#11
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Quote:
Will
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Here to learn. William Pointer |
#12
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This is where it's to bulbus (if that's the right word)
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Jason |
#13
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Wow that's great. Good bunch of guys here on this forum thanks everyone.
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Jason |
#14
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I presume that where you have N6 drawn on your panel is where you are going to turn the edge inwards on the wheel arch??
If so there is no need of shrinking .....if you re block that area all the way around you will find that you will keep you return and at the same time the edge will start to turn inwards (where it need to go) if you do this right you will find very little shrinking to be done over all, simply because while you are blocking in the area marked as 6 the edge below will shrink on it's own. As a fact....you will need to stretch the center of the wheel arch lip. So here how to do this... 1 block (with a small blocking hammer area 6 2 the lip will start to turn 3 do this all the way around 4 when the edge is half way around...just hit the edge down without stretching it, from about 9 o'clock down to 6 o'clock and the same on the other side BUT!..... from about 9 o'clock upwards through 10/11 12 /1/ and 2 stretch that edge while you taking it over I hope this clear for you... but this is the best I can do over the net and please let us know how you go Peter
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P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM |
#15
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Clear as Mud, Peter.
You forgot to mention a "Beer O Clock"
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John EK Holden V8 |
#16
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Yea..... but only in Summer and then if you drink too much you do not know where O'clock is
Peter
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P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM |
#17
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The dolly/anvil can be any curved hard surface. For bench work I support a track dolly with a shotbag and hammer on that. P1170730 cross pein stretch.jpg The back side of the work looks like this, and shows the pattern, orientation, and location of the blows. P1170730cross pein stretch_back.jpg For shrinking the reverse area in the center of your fender, I just heat a spot and drive it down with 4 or 5 swats with the hammer - slightly rounded face is helpful. P1170732hot shrink_reverse.jpg I heated and shrunk several spots, one after the other, but spaced them a spot apart on the first pass. Then I come back and hot-shrink the gaps. This technique works best when heating to dull red in dim light, and having a proud spot to drive down. In this way you are using the geometry of the metal to support the shrink - without any tool underneath supporting the work. I never quench my hot-shrinks on steel. It makes the steel hard - and metallurgists and long personal testing agree with this, despite old traditions and misinformation persisting to the contrary. I think Jerry Gulley teaches "reverse-shrinking" and has been a proponent of the method for a long time, now. It works if you follow the procedure.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#18
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So all of the advice has helped tremendously. THe panel is sitting even better and it's looking really good! I must say i am impressed
Anyways I have lots to learn and here are some more of those questions: The panel sits in most areas however there are some zones that need work. Let's call the fender a clock and therefor top dead center would be 12, then moving clockwise: 1,2,3,4 etc. Around 1-2 o'clock it's not sitting right on the buck, it's like it need more concave but at the same time the entire fender needs to wrap around the buck longitudinally (in the long direction if that makes sense) It's not sitting on the last 3 o'clock station either. If it sits flat there then it raises on the other side at 12. I shrunk down the high parts that I marked "better" in the pics so it's getting close. WHat should I do from here? I'm thinking continue stretching around the top edge of 1,2,3 o'clock to get the material to lay on the concave zone of the buck and continue hammering on a dolly around 1 to 3 in the flat zone between rads to help the main long shape wrap around more: pics to better explain.
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Jason |
#19
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You have made a lot of progress. The panel appears to be quite stressed. As a panel is worked (yours looks to have been worked a lot and severely in spots), it acquires localized stresses. For example, the torch shrinking pulls metal into a spot but a zone around it is in tension.
You need to do a wash-over in the wheel to relax the panel. Set your wheel tension so only slight pressure is on the panel. Too little pressure is better than too much. Then wheel the entire panel with the goal being to even out the metal stresses. When the panel is relaxed it should feel a bit floppy, not stiff. As a panel is shaped, the shaping process changes the thickness of the metal. Where the panel is shrunk the metal thickens; when stretched it thins. The thickness differences will be very slight. In a smooth and relaxed curved section the variation in thickness will be a smooth transition from thick to thin. In a lumpy section or stressed panel the thickness variations will be erratic. The wash-over wheeling will move the metal around enough to smooth the transitions without changing the shape. Wash-over also relaxes the work hardening that occurs in the metal. In your case it may well allow those trouble spots to lay down and match your buck.
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Richard K Last edited by Richard K; 05-19-2016 at 04:18 PM. |
#20
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Jason...
might I ask( ) why you put heat on this particular reverse?? Peter
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P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM |
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