#241
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I disassembled my smallest anvil and I'll take it to the machine shop tomorrow to have the reliefs cut. I normally would just make a new one for specific purposes but I don't want to wait till I can find the material and have the work done. Also, I'm going to have a full inch in the center of the wheel that will not be altered. It will still function as it was intended to so it won't be any less effective than it was in its original shape.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#242
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Makes perfect sense to me Jack. Sometimes, trial and error is the best coarse. There's a cool video on youtube of Geoff Moss that Bill Longyard shot trying to explain how he did a certain panel that looked simple also.
https://youtu.be/UGh84RiFuSA https://youtu.be/XDpY0mGN1sU The whole set of videos Bill has on youtube is very interesting. A lot of different ways to produce body panels by a lot of different people. Very interesting to follow your thread, Frank
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Frank de Kleuver |
#243
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I was hoping to get my lower anvil back yesterday but it's not done yet so I started putting some crown in the left and right panels. I think I have enough there to go to the next step; the lower body line. I can't do that without the anvil so I wanted to take care of a couple high spots on the rear deck that have been bugging me. I used a shrinking disc to knock them down but I'm still having trouble with galling. I don't know how to avoid that. Sometimes it happens, sometimes not. I haven't figured out why. The disc I'm using now is fairly new. My old one worked well but was getting worn and I didn't trust it anymore. I had a crack starting from the bolt hole. It was only about 1/4" long but I don't want to be anywhere near one of these discs when they let go..
I roughed up the new disc with some 80 grit, tried a spray of soapy water before shrinking, tried some graphite dry lube, no luck. Maybe it just needs to be ""seasoned". I don't remember having to do anything when the old one was new but that was about 15 years ago.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#244
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Hi Jack,
I too have an old shrinking disc (7"). I purchased a 5" and have never been able to stop it from galling. I think there is a difference in alloy. For what it's worth the best thing I found for the least amount of galling was Murphy's Oil Soap. It's commonly used for cleaning wooden furniture and is readily available in most grocery stores cleaning section. I just use a torch now instead of the disc. Very nice job on the Caddy. Your documentation of the build is top notch too.
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Jim Russell |
#245
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Thanks for the info, Jim I'll try the Murphy's. If I still have trouble I have a Henrob that can lay down a cherry spot the size of a pencil eraser. I'll have to revert back to the old school method. Also, I got the disc from Wray, I'm pretty sure he uses 304.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#246
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I was having dinner with Wray, taking my break from the new project (I'll post soon) I just started in Wray's shop when I read this. He says call him!
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Ira Scratch Building Bugatti Atlantic 57SC with BMW S65 |
#247
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I finally got my lower anvil back so I can get back to work now. They did a good job and it works well. I can roll a small radius to about 90 degrees with it. I started on the lower body line with the Pu wheel.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. Last edited by Jack 1957; 01-30-2016 at 09:04 PM. |
#248
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I started on the right rear deck panel by rolling in the lower body line. My thoughts were that basically, what I'm doing is tipping a very large flange. I knew that since the body line was curved it would draw the panel upward as the bend is put in. Typically I would then stretch the flange to bring the adjacent surface back down where it belongs. That would require a lot of stretching in this case and once the second body line is in, I would have to shrink the same area that I just stretched. Way too much abuse. What I was hoping I could do is stretch only the area between the two body lines. (area B) Right now the lower half of the panel is flat and it needs to be curved.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. Last edited by Jack 1957; 01-30-2016 at 09:16 PM. |
#249
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I was hoping that I could shim my lower anvil and try to stretch area B enough to restore the curve in the lower area. It started to work but it was taking an awful lot of pressure and not producing the results I needed. It did bring the lower surface flat but it didn't seem to want to go much further than that. I don't have the equipment I need to do this. Some custom dies in a power hammer would probably do the job. Anyway, after messing around and scratching my head for a couple hours I just decided to cut it and make them in two pieces before I destroyed them and had to start all over again.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#250
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First, I tipped the flange on the upper panel and finished rolling the radius for the upper body line. Then, with the shrinker and stretcher, I adjusted the curve until it fit perfectly on the buck. So much easier in two pieces.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
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