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Rob 1950 Cadillac 1956 Cadillac Looking to build my own car from scratch |
#12
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Also, I'm working with 18 gauge steel - I know aluminum will work harden and need annealing but I'm not aware of this issue with mild steel. Here I got it to sit finally without any clamps holding it. IMG_20181117_161833277.jpg
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Rob 1950 Cadillac 1956 Cadillac Looking to build my own car from scratch Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 11-18-2018 at 08:51 AM. |
#13
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Looking good! Do have any way to blend/ planish the walnuts? A post dolly or cheap air powered planishing hammer? Running the lumpy/ walnuts through an English wheel can be kind hap-hazard. Watch those fingers.
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Mike |
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You are correct John. Sorry for making the assumption.
Shape is the stretching (thinning) or shrinking (thickening) of the sheet metal. By stretching, you are increasing the surface area and by shrinking, you are decreasing the surface area. Most panels have both types of shape put into them. Form is the bending of the panel without changing the surface area. When making a panel, concern yourself with the shape not the form. Make a paper pattern or flexible shape pattern and use that as your guide for how much shape and where. The pattern has no regard for form. If you match the shape in the pattern, bending the panel (forming) will yield the desired result of a finished panel. A common problem for many people when making a panel is that they think that the panel should progressively look like the finished product as they are wheeling or hammering. Not so. As long as the shape is correct, the panel's form can be manipulated at the end. The only exception is in making a reverse curve where the shape is generally creating the bulk of the form at the same time. By manipulating the form, you can use lower crown anvils or planishing dies to transition and smooth the panel. Adding form is also important in shrinking. By arching a panel, it removes the load on the shrink allowing more material to be gathered. I hope that was a helpful explanation.
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Rick |
#15
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I've noticed that basically everytime I finish hammering out the middle for stretch, the overall form has folded closer, so I lay it on the ground and push the edges outward. Easily the biggest challenge of this piece for me is the left and right side (when looking straight at the panel) not wanting to curve downward onto the buck. I have continued to hammer and stretch the center upward so these sides have clearance and can come downward when resting on the buck. Still a challenge though. I've stretched the middle so much that when looking inside it's barely touching the stations, and it's mainly the backbone causing that teeter left and right. I've hammered out the middle to get out of the way but it's hard to achieve the stretch I need along that edge. Getting there little by little.
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Rob 1950 Cadillac 1956 Cadillac Looking to build my own car from scratch |
#16
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It's better. All my photos were examples of a bad start. Poor neckline. Try to make a smaller sample. He will show you the possibilities of shaping. Try, test, test. Think and think. Less power, more understanding of the issues. I have strong machines, they are very helpful. Without the right procedure, I can not use it. The material prevents you and you have to understand it. Use paper for shaping, it's the same.
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Jaroslav |
#17
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Thanks I don't yet, that's on the list. So far I've just wheeled them out but yeah, it'd be nice to be able to do a little plannishing before driving on the Rocky road!
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Rob 1950 Cadillac 1956 Cadillac Looking to build my own car from scratch |
#18
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I suggest tuck shrinking the ends. Do not try to get all of the shape with stretching. As a quick impression from the picture, I would say that a panel with that much shape should be in the area of 50 / 50 (shrink / stretch).
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Rick |
#19
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As Rick says. Your case is shrinking. The snapshot is a shrink according to the drawn line and the bend of the arc that happens automatically. The other two images are after using EW. So you already know the direction ? Bend the whole shape, do not worry. If you made a small pieces is a terrible job. The whole shape shows you the way, but it must remain soft. A larger hammer is a prehistoric method like "Flinstone". All is from stone. Bam bam.
DSC09718.jpg DSC09720.jpg DSC09719.jpg
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Jaroslav Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 11-18-2018 at 08:57 AM. |
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Rob ...this might help you
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rB2BDEXfd7Q&t=3s Peter PS the blocking hammer that you are using it's not heavy enough to put some dissent tuks or to create enough stretch on the panel .. and to tell you the truth I think that hammer you are using is only good for braking real walnuts ...also when looking at your first pics (where the piece you are making is sitting on the buck) I can see that there is not enough shrinking on the hidden side of the picture,..... if you look closely you can tell by the two sides ,(the two going down on the buck)are still going straight ahead meaning....... re block the center and shrink the s*it on the hidden side ...as shown on the video do not shrink the edge where the panels are going to be welded
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P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 11-18-2018 at 06:03 AM. |
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