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  #1031  
Old 07-23-2019, 06:22 PM
onya onya is offline
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30.5 for me to Mate.
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  #1032  
Old 07-24-2019, 04:49 AM
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Thanks for your vote Leigh.
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  #1033  
Old 07-25-2019, 07:13 PM
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Now why I have been looking at choosing my tyre size is that I have always wanted to put my spare under the bed on a cable winch like the donor had. But there is not enough length between the cross members and have the centrally mounted SRT Corsa exhaust in the way as well. Was pretty amazing that the whole exhaust bolted in in the first place, but thinking I might run the resonators wider apart under the chassis rails.
Should I cross right over left so total length will be the same on each side? Otherwise the left has crossed the chassis twice adding extra length and theoretically have slightly more resistance than the right.


If I go for the 30.5" tall tyres, I could just cut out the rear cross member and turn it around so it is not recessed between the chassis rails. That would give me access to the towbar again too!


Been toying with the idea of using a profile that kicks up vertically like the Willys Army trailers.


Now I want to see if the proportions still work if I extend the bed to take the spare wheel. The stock bed length is 2030mm-80" but has lost 175mm-7" due to the cab extension, so gaining some back would be great. I don't want an unbalanced look either that you often get after a cab extension.


This is with the bed long enough to take either sized spare wheel and 65mm-2.5" further behind the axle centreline than stock. The sides are also 3" higher than stock, now level with the top of the ribs running across the back of the cab rather than finishing under them.


The Willys beds have a separate piece under the side which is part of the sub frame. I have it next to the chassis rails here which would be great if I can do this as wouldn't have to raise the floor then. This is because I have raised the chassis rails 100mm-4" to get the stock up travel from the donor suspension.


Added the frame skirts. Starting to look a bit 'bulky'


Thought maybe the stake pockets will help break up the bulkiness of it. This is with three stake pockets the same as the stock Willys bed.


Maybe a step in front of the wheel guard helps like on the pre 53 models?


Raised the step so level with the bottom of the cab rather than under it like stock.


Removed the vertical piece of the bed giving the same height and profile of a stock bed. This will match the stock tailgate I have better and can use pre 53 Chev sides which are available here in Australia and closely match the originals. Will just have to modify them to suit the length.


Last try is cutting 75mm-3" out of the height, but putting the vertical section back in. So overall height is the same as the last shot finishing under the ribs. I also rounded the end of the frame skirt. Least if I do the mock up with cardboard, it costs nothing. Which version looks best and can I get away with the extra bed length to fit the spare in underneath? I will also be lengthening the top of the rear guards to better match the front, so the bed will look a bit shorter too after doing that. Either version will also have the roll along the top edge.


Stock Willys bed for reference.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 07-25-2019 at 11:44 PM.
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  #1034  
Old 07-25-2019, 08:30 PM
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You have shown 3 vertical pieces. Try it with 4 or do a double element at the rear most tailgate junction. There are some visual tricks you can do if you play with your mockup further that will hide horizontal length and still look "factory".
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  #1035  
Old 07-25-2019, 11:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superleggera View Post
You have shown 3 vertical pieces. Try it with 4 or do a double element at the rear most tailgate junction. There are some visual tricks you can do if you play with your mockup further that will hide horizontal length and still look "factory".
Might even increase the depth of the rear skirt to visually shorten the rear.
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  #1036  
Old 07-26-2019, 04:36 AM
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Opinions: (worth what you paid)

I like the length. Looks proportional.

The step helps it look better. Just needs to blend into the fender same as the front does. Lop off the back of the fender to match.

I don't like the vertical box part. Probably because I've never seen a box like that.
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  #1037  
Old 07-26-2019, 08:04 AM
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Hi Marcus
I see the the front wing goes under the cab. What do you think about extending that to the back of the cab and lower the rear step so that the match?
More like a running board, would also stop rocks from banging off the rear wing.

I like the bed top below the ribs on the cab.
Many cars have a spare tire that is smaller, both in diameter and width.

Maybe even no spare tire for local use, just take it along for longer trips.

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  #1038  
Old 07-26-2019, 11:24 AM
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Looking at the small running board on the front fender, it makes me wonder if one could incorporate that styling into the rear fender itself (front and rear edges perhaps)?? It would look "factory". Question is how to integrate the vertical post into the front edge of the fender extension itself? It is a utilitarian pickup so they don't have to be at the same height as the front fender ones. Just food for thought...

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  #1039  
Old 07-27-2019, 06:42 AM
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Great suggestions guys. Thank you Mark for the cut and paste of the front running board on the back as well. Looks much better than I thought it would.

One of my main worries since planning this build was how do you protect from the elements, and from sticky fingers nicking your stuff, things in the back? I thought a hard cover would be the best solution, but you lose a lot of height with the head board and tailgate only being as high as the vertical part of the sides. My fridge won't fit when I am camping unless I switch to a draw type one. A taller box type bed, still finishing under the 3 ribs, without the angle part making it wider near the top would be more practical.



Like the ones used on the D100 stepside Dodges. Still have the rolled edge along the sides. I wouldn't do the heavy pressed impressions though and could use 54 Chevy sides and just lift them up more. Which ever way I go I would still use the Willys rear guards to match the front. Not sure how it would look on the Willys though?



Same truck from a different angle and one of the reasons I don't like a too short box either.

Could also build a custom metal trunk to put inside the bed and vent it to hold the fridge and things? Maybe a surplus military crate?
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  #1040  
Old 07-28-2019, 04:30 AM
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Well I have been taking suggestions on board and looked at Marks photoshop and thought I will look closer at that. Thanks to all the have been helping with ideas. So here I have the rear guard blend into the step like it does on the front and added a rear one as well. Here the front part is level with the bottom of the cab and the rear under the frame skirt I had before.


I left the rear as is and ran the front one under the cab.
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