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  #1  
Old 04-11-2010, 10:29 AM
Steve Hamilton's Avatar
Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Default 1959 chev extended cab pickup

This project will last for a while as it is my own and i nee to work on customer work too.
I wanted a project to showcase my metalshaping and be a neat shop truck. The old cabs were small so alittle more leg room seemed good.
the 58 chassis was straight axle & leaf, manual steering. Aster some measuring an early 80's half ton long box chassis was 17 inches longer wheel base than the 58. I already had the newer chassis, so I traded the original chassis and bench seat for a pair of extra doors and misc needed parts. a little photoshop work and I think this is the goal.

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Since I wasn't ready to start the project yet Santa used it for a few weeks.

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Feb I decided it was time to get the project rolling

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No turning back now..... some rust at the bottom

Stay tuned for more

Steve
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  #2  
Old 04-11-2010, 11:26 AM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Default Step 1

Where to start, Well after many hours of stuying photos & measuring I decided that the body needs to be stretched 17 inches. I will stretch the doors 4 inches and the rest by new metal between the door & rear cab wall.

I set all the parts on the frame and leveled them up so that the crease down the body, fender & box were in alignment. then built temp. mounts for the front of the cab and welded them to the frame. made shim blocks for the rear of the cab & box. Modified the frame a little at each end so the box & core support fit. That will be my base line all leveled & square. I can shim up as needed for final assembly.

The firewall is my start point for the cab and the doors must align to the firewall. The lower hinge pins were broke & the holes worn oversize. Rust had destroyed the hinge mounts & lower cowl.

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I repaired the hinges by using parts of some 57 car door hinges, pins, bushings, and a section with a good pin hole. Then time to make some new hinge mounts in the A pillar,and the front of the step area.

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Just fab work but part of the project 16 ga. as original

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The bottom area of the cowl is a very complex shape and required many small parts shaped and welded together. After cutting and drilling the outside part off in a manner that kept them useful for patterns, it was time to make the inside panel

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This is like a puzzle..... which part to to fit in first..... where to make the weld seams, etc. used the old sections for dimensions & shape. Some of this area needs to be very accurate so the door hinges mount correctly, and so there is clearance for the hinge to swing in the pocket.

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more next post
Steve

Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 04-11-2010 at 12:14 PM.
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  #3  
Old 04-11-2010, 12:40 PM
Steve Hamilton's Avatar
Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Default Step 2 hinge pocket area

mostly fab work, cut out, break a flange, tip a crease, bend a radius, etc.

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More cancer repair, this is the outer cowl area that directs the air from below the windshield to the floor vents & the heater. leaves, and mouse nest inside.

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  #4  
Old 04-11-2010, 01:34 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Default more step 2 lower cowl repairs

The lower hinge mount bolt / nut & cage was repaired.

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part of the air duct where the flap door closes off the floor vent was full of holes. there is a hole & a pocket for the hinge pin in the flap door to fit in so here is how I made that. Cut a blank bent a flange, used the vise and sockets for the depression, the vise & hammer/punch for offset, then stretched flange.

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lots of time for parts that will never be seen after the outer part is welded on, but I will know that it is done correctly. should be good for another 50 years
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  #5  
Old 04-11-2010, 07:00 PM
Butch Duke Butch Duke is offline
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Default

HI Steve
It is amazing how much time we all spend on areas that are not seen by most people. They just do not know how much time it takes!!! As always you do nice work!!!
Butch Duke

Last edited by Butch Duke; 04-11-2010 at 09:51 PM.
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  #6  
Old 04-11-2010, 07:17 PM
Dutch Comstock Dutch Comstock is offline
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Default

Steve, I have done a few 55 to 59 chevy truck so I know every move you are making. I am also working o an extended truck but you allready know it is a Ford. It is a 54 F-100 with the cab extended 6 inces behind the doors. I also have to cut a few inches out of the roof( 4 inches in the front nd 3 in the rear. Mustang 11 front suspension 2 inch dropped spindles. Moved front suspension 5 inches forward so that the front wheel opening would e in the center of the fender. I had to reverse te way the hood opened using a MW type mouting. I also had to take 1 1/2 inch of height out of the nose of the hood. The rear fenders were widened 4 iinches and the lrge wheel opening was sized to match the tire. We have a 94 Mark VIII Lincoln 32 valve modular motor and OD drive transmisson eing reuilt now. The ody work is done on ll of the panels and the ca and hood are painted and a lot of the inside work is done on the cab.
You will have to get an LS series engine ,trans comination for your truck.
The rear side window in the cab extension looks real good in your truck. Dutch Comstock
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  #7  
Old 04-13-2010, 08:20 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Default step 3 making longer running boards

Since the door openings are going to be lengthened 4", The upper door jamb, running board step, and rocker panel also need to be made longer than stock. Repro. parts are available, but only in a standard length.
Time to make dies for the pullmax. Cut out a section of the old panel and blasted it to use as a pattern. Used a friends mill to cut the grooves.

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ran a test panel used the fence to keep it straight, then moved the fence back one rib at a time. I think I ran each rib 2 or 3 passes.

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looks a whole lot like the originals, but a little less rust

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Steve
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  #8  
Old 04-13-2010, 08:52 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Default Step 4 new rockers

More dies for the pullmax, but only used them to create the concave and the finished contour. The panel is straight so it was quick to bend them up in the brake. No pic of the bending, made the dies out of Alum. easy to cut and strong enough since I wasn't forming the sharp creases. Steel dies are required to get the sharpe detail. The Rockers & the running boards are made of 18 ga. (frigo drops)

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The front end of the Rocker has a 1/4 flange to give it a finished look, I bent that over with a vise grip just a little at a time. This is the rocker & step box, the original was one piece I decided to lap the two at the vertical step, spot welded and will be seam sealed both sides.

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another step closer to the end

Steve

Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 04-13-2010 at 08:59 PM.
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  #9  
Old 04-13-2010, 09:04 PM
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Joe Hartson Joe Hartson is offline
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Steve, as usual you are doing an excellent job. Thanks for showing us all of the panel you made and how you made them.

Many years ago a friend of mine had a 58 Chevy long wheel base that I made a lot of parts for. It wasn't as rusty as yours so it was easier.
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  #10  
Old 04-13-2010, 09:25 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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I'm watching this thread with great interest Steve. I have this project that is somewhere in the queue. A few years ago I bought the front fenders, grill, and hood off a 56 Chevy COE. Yesterday, my brother-in-law, gave me two 58 Chevy PU cabs. The plan is to make an extended cab COE and put it on my crew cab dually chassis to make a car hauler.

So I'll be having to do everything you're doing plus building a new A pillar and modifying the doors for the COE wheel well openings.
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