day.
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  #16  
Old 03-25-2019, 06:38 AM
metal manny metal manny is offline
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Very impressive work, Paul. I know that brass is tricky to join as the zinc leaches out if overheated?
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Old 03-25-2019, 06:50 AM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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Great work- thank you for sharing, Paul.
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  #18  
Old 03-25-2019, 03:58 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Default brass repair for plating

Hi Paul,
Yes, after copper I can sand with 320, 400, 600 or 800.
With 600 or finer, I can work the nickel coat, before chrome.
I like to have zero buffer marks.
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1937 (Mussolini-era) Carello lamps
Left one is fresh out of copper, right one is sanded with 320, early in the process of saving smashed/repaired/fixed and very thin brass work.
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I hand sanded these attach clips so as not to lose the "Carello - Torino" script.
Script is completely covered by the attaching screw and washer when on the car and assembled. (Invisible company marking, as directed by fascist law at that time. )
All plating on this car was done the same way as I describe here, so zero buffer marks - and I can rivet my prepared assemblies together perfectly before the last coats - as you can see the clean rivet edges here.
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This is the finished brass shell from the car, a 2900B "Corto" Alfa.
It had been smacked and fixed too many times ... but careful patience can save the original part ...
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  #19  
Old 03-25-2019, 04:50 PM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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In the past, we repaired the Alfa 6c 2500. In the evening, the movie "Godfather with Marlon Brando" went on TV. I turned on the TV just when the car car flew into the air on mafia funeral.... It was a good contrast in time .....
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  #20  
Old 03-26-2019, 03:13 PM
Paul-S Paul-S is offline
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Hi Kent
Very nice these lamps with so many details!
Yes these small things make it very special.
What thickness in mm are these made?
Thank you for this information!
If an old part like this has a crack or a tear Kent how do you repair that and what kind of joining method do you use?
Many people say to me I should use silver soldering instead.
What are your thoughts in this?

Greetings Paul
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