Help with tig

[Z5Roadster]

Been playing with my tig welder.

Kempi Super 150 Kempex. (lift off start)

I have had it for about 6/7 yrs bought it S/H and the seller said he had never used it on tig but thought it worked OK. Took it down the local welding shop to get them to check it out, the pedal wouldn't work but that may be because its not Kempi and may not be configured to suit.

Anyway I not able to maintain the tungston point it is colored Red 2.4 dia. with a 1d point ground away from the tip, I am welding 1/8 mild st. the amp setting is 6/approx 65amp, pure argon with a flow rate of 8.

I get bubbling on the underside of the material, the puddle is being pushed forward, but the tungston blows away to a sphere after about 4".

Hope some one can help, thanks

[HEATNBEAT]

you said 1/8 mild steel. Is it hot roll or cold roll?
hot roll will cause bubbles

[Z5Roadster]

Hi Rick.

Your right its hot rolled, hope it helps.

Thanks

[Clayton]

Tom is this an acdc machine? 65amps isn't enough power to blow away a 2.4 tungsten. If it is an acdc tig you're probably running it on ac which explains the balled up end.

[Dutch Comstock]

It does sound like you are not set up on the correct DC setting on your Tig. For 1/8th inch you should also ave aproximately 100 amps power. Duch

[Crew Chief]

Your machine should be set on DC- and set your argon flow at about 10-12 CFH. I set mine at 130 amps for 1/8", hit it to start the puddle and then let off to maintain. I also use 1/16" filler.

Burning the tungsten and the bubbling sounds like you either don't have any or not enough gas flow, or your machine is set on AC. You are using 100% Argon aren't you?

Good luck.

[Overkill]

The calculator is not specific to Miller welders, so you might find it helpful, I do. You set the material type, thickness, and it tells you what polarity to run, the tungsten size and the amperage. For those of us that are occasional welders, its very helpful, and cheap. See:

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/tools/#calculators

John

[TheRodDoc]

Also your torch should be connected to the negitive terminal. Straight polarity. In this connection the current flows from the torch to the work.

Reverse polarity, torch connected to positive terminal, or reverse polarity, the current flows from the work to the torch. In this mode it will heat the tungsten faster and melt it quickly at lower current.

And DC current not AC.

[Z5Roadster]

Thanks for all your comments.

This is a basic welder, I do not have an AC/DC switch, so the unit defaults to DC only.

The guy at the shop told me I wouldn’t be able to weld ally because there’s no AC setting.

Give me an hr. and I’ll throw up a pic of the control panel.

From what has been said my flow meter may be set a bit mean and also I’m down on amps.

I am using Pure Argon.

The polarity is opposite to what I use for stick welding.

The Miller setting guide is a must have for me.

What I didn’t say was there is an amount of splatter on the ceramic shield.

How far out should the tungsten from the front of the shield?

Once I have the arc running what should the arc length be. ?

With the time zone difference I should be able to post up the pics before most of you are up.

[Clayton]

Tom

you've got the polarity wrong as others have said. You need DCEN which is electrode negative, so earth is positive. Electrode stick out should be 1 - 3 diameters (of tungsten). Sounds to me like you need to study the tutorials on the Miller website, tons of good info there.