#11
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Did you see the dvd of Ronn Covell (building gas tanks) or the dvd of David Gardnier metalshapingzone.....
Regards Wesley |
#12
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I forgot to mention I like your buck.
Like AllyBill mentioned use 1100 X.050 to make your first tank outer portion. Learn what steps are necessary to get the tank you are after (even the welding and finishing). By doing that you will find out what tools are required and what tools you need to add to arsenal. Once you are satisfied with your skills, then make your final piece using 14ag. for the inside and no less than 16ga. for the outer. If it were a Harley I'd say 14ga. all the way. Jere
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Jere Kirkpatrick Valley Forge & Welding HEN-ROB Torch Dealer. Teaching The Fundamentals of Metal Shaping www.jerekirkpatrick.com All tools are a hammer except the chisel.....That's a screwdriver. |
#13
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Plan of attack
Thanks for encouragement and advice. Here's the piece I'm starting on outlined in red. I taped on paper and trimmed to roughly the red line. Then add about 1/2 inch all around the perimeter to make pattern for metal. I have a piece of 20 g steel right now just to practice.
My approach is the blue area I think should be neither shrunk or stretched. The area to either side need to be stretched in the long directions to make sort of reverse curve panel and the yellow area need shrinking on the edges to make the forward dome. I've also seen the approach where you'd shrink the blue are and stretch outside of it but I wonder if that's necessary? Thoughts, suggestions? Capture1.JPG
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Jeff |
#14
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Jeff,
Mock it up in cardboard as these two shapes and you'll find you need very little shape around the edges to get it to lie right. Once it's welded and behaving as one you ought to be able to finish it by hand quite easily with very basic tools. Motorcycle Tank Buck Shapes.jpg Will
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Here to learn. William Pointer |
#15
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Aluminum vs steel
What factors do you consider in deciding whether to use aluminum or steel for a tank like this?
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Jeff |
#16
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Quote:
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Jeff |
#17
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Quote:
Soft aluminium can be worked by hand yet have lots of strength once you give it shape but welding and shrinking it is a little more interesting. It just depends what you are comfortable with because it will look just the same once you have painted it. Will
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Here to learn. William Pointer |
#18
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So far
Practicing in 20 g steel because I had it laying around. I can't quite get the belly to suck up to the buck like I want it to, it's still almost an inch away where most other areas it's within 1/2 inch. I followed plan I outlined above, or at least tried to. It seems close but it's already really thin on the bottom edge. The middle 4 inches is removed from the buck so it looks skinny right now.
IMG_0637.jpg
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Jeff |
#19
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That's quite a big ask of a single piece of 20swg if you've not made that shape before. It will be stretched thin and getting hard now but it's also taught you a bit about the material.
Try it in two pieces. Get the first one how you want it then drill some small holes in it and screw it to the buck (you can weld them up later) then make the second piece fit neatly and do the same, then weld the parts together. Make them tight rather than baggy so that the weld shrinkage tightens them further then you can stretch with hammer and dolly out to the intended shape. Will Edited.JPG
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Here to learn. William Pointer |
#20
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Quote:
This is a great website, like a virtual classroom.
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Jeff |
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