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  #31  
Old 04-19-2012, 04:29 PM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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Rod Doc, how about the lowdown on the finer points of your technique of tig spot welding ? I actually can make a pretty good duplication of spot welds with my mig welder but if I don’t have to drill or punch holes that is only so much the better. Somehow I have gotten older and a bit lazy but not so thick headed that I’m not open to easier & faster ideas. THANKS as always ~ John Buchtenkirch
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  #32  
Old 04-19-2012, 06:30 PM
fred26t fred26t is offline
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Default Where and what your welding can make a difference.

If you are welding some where that has even the smallest breeze (outside or a old barn) most should forget the TIG. If you are welding "chrome molly steel" forget the MIG. Many racing organizations will give you the boot. NHRA won't even allow O/A welding on frames anymore (but the FAA allows it on airplanes?).
I agree on buying good machines, Lincoln, Miller, Hobart are great but HF is the wrong machine. Fred26T
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  #33  
Old 04-19-2012, 09:39 PM
TheRodDoc TheRodDoc is offline
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Those welds look pretty good John. Goes to show that with enough practice that what ever type of welding you choose can be done well if it can be done at all. And as Fred just said all types have some limitations but I think for all around work on autos the TIG is the most versatile.

As far as making spotwelds with the TIG goes, it's pretty easy. With the two sheets clamped or held tight together, hold the tig torch vertical from the work with the tungsten point just above the work and push the pedal down. don't move the torch. watch for the top molten round puddle to slump down. As soon as it does, Stop. Your done. Works in any position.
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  #34  
Old 04-20-2012, 01:42 AM
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jhnarial jhnarial is offline
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I have done that before John on inner wheel wells, inside of door jams and other places that are normally spot welded on cars. Both with mig and tig but I only drilled through the top side of the flange. With not as nice of results as yours. Never tried it drilling or puncing through both sides.

Do you back it with copper

I also have not tried it with just burning through with a tig, if i can get that to work i'll be set, that cuts out a step.
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  #35  
Old 04-22-2012, 12:44 PM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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THANKS Rod Doc, for both the compliment and instructions on your welding. Many times once a person can weld he or she only needs a few pointers on different technique and an open mind plus some practice time to improve. I learned how to tig tack weld from Fay Butler over the phone. Your instructions & efforts are much appreciated.

Johnny, Those plug welds were only drilled / punched on the top piece of sheet. The technique is to turn up the mig to 2 or 4 gauges higher than the sheet being welded, then swing a quick circle to flood the hole with molten metal. It happens so fast it’s more of a timing technique than an actual welding skill where you are watching a bead flow. It just takes some practice on similar thickness sheets to get the timing down. It works best when welding on top, vertical welds cause the puddle to flow to the bottom. The hole drilled thru both sheets is just to hang it on the wall , sorry for the confusion. ~ John Buchtenkirch
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  #36  
Old 04-22-2012, 01:09 PM
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Ok

I seen the one were it was drilled through both pieces
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  #37  
Old 04-22-2012, 03:18 PM
Bob Bob is offline
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John,

Do you get the issue of the lower sheet expanding away from the top sheet? I've done those rosette welds before but had to clamp the sheets real close to the hole to keep the two together when I poured the heat to it. But I never turned the heat up like you suggest. And it didn't matter what type of welding I was doing.
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  #38  
Old 04-23-2012, 12:09 AM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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Bob, yes, I always clamp the metal with vise-grips or drill tap screws. The idea is to leave the plug weld slightly sunken so it looks like a spot weld and also to absolutely minimize the grinding, that is why I use the technique described. Look at the one on the upper right hand corner that I just kissed with the grinder for a short moment. I have respiratory & sinus problems so any grinding I can eliminate is a big plus. Other advantages are less abrasive costs, less time spent on the job and less time cleaning the shop. At this point in my life I try to work smarter, not harder. Sometimes it actually works out that way for me . ~ John Buchtenkirch
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  #39  
Old 04-24-2012, 03:23 PM
Jim Moser Jim Moser is offline
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I am a part time instructor in the Street Rod and Collision/Refinishing classes at WyoTech in West Sacramento, Ca. In addition to teaching sheet metal shaping in the Street Rod class, we instruct the students in Oxy/Acet, MIG, (mostly stitch welds as it results in a smaller heat affect zone) and TIG welding on .035 (20ga) steel and .050 3003 H14 aluminum. All of these processes work well on sheet metal although some require more practice. My preference is TIG using ER70S-6 or Silicon Bronze, which is nice as it requires less heat.

I have been suggesting that the school at least demonstrate Oxygen/Hydrogen welding of Aluminum, but so far we aren't doing it.

The type of equipment you go with may depend on your budget, but don't buy cheap products.... you will end up regretting it. I would also suggest you do a lot of practicing on scrap material.... Jim
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  #40  
Old 04-25-2012, 07:42 AM
esoda esoda is offline
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Eastwood just came out with a spot weld kit for your MIG or you can use just the pliers if you want to use your TIG. What makes this kit nice is the pliers since they clamp your two pieces as close as physically possible without welding the pliers to the work piece.

http://www.eastwood.com/spot-weld-kit.html

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