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Some good info on what not to use Kelly. For coating and bonding I always use West System epoxy and their fillers. It is slower but predictable.
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Tim Freeman |
#12
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The suggestions forwarded by Mark G and Kelly are spot on.
Polyester resins and lacquer (volatile) solvents etc. make short work of styrenes. I also work with this stuff in the film industry and we overcoat the rough forms with epoxy resin (and glass mat if strength is required). You can then apply Bondo to your heart's content to fill as needed. The expanding polyurethane wood glue (Gorilla and others) is excellent and renders a decent, strong bond by creeping into the voids between surfaces. There is also a specific polystyrene cement which is like contact glue and might be cheaper than other adhesive suggestions; ideal for assembling flat sheets. Lastly for a perfect finish on your form you can spray a high build 2-K epoxy filler-primer over the form, and easily sand it down to a superb finish. We call it "MS Primer" in these parts...
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Manny Remember that the best of men, are only men at best. |
#13
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Questions on building a styrofoam buck.
Has anyone tried "CASCO contact 3880", water based CC. Says it wont eat foam?
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John S. E _________________________________________________ Torque is nothing, unless you can get it to the road. |
#14
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I ended up using the super 77 adhesive. It did attack the foam a little bit but not as bad as I thought it would. I did a couple of samples with titebond wood glue and an adhesive tube I put in my caulk gun (can't remember the brand at the moment). They both took a long time to set up but had a good bond. I think both of them would require clamping or putting weights on them where the 3m spray wouldn't.
I do not like using the joint compound on the surface of the foam. It was easy to work with but it's just too fragile. Maybe I was adding too much at one time? I get very little time to work on my projects so I have to make it count. I will be knocking off what I can of it first. Then I'll paint it with latex paint and use glass reinforced bondo. I did this on a simple headlight bucket buck first. I have the MDF cut out for the grill shell buck but haven't added any foam yet. I'm going to wait until the grill buck is done and add bondo to both of them at the same time. 20190609_163954.jpg 20190609_170548.jpg 20190709_131247.jpg
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James Sheets. Last edited by galooph; 08-22-2019 at 03:25 AM. |
#15
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Quote:
https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/bos...113a3-29701-p/
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Kevin. |
#16
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Yes they are! They have a longer too if you're working with a thicker sheet of foam. I think they are around three inches in length and have a wavey cutting edge. I haven't used them yet so I can't offer up anything about how they work. The ones you posted work very well.
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James Sheets. |
#17
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Quote:
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Kevin. |
#18
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For foam,especially styrofoam ,you need 3M spray 78; not spray 77. It does not dissolve the foam . I believe 78 comes in a yellow can. Another thing you can do is use Roscoe FoamCoat in a thin layer (or thick if you like) over the foam. It is water based and can be thinned to a consistency of your choosing. I believe it can also be sanded. It can be top coated with other products as well, but the main thing is that it will not dissolve the foam . It is used extensively to make rock walls and things for displays,theme parks,etc. It runs about 65 bucks (US) a gallon, though. There is a new version made by another company that is dry powder and you mix yourself thats only $10 dollars, but I haven’t used it yet ( I will be soon though).
Hope this helps.
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Adam Hebb |
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