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  #21  
Old 08-20-2015, 10:59 PM
SATAUS SATAUS is offline
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Hey Bob are they 3D printed heads on the hammer?



Quote:
Originally Posted by bobadame View Post
These are a few of my "show and tells". These pieces are all put together with silicon bronze applied with a tig torch. The joint between the hammer head and the handle was massaged a bit with a Scotchbrite wheel just for pretty.

Attachment 33990

Attachment 33991

Attachment 33992

Attachment 33993
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  #22  
Old 08-20-2015, 11:23 PM
bobadame bobadame is offline
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No Status, they are lathe turned G-11 material. It's an epoxy glass fiber composite.
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  #23  
Old 08-21-2015, 05:53 AM
RockHillWill RockHillWill is offline
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Nice looking hammer .
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  #24  
Old 08-21-2015, 12:40 PM
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Thanks for the info Bob.

Jere
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  #25  
Old 08-21-2015, 12:57 PM
ed l ed l is offline
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jere i just noticed in one of the pictures your dillion torch has the small light weight hoses on it they flow enough gas so it doesnt impede the torch ?
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  #26  
Old 08-21-2015, 01:36 PM
JimRussell JimRussell is offline
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Hi Ed,

I have them on my Victor too. No problem with flow, although if I hook up my cutting torch or use a rosebud, I switch to standard hose. I never tried either with the light weight hose, so I can't comment on them with the light weight hose.
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  #27  
Old 08-21-2015, 01:48 PM
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Ed yes they flow more than enough. I have cut 1/2" thick steel at 17lbs ox pressure.

Look at the setup I have with the "Y's" coming off the gas saver. If I want to use the Victor for rose bud or cutting torch to heat treat something, or an isolated heat, I just turn one set of hoses off and open the other.

Either torch is ready to go with no fumbling around switching hoses.

I hope this answers your question.

Jere
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  #28  
Old 08-23-2015, 07:35 PM
weldtoride weldtoride is offline
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Default I used sil bronze for my wheel adusting wheel

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty Comstock View Post
... allowing me to bridge those gaps. For the artwork I was working on, structurally and aesthetically, the repair is plenty strong enough.

So, what are YOUR experiences using SiBr?
Took me awhile to get the third pic, but here it is. When I built my wheel, I wanted a wheel for the upper adjuster other than an old steering wheel or the popular go kart wheel, so I built my own wheel using a bending form left over from a FLW patio chair clone build.

I took two identical circles from 1/2" round bar stock, used one complete and cut the other into six equal chords:



This curvy wheel cried out for nice smooth fillet joins. I decided to join it with sil bronze and my Tig. I thought this way I would get real nice fillets on compound curve joints w/o coping and also quickly and easily:



In place:



I consider this application a cross between art and structure, and so far it has held up very well, as expected.

Thanks again Kerry, for so openly sharing your plans and experiences with wheel construction.
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Last edited by weldtoride; 08-23-2015 at 08:00 PM.
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  #29  
Old 08-26-2015, 07:09 AM
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Marty Comstock Marty Comstock is offline
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This is why I love this, all sorts of comments and I deas!

I tried the copper wire bit of Jere's, and compared it to SiBr. Ultimately I liked the SiBr better, I found I could put less wire in to seal the joint. If a large fillet were my goal, then I would go for the copper. Stripping the wire was a pain, I wanted to get the job done. The cost isn't bad, I think I pay 19 dollars a pound?

I joined dirty metal to dirty metal, and it turned out pretty darn ok.


2015-08-25 19.45.50.jpg

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  #30  
Old 08-26-2015, 08:46 AM
bobadame bobadame is offline
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Easy way to strip copper is to squeeze the strand through a bead roller.This crushes the insulation and the cu pretty much falls out.
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