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Old 01-13-2019, 02:16 PM
Reno Reno is offline
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Default Re: 1/4 scale Steel "41 Willys

I found some nice shots on the Willys in Metalman Sweden's post. Can anyone clarify the difference in the edge treatment that Per compares to Italian cars? I'm not ready for the trunk lid yet, but with the frustration I'm having around the door jambs sometimes it helps to break away and the deck lid is something that could be done independent of the cab dimensions.

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Originally Posted by metalman sweden View Post
Hi there!
I done some more work on the lid for the Willys
The innerstructure is done and fits pretty good to get some to work against I did a simple buck right on the car....



here can you see how nice my "perfect rulers" show you the flow in shapes, perfect to judge the shape like in this case



here can you see the "buck stations" in place...

Now I will try to figure out why the guys who work with this cars make the skin for the lid in 3 or 4 pieces..? cant see the point with that more than the size to wheel.. any ideas here?? please let me know if I have over looked some trouble here

This lid have a little diffrent joint between the in /out side its not fold over like most skins...so the fit/gap of the inside must be pretty good, not much can be moved later like a ordinary edge who can be moved pretty easy..

This kind of joints is common on many Italian cars so I have played with it for pretty long time and sometimes...itīs hard to end up with a nice gap all around..

I will start with the skin tomorrow so come on now and give me your ideas how it should be made, one piece or splitted in several pieces???

// Per
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Old 01-13-2019, 08:55 PM
Fasteddie Fasteddie is offline
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I think the reason for several pieces is they are to big to wheel without help and simpler for a beginner. Some pieces have hard shapes to make and are simpler to make in small pieces. If scrap is made, it is not the whole piece.
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Old 01-13-2019, 10:09 PM
Reno Reno is offline
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Thanks Eddie, I think you are correct as to the size for Per to do by himself, but I got the impression that it had something to do with the inner/ outer edge and that it does not fold over like most skins. I've have some leeway, but I always try to replicate the original. A little later in the thread Steve Hamilton demonstrates using a tipping wheel on a Plymouth trunk lid. I believe that is a 1" 90* lip turned down and then a smaller hem turned 180*.
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Last edited by Reno; 01-13-2019 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 04-02-2019, 01:26 PM
metalman sweden metalman sweden is offline
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Hi there!
I have not been aboard for years but heard that you had some questions about the diffrent kind of ways to attach the skin to the innerstructure.

Most cars I have working with have a inner structure with just a lip who the skin is just wrapped around.

Some Italian cars from the 30s to 60s have another design at this detail.
They have a 90 degree bend all around the inner structure and also the skin have a 90 degree bend.
That means that the skin is just slight larger than the innerstructure and slide over it, then it is spotwelded together, no fold over or wrap is done.

Good or bad? Well... good is that IF the inner structure fits perfect in the opening the gap will be perfect too!
Bad is there are VERY limited chances to adjust the unit to fit perfect if the gap is a bit off.

At " normal" doors, hoods and so on it is pretty easy to adjust the gap with hammer and dolly work, both plus and minus if needed.

Hope you understand my way to try to explain.
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Old 04-02-2019, 02:38 PM
Reno Reno is offline
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Thanks for the clarification Per. I can see where that method would have to be very accurate. Since I'm just making a model I will probably use the conventional method.
Your photo documentation has been a big help since I am doing this from a 1/25 scale model and photographs. Your shots of the inner trunk are the only ones I have ever seen from a steel car. Thanks again.
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